Does anything on my truck need to be upgraded to tow a 8000# travel trailer?

I have the "tow package" and 3.31 gearing but no brake controller in the cab.

 

When you open the hood do you see a transmission cooler in front of the radiator? You probably do need a brake controller, 8000lbs is 8000lbs. Make sure everything is in good working order and you have the payload/rating for it.

 

I sure would want the brake controller. Which engine?

 

 

​​​​​​You didn't give us much info on your truck, so you'll need to look it up here.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/

 

Most states require a trailer brake above 3000-3500 lbs. The exact rule varies by state, but the general rule of thumb is that you will need a trailer brake controller above 3000 lbs. The transmission cooler would also be a necessity. Do you know the frontal area of your trailer?

 

Is the 8,000 lbs. the advertised dry weight or GVWR of the trailer? If dry weight, that number is useless. You'll need to look at the specs (you can find the sticker on the left side of the trailer toward the front) and get the GVWR to use for an estimated/max loaded weight. Use 12% of that number for an estimated loaded tongue weight (960 lbs. if the 8K is the actual loaded weight) and figure in 75 - 100 lbs. for a good weight distributing hitch. If all that plus passengers, fuel and anything in the truck bed comes in below your available payload, you'll be OK from a weight point of view. As others have mentioned, brakes are mandatory on that trailer so, if you don't have an IBC (integrated brake controller) on the truck, you'll need an add-on. The Tekonsha inertial controllers are good. "P" tires are also not the best for towing and, after a trip or two, you may want to upgrade the truck to LT tires if it doesn't already have them. Finally, as already stated, no transmission ever failed from over-cooling... they fail from overheating (quote courtesy of a field powerpack specialist for the M1 Abrams main battle tank and Bradley fighting vehicle).

Rob

 

GVWR is 7300 for the trailer.

My F150 has a radiator in front of the radiator.

The trailer is 96" wide x 10'2" tall.

 

If the front is "flat", that would yield about 80 square feet. I doubt that's the case, as many trailers have some rounded edges to reduce the drag a bit. Figure you are probably around 60 square feet flat plate area. That can be reduced a bit if you add a deflector to the truck to help the airflow go over the trailer.

 

Deflectors mounted on the truck cab have proven to be of no use with travel trailers which are so far back. They mostly end up generating extra turbulence in the bed area which can actually increase drag. (Based on the expertise of hundreds of Escapees full-timers with up to 50 years of towing experience per person.)

Rob

 

I should have been more specific. The deflectors I'm talking about mount over the bed, and extend the "bubble" that normally forms there.

 

 

What year is the truck? You got to give details, with a 3.31 axle you are limited. Also that truck isn't equipped with the max tow package but rather just a receiver option. Don't assume you have the tow package, the 3.31 and no brake controller is a sure sign you don't.

 

 

What's the wheel base? Is it 4x4? I will never understand why dealerships order the options separately instead of getting the max tow as one line item which gives you full abilities. The way that truck was ordered actually cost more than ordering max tow equipped and still gives the lowest tow rating. Also what is the payload sticker on the door pillar showing for capacity?