Turns but doesnt fire. 1986 F150 302
#1
Turns but doesnt fire. 1986 F150 302
I had to lift the engine up to replace the oil pump underneath, so I disconnected everything I’d need for that to happen, including the electrical feed running from drivers side firewall to starter selonoid area.
Everything’s locked back into place, coudrouple checked connections and engine turns over fine, but wont even TRY to fire up.
It ran fine before, just had 0 oil pressure because I had misaligned the pump driveshaft.....
So, I’ve re-aligned to top dead center and plug #1, cleaned points and rotor, and verified spark at Plug 1.
I smell gas when I try to start it, but fuel isnt leaking anywhere.
I have one connector that I’m not sure about. I’ve included a photo of it here. Is it a fuel rail ground? Could this thing being disconnected stop the injectors from firing?
what additional steps can I take to help troubleshoot whats wrong?
thanks!!!!!!!!
#2
#4
#5
Here's a link that shows you how to pull the codes. You need to learn this if you are going to keep this truck.
EEC IV Self Test hookup
EEC IV Self Test hookup
#7
Okay, I was finally able to get back to the pickup again and here’s the results of reading KOEO codes w a voltmeter.
51, 51, longer pause, 51, 51
Which i believe is:
“ECT sensor signal is greater than the self-test maximum of 4.6v”
anyone have a clue as to what I can look into with this code?
I know #1 has spark and compression, so I’m wondering if fuel is the issue. I checked voltage at the connector boots to the injectors at cylinders 5 and 6 and got a regular rhythmic voltage lower than 12vdc.
Also, there was a substantial puff of air coming from the oil filler cap (mine has a hole for a tube leading to the air filter box, which is disconnected).
Man, I need some help with this pickup... I’m not sure what to do with all these clues and am needing to get back on the road.
Thanks in advance! You guys are great!
51, 51, longer pause, 51, 51
Which i believe is:
“ECT sensor signal is greater than the self-test maximum of 4.6v”
anyone have a clue as to what I can look into with this code?
I know #1 has spark and compression, so I’m wondering if fuel is the issue. I checked voltage at the connector boots to the injectors at cylinders 5 and 6 and got a regular rhythmic voltage lower than 12vdc.
Also, there was a substantial puff of air coming from the oil filler cap (mine has a hole for a tube leading to the air filter box, which is disconnected).
Man, I need some help with this pickup... I’m not sure what to do with all these clues and am needing to get back on the road.
Thanks in advance! You guys are great!
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#8
The guy in the book says to unplug the engine coolant temperature sensor, take a short piece of wire and jump the two terminals out in the connector, and then re-run the self test again. If you get a code 61 instead of a code 51, replace the sensor.
If you still get a code 51 after jumping the connector, take the jumper out, and then stick a piece of wire up in the connector on the lightgreen/yellow side, and take the other end of this wire and hook it to a good ground. Repeat the self test again with this side grounded. If you still get a code 51 with the lightgreen/yellow grounded, the lightgreen/yellow wire is broken somewhere between the connector and pin 7 on the computer.
If you get a code 61 with the lightgreen/yellow wire grounded, then the other wire which is a black/white wire is broken somewhere between the connector and pin 46 of the computer.
If you still get a code 51 after jumping the connector, take the jumper out, and then stick a piece of wire up in the connector on the lightgreen/yellow side, and take the other end of this wire and hook it to a good ground. Repeat the self test again with this side grounded. If you still get a code 51 with the lightgreen/yellow grounded, the lightgreen/yellow wire is broken somewhere between the connector and pin 7 on the computer.
If you get a code 61 with the lightgreen/yellow wire grounded, then the other wire which is a black/white wire is broken somewhere between the connector and pin 46 of the computer.
#9
Wow, I got a code 61! Looks like I’ll be replacing the sensor.
But... would that bad sensor keep the engine from firing. I’m pretty sure that it’s not getting fuel for some reason. I’m SMELLING gas, which means it aint being burned.
Also, when I popped the line off te sending side of the fuel filter. It “popped” with pressure. Like it was being pressurized but had nowhere to go.
But... would that bad sensor keep the engine from firing. I’m pretty sure that it’s not getting fuel for some reason. I’m SMELLING gas, which means it aint being burned.
Also, when I popped the line off te sending side of the fuel filter. It “popped” with pressure. Like it was being pressurized but had nowhere to go.
#10
#11
The plugs (which are Bosch 4302's) are very young in that motor, but I can think of two possible things that might've fouled them:
1) When I had the engine out of the pickup to replace the oil pump, I misaligned the pump driveshaft to the distributor and the engine ran without oil for 3 minutes or so. It got hot, this might've killed my sensor.
2) When all was put back together, I had reinserted the distributor out of town and had to realign to Top Dead Center. Maybe this soaked the plugs?
While I'm waiting for the sensor to come in (only $12 from Rockauto), would it be a good idea to pull all those Bosch plugs and turn the engine over to clear the chambers?
Franklin2, you are amazing sir!
1) When I had the engine out of the pickup to replace the oil pump, I misaligned the pump driveshaft to the distributor and the engine ran without oil for 3 minutes or so. It got hot, this might've killed my sensor.
2) When all was put back together, I had reinserted the distributor out of town and had to realign to Top Dead Center. Maybe this soaked the plugs?
While I'm waiting for the sensor to come in (only $12 from Rockauto), would it be a good idea to pull all those Bosch plugs and turn the engine over to clear the chambers?
Franklin2, you are amazing sir!
#12
#13
Replaced the ECT Sensor, still no fire, but I didnt think that’d be the end-all fix.
So I pulled all 8 plugs and they all smelled like gas. And they look pretty rough for plugs that were just replaced in February! I’ve attached a photo.
Also turned the engine over without the plugs and watched each cylinder send out little puffs.
And because I saw the puffs of air, that means I have air in te chamber. The plugs smelled like fuel, so I take that to mean I have fuel. So maybe these plugs are the culprit?!?!
I’ll hit em with a wire brush and wipe them clean and give it another go. But, just to make sure, my firing order should be:
1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
correct?
#14
#15
Ok my take on the plugs .......... REPLACE THEM!
For 2 reasons
Get the "normal" plug for your truck as that is what the truck was made for.
I have heard of the new type of plugs not working / lasting in our older motors. Remember they are used in EFI engines so the fuel to air ratio is tight and a lot less to foul them.
What is the gap on that type of plug? How do you check it and if needed change the gap? Wider the gap the harder the IGN box has to work and faster it can fail.
When they foul out even cleaning them with a wire brush may not un-foul them
BTW I have had a normal plug lean foul and not fire under load even if just raising the RPM it would back fire out the tail pipe.
Go with the cheaper old school plugs and I bet it will fire.
Dave ----
edit: you can not see air move so that puff of air was fuel & dirt being blown out of the spark plug hole.
For 2 reasons
Get the "normal" plug for your truck as that is what the truck was made for.
I have heard of the new type of plugs not working / lasting in our older motors. Remember they are used in EFI engines so the fuel to air ratio is tight and a lot less to foul them.
What is the gap on that type of plug? How do you check it and if needed change the gap? Wider the gap the harder the IGN box has to work and faster it can fail.
When they foul out even cleaning them with a wire brush may not un-foul them
BTW I have had a normal plug lean foul and not fire under load even if just raising the RPM it would back fire out the tail pipe.
Go with the cheaper old school plugs and I bet it will fire.
Dave ----
edit: you can not see air move so that puff of air was fuel & dirt being blown out of the spark plug hole.