Bosch sd pump efuel, stock hpop. Ive recently installed ffd 250/100injectors, 369sxe turbo and hydra with jelibuilt tunes (along with intercooler head studs valve springs and sb clutch) and i have put about 250 miles on the truck.

I am having a rough idle issue plus there are 3 100-150 rpm spots throughout the throttle that are really rough (1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2500rpm). In between these it runs fine, and there is no recognizable loss of power throughout the throttle.

At first I figured air in the system but it seems everywhere I've read about 150 miles is tops for bleeding it. This issue follows me throughout every tune and with or without the clutch engaged.

When loading the tunes to the chip I just downloaded them saved them in the order I wanted and hit program. Didn't set any info about the truck, hex code, pcm. Figured all that information would be included within the custom tunes.

When installing the injectors I torqued them down, pecked them with a rubber mallet, then retorqued them all. Since driving the 250 miles I have removed the valve covers and retorqued them all (none of them took more than a 1/8th turn) havent fully removed the valve covers due to the intercooler piping to get a straight edge on them, but am fairly confident they seated.

I dont have access to AE or anything but looking at the oil deflectors the injectors are all firing. I have checked my wiring harnesses to injector, valve cover (inside and out) and my pcm.

I've tried starting the truck without the icp plugged up and it wouldn't fire, and unplugged it while running and it died. I have had an issue with my hpop resivior leaking down and still do, someone suggested it could be an internal oil leak or air pocket under the icp causing the rough idle. I removed 2 of the 4 under valve cover oil rail plugs and they seemed to have their o-rings in good shape. Before injectors i had the normal cold start problem and that was it. Ran great once warm.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Longtime lurker, just couldnt find out any good info on this problem. Probably going to end up buying AE and a laptop.

 

 

Looked into the torque app a little. Can you data log with that? That way I could send info to jelibuilt should it turn to need revisions. Definitely plan on a pump in the future just figured this one would do alright with the tame tunes. Did the idp 3" manifolds, but as of right now I'm breaking in that clutch and taking it easy on the engine while everything gets settled. At maybe a 1/4 throttle I've seen 5-7 psi in my modified stock tune. Havent gone wot yet.

 

 

He has a new clutch to break in.

 

Trust me I wanna see what it'll do, just trying to take it easy while everything's new and until I get this thing smoothed out. But 250 miles including about 150 highway miles at 2200rpm shoulda worked that air out I'd think.

 

Have you set the truck back to the stock tune and REMOVE the tuner from the PCM to see if your problems go away? This should be done to rule out a glitch in the tuner.

 

I have set the chip to 00 that should be like bypassing the chip on a hydra right? And wouldnt it run rough with bone stock tunning anway?

 

Went ahead and set the chip back to 00 then pulled it and there was no change

 

 

working on how to add the graph

 

Hi 96f250extcab, I came up from your invitation.

I can see right away that you need some tough love here, then I can help out. Your friends tried to direct you to Torque Pro, but you opted for the much more expensive, slow, and cumbersome AE Giotto. I know that sounds strange coming from me, the guy who once pushed AE and held a long class on it - but tech changes fast. When I'm driving down the road, I use Torque Pro to monitor my stuff with alarms and logging active. When I'm troubleshooting, I now use FORScan - another app that works with a smart phone, tablet, or computer. I still have my "carputer" with AE, but I haven't gone through the hassle of dragging that cord and clicking that icon to configure PIDs in a very long time... years as a matter of fact. In order to get my apps in touch with the truck's brain, I bought OBDLink MX because it's the fastest one I found, it shuts off 15 minutes after the key is off (no battery drain and no hacking), it's made in USA, and it's a quality product that is supported by the manufacturer. If you don't like modern Chebbies, then the LX model is cheaper, but it doesn't come in WiFi for the Apple folk.

That's out of the way... now to the active problem. Your Scale Factor needs to be adjusted on your FIPW, if you set the scale factor to .001, and you should start reading in ms. Your math in the private message sounds spot-on with 100% nozzles and light throttle. I have 100% nozzles and unless I'm squashin' bugs with my right foot, my FIPW rides about 1.5 ms.

The CCT failure and throttle jumps sounds like a messy tune. When you say you switched to 00 and there was no change, that tells me you didn't restart - which you have to do when going in or out of the PCM tuning. I had a Hydra failure (not a chip problem) 400 miles from home once, and had to drive home with 100% nozzles and no chip. This all happened shortly before I sent my PCM in for a 100% nozzle stock-powered tune to be programmed into it, because I'm here to tell you - there's a monster difference between stock operation and chipped operation with 100% nozzles. I never, ever want to drive like that again - the throttle is a switch, not a volume ****. I drove through rush hour traffic on a Portland, OR interstate, and I still suffer from the effects of Powerstroke Offered Whiplash (POW).

100% nozzles are just on the wrong side of the guard rail of the easy-tuning thoroughfare. They really should be live tuned to really dial them in to stock-like smoothness and emission abatement, because they can get real smokey real fast if not tamed by a tuning expert with a laptop in the passenger seat (seen below).



You can send your logs in and you will likely see an improvement - but they can't "nail it". You then have to decide when it's "close enough", or if you want to spend the time and money for a live tune.

 

Sure sounds like new tunes are needed. I have much larger nozzles and have never had any of those issues when revving. Idle...ahhhh it's ok but high oil temps can aggervate idle quality. I have my own opinion on that cause and maybe someday we will get it perfect.

 

I appreciate the prompt reply. well I kinda figured a app you can download on your phone for $x.xx probably wouldn't be as in depth as the tried and true $xxx.xx. but technology changes quick. I couldn't find a whole lot about torque pro, I did download the free version just to get a feel of it and I really didn't think it would perform all that well. mainly I just wanted to be able to datalog and communicate with the tuner I'm using, with software that I figured most people had for simplicity.

don't know why I couldn't find anything about the scale factor besides a really old post from you, tried several different keywords to no avail.

I have set the chip to 00 (key out of ign, + on both batt removed) then removed it and the rough idle is still there. from an email;

 

Are your ICP numbers kinda low? Probably not. Have you captured numbers for IPR? If you have some high pressure leaks and are struggling to build high pressure it may show as an IPR high duty cycle. What kind of oil and is it fresh and clean? What are you calling DC? Is that your IPR?

If it weren't for Forscan and this forum I wouldn't be working with Ford diesel trucks. It's my right hand, after this forum. Lack of support for Forscan is frustrating sometimes.