Hydraulic Brake Switch
#1
Hydraulic Brake Switch
Although I converted to a dual master cylinder, I plumbed a line for a hydraulic brake switch. I tried using a mechanical switch but had difficulty engaging the brake pedal to operate the switch. I purchased a new ACDelco switch as the reputation of old was of quality.
After installation, I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck. I determined the leak was brake fluid under the position of the switch. All the hydraulic lines where fine. I finally determined the leak was coming from the plastic portion of the housing where the contact pins go. I did some research and found that others were having the same problem.
ACDelco has let me down. For some, this can be a big safety issue. I thought I would pass this along if you are in need of a new hydraulic brake switch.
After installation, I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck. I determined the leak was brake fluid under the position of the switch. All the hydraulic lines where fine. I finally determined the leak was coming from the plastic portion of the housing where the contact pins go. I did some research and found that others were having the same problem.
ACDelco has let me down. For some, this can be a big safety issue. I thought I would pass this along if you are in need of a new hydraulic brake switch.
#4
#5
I went thru a half dozen switches that either leaked or just didn’t work. I took a mechanical switch and with a little thought process and minor modifications it’s been working for a couple years now. I’ll try to get a pic and post it. Basically I just added an ‘L’ shaped bracket to the on/off lever with a couple screws.
#7
Sufficient hydraulic brake pressure is another issue. Painless sells a low-pressure switch for $18 (80174), a bit pricey. I do not know an alternative to a brake pedal operated mechanical switch but believe there may be other options. The concept is quite simple but the solution is dumbfounding.
I ordered a new switch. If the problem continues, I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.
I ordered a new switch. If the problem continues, I’ll have to go back to the drawing board.
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#9
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#12
I just replaced my pressure switch with an adjustable mechanical switch from ron francis. My pressure switch had gotten a short in it that caused the tail lights to be on all the time. Then it slowly lost sensitivity until it didnt work at all. With the mechanical switch, now the brake lights turn on as soon as I touch the pedal, and the tail lights do not go on by themselves.
#13
Join Date: Jul 1997
Location: Beautiful Hueytown Alabam
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like I said 3rd switch and its still leaking....so I decided to go e-lectrically. Bought two switches., one like CBeav shows above and a Keep-it-Clean version... Both work identically... and opposite of what I thought they should. They are spring loaded and in the 'resting position the switch is open... the brake lights are off.. As you move the lever the switch makes contact and the lights come on. To me that meant the switch had to be in front of the brake pedal so it could pull the lever. I mounted the switch to a 90 degree bracket and then screwed that bracket to the brake pedal framework under the dash.
Then for a couple of hours I tried 13,450 different combinations of springs, chains, wire, rods, brackets, combined with lots of expletives and a sore neck from laying under the dash. My Problem was that I couldn't get the switch to "on" itself where I wanted it too. Finally the brake circuit gods dropped a wrench on my head and I came up with the idea of using a turn buckle. WA- LAAA!!!. Infinitely adjustable, stable and strong. Now to 'unplumb' the hydraulic leaker, bend another tube to add an inch to the line and bleed again... oh, and reroute the switch wiring from under the cab to under the dash...
thought some of my hydraulically challenged brake switch buddies might like to see this fix. or at least laugh at my feeble attempts.
john
Then for a couple of hours I tried 13,450 different combinations of springs, chains, wire, rods, brackets, combined with lots of expletives and a sore neck from laying under the dash. My Problem was that I couldn't get the switch to "on" itself where I wanted it too. Finally the brake circuit gods dropped a wrench on my head and I came up with the idea of using a turn buckle. WA- LAAA!!!. Infinitely adjustable, stable and strong. Now to 'unplumb' the hydraulic leaker, bend another tube to add an inch to the line and bleed again... oh, and reroute the switch wiring from under the cab to under the dash...
thought some of my hydraulically challenged brake switch buddies might like to see this fix. or at least laugh at my feeble attempts.
john