3spd to 4spd swap questions
#1
3spd to 4spd swap questions
I have a 1979 F100 2wd swb that has a 3spd toploader in it that I want to swap out for a 4spd toploader that I have and I was wanting to know if it was a an easy swap and what is involved, do I need to modify the driveshaft? And what else will need to be done? I’m in the process of gathering parts for this swap a Hurst shifter for this application is $690 “ouch” but I want to get this swap done to make my truck more enjoyable to drive and before I yank the 300i6 out and drop my 351c 4v motor in her. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks
#2
I have a 1979 F100 2wd swb that has a 3spd toploader in it that I want to swap out for a 4spd toploader that I have and I was wanting to know if it was a an easy swap and what is involved, do I need to modify the driveshaft? And what else will need to be done? I’m in the process of gathering parts for this swap a Hurst shifter for this application is $690 “ouch” but I want to get this swap done to make my truck more enjoyable to drive and before I yank the 300i6 out and drop my 351c 4v motor in her. Any advice would be appreciated and thanks
#4
The problem is with the shift lever, when installed in F100/350's, it's either partially or completely under the front seat.
You'll have to find an aftermarket shift lever and the rods that will work in your truck.
#5
There is a shifter available from David Kee it’s a custom made Husrt shifter and it’s pricey at $600 I was just looking at it and he makes tailhousings that will fit, I know the Ford 3.03 and the 4spd Toploader are related I just didn’t know if it’s a straight foward swap and what I’d need to gather before attempting it
#6
In my '65 Mustang, it was bolt in no mods as the 4 speed I bought was a Mustang spec and, of course, I was swapping out an OEM 303.
You will have to check the input length and clutch spline. Cross member mount you will see right away. Driveshaft spline is another question mark, but easily tested.
Is this something that has to be done in one sitting or can you take it apart and "prepare" the proper ingredients after inspection?
You will have to check the input length and clutch spline. Cross member mount you will see right away. Driveshaft spline is another question mark, but easily tested.
Is this something that has to be done in one sitting or can you take it apart and "prepare" the proper ingredients after inspection?
#7
Thank you for the response and no I can take all the time I need it’s not my daily driver it’s a project that I’m gonna turn into a weekend warrior I’m still trying to decide if I want to drop my AFR headed 351w roller block motor or my 351c 4v motor in it but I got this 4spd for and I would like to get it in so it’s more enjoyable to drive in the meantime I really hate the 3 on the tree
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#9
Dagenham 4 speed was also used in 1962/65 Falcon/Comet I-6's and 1963/64 Econolines (4 on the tree!).
#10
If your truck's 3.03 three speed is like mine, it is shorter than one from a passenger car, so you will need to shorten your intermediate driveshaft.
As long as your '68 Mustang four speed is for a 289-302, it should bolt right up to your truck's bell, although the input splines might be different on the Mustang transmission. It will also work with a 240/300, 351W, and the 351C.
And I believe that top-loader four speeds are of the 3.03 family of transmissions and are basically a three speed with an added gear. I think the 3.03 is the distance in inches from the main shaft to the counter shaft? Centerline to centerline.
As long as your '68 Mustang four speed is for a 289-302, it should bolt right up to your truck's bell, although the input splines might be different on the Mustang transmission. It will also work with a 240/300, 351W, and the 351C.
And I believe that top-loader four speeds are of the 3.03 family of transmissions and are basically a three speed with an added gear. I think the 3.03 is the distance in inches from the main shaft to the counter shaft? Centerline to centerline.
#11
#13
If your truck's 3.03 three speed is like mine, it is shorter than one from a passenger car, so you will need to shorten your intermediate driveshaft.
As long as your '68 Mustang four speed is for a 289-302, it should bolt right up to your truck's bell, although the input splines might be different on the Mustang transmission. It will also work with a 240/300, 351W, and the 351C.
And I believe that top-loader four speeds are of the 3.03 family of transmissions and are basically a three speed with an added gear. I think the 3.03 is the distance in inches from the main shaft to the counter shaft? Centerline to centerline.
As long as your '68 Mustang four speed is for a 289-302, it should bolt right up to your truck's bell, although the input splines might be different on the Mustang transmission. It will also work with a 240/300, 351W, and the 351C.
And I believe that top-loader four speeds are of the 3.03 family of transmissions and are basically a three speed with an added gear. I think the 3.03 is the distance in inches from the main shaft to the counter shaft? Centerline to centerline.
The later 4 speed OD is based on the top loader 4 speed, and the OD gear is where 3rd was, and the shift fork (or something) is reversed. Thus the grand canyon gap 2nd to 3rd in that trans.
Dimensions are identical by model for ease assembly and other design I reckon. Thus the many different tail shaft housings by model.
Numberdummy: I know that '65 would have had a T10 but the top loader fell into that slot just like the T10 I bought the first time. That baby popped out of gear, was "fixed", and then my "buddy" made the guy mad and I had a $300 paperweight. I couldn't find anyone who could fix it. Sold it for $98 with full "pops out of gear, I can't find parts or anyone to work on it, it won't bolt up to your six, and I never want to see it (or you) again" disclosures. The first top loader I bought did the same thing, but was happily exchanged and I had a good one after that. Don't buy the cheapest thing you can find. Ask me how I know.
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