Just got my new / old 1971 F250 pickup this past Tuesday. She has a 300 4.9L motor with a C6 trans. Both have 600 miles on them since rebuild. Motor is 30 over with Headman headers and a Holley 350 two barrel with a 2 to 1 adapter on a large carb port 300 intake.



Lots of room for improvement but she run real nice like it is setup. California rust free truck that has been out this way all of it's life.

I chipped in $5200 for her, seemed like a fair price for the condition it was in. What say out there?

A few pictures of the truck.

 

Very nice, congratulations! I paid about $1K more a couple of months ago for a similar condition F250, but it was a 4x4 4 speed with Camper Special mirrors. I am no expert by any means, but I think you did good!

Got any interior shots? Also, are those the original 16 1/2 inch wheels?

 

Florida Chris ---- Thanks for the nice words. The seat needs to be recovered and the foam support needs to be re-done. Maybe an early X-mas present.

Not sure if the wheels are the original 16.5 inchers. I will check, but I think they are.

The truck has full OEM gauge set, (Amp - Water Temp -- Oil Pressure -- Fuel).
Currently the Fuel & Water Temp gauge work correctly, but the Amp & Oil Pressure do not.
I am doing some checking this weekend to see if the oil pressure sender needs replacing.
I may need to find an Amp gauge to replace mine, got to do a little more testing.

 

Mine has the gauges as well. When I first got it I also thought my amp gauge didn't work. Then I realized that the scale calibration is just really wide. It takes big changes in current (plus or minus) to register anything. Once I "calibrated" my eyes to look for very small movements in the needle I realized the amp gauge did indeed move and work.

Try this; turn the lights on hi beam and let them sit two or three minutes. Then start your truck and see if the charge gauge doesn't show a charge spike for a few seconds right after you start her up.

 

Common problem with those gauges not showing little to none movement. .
The back side of the dash cluster has a little voltage regular size is about 3/4X1.5" .
That needs replacing. There about $20+

Orich

 

That is great to know. Thanks Orich, I will have to look into getting the voltage regulator.
I don't want to hijack old28's thread, but quick question; does the voltage regulator only impact the amp gauge? My other three gauges all read and work normally.

 

Florida Chris --- No problem with the tread, it is posted so all of us can get the information we need, keep asking!

orich --- Thanks for the information on the small voltage regulator. Do you think NAPA will have them? If not where?
Also if I pull the full gauge section loose is it mounted on the back side?

 

The Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator changes, based on the year of the truck (for example, 1970 is year-specific and doesn't interchange with other years).
Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator is mounted on the back of the Instrument Cluster.
There may be a radio noise suppression choke plugged into it - if so, swap the noise choke over when you replace the Constant Voltage Regulator.
NAPA isn't likely to carry these. LMC has them, but they're usually cheaper elsewhere.

 

If 2 of the 3 gauges, oil / temp / fuel, work right then the gauge cluster regulator is working. You only have 1 of the 3 gauges not working and I (think) posted how to check if gauge or sender for them.

If I did not post how to test take the wire off the sender of gauge not working and ground it, turn on key and if wiring & gauge is good the gauge should move replace the sender.
You can also use a test light on the wire and again if all is good but the sender the light should blink.

If you find grounding the wire and no movement or no blinking test light if you want to test the gauge, pull it from the cluster.
Using a 1.5 volt batt to go across the gauge studs and if the gauge is good it should move.
Dave ----

 

FuzzFace2 --- Thanks Dave for the additional testing information. Will try testing during the week. I'll post results.

Thipdar --- Other places to look for a better price than LMC?

 

Check for the usual suspects under "Parts Vendors & Resources" on this page: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ilation-2.html

(With a tip 'o the hat to HIO Silver for putting that list together)

 

As you can see, I have only circled one but the other are in the same place but look different.
ND= Bill a X ford counter man can give to the correct P/N for the one you'll need.
Or Jeff=King 2 can also...

My FUEL was the Gauge that worked correctly.
At the time did not know about the little gauge voltage regular so install manual water an amp gauge..
they worked for me for over 20 yrs until built my own dash cluster gauge setup.



Orich

 

For 1970 trucks with gauges:
The Instrument Cluster Constant Voltage Regulator provides regulated voltage, via Wire #60, to the Temperature Indicator, then, via Wire #60A, to the Fuel Level Indicator, then, via Wire # 60B, to the Oil Pressure Indicator.
Wire #60 and the wires dependent on it are all traces on the flexible plastic circuit board.
If the ICCVR isn't working, then none of these three indicators can work.
All three of these indicators are provided with voltage, and sense their various values by variably shorting to ground, all on the 'downstream' side of the gauges.
These gauges can be turned "full on" by disconnecting the associated sensor and shorting the signal wire to ground; this bypasses the sender and fakes a signal to the indicator.

The Charge Indicator/ammeter is on a separate circuit, one that is not voltage driven. The Charge Indicator measures current.
If it isn't working, there's a break in wire # 654 or #655 (or possibly both), could be one of the copper traces on the flexible circuit board, problem at the Instrument Cluster Connector, either of the 4-pin connectors that these wires go through, or at the place where they attach under the hood. Also, if all of those check out good, there is the possibility that the gauge itself has died.

Your road map for these circuits is available here: 1970 wiring diagram for gauges

 

My 1971 F250 with a 300 4.9L inline 6 has a FL-299A motorcraft oil filter currently on it. That filter is bigger (more oil volume) than the Standard FL-1A filter but it is rated at 32 microns and the FL-1A is rated at 20 microns. The stock FL-1A is a better filter.

Is the Fram Ultra XG8A with 5 microns rating a direct replacement for the motorcraft FL-1A filter?

They run about $9.00 at Walmart and the Motorcraft are $4.00.

Comments please

 

Another new / old truck question.

The truck is a 1971 F250 300 4.9L pickup. Anyone know what was the OEM automatic transmission that came with this truck
from the factory?

After some internet looking the information I found shows that all 1971 F250 300 4.9L had C4 automatic trans. No C6 or C/M in 1971.

Please correct me if I am wrong