I have a 2003 F150 with a 5.4 this is my first time having to mess with a computer, I have been changing the vac hose's a little bit at a time. The Check Engine light come on so I bought a Zurich Zr13 code reader from HF. It shows No Powertrain DTC's or Freeze Frame Data stored in vehicle's computer. It will not even Crank over does that mean I have to have someone put those back or can I do it with the code reader. I'm starting to think maybe I should have just finished my 74 Ranchero that I was building for my daily driver instead of jumping into all of this computer stuff. Thanks for any info

 

 

a new code reader has NOTHING to do with the truck not cranking over.

FIRST - charge the battery and make sure it is up properly.
SECOND - turn the key and try to crank...... if it cranks, GOOD>

If it does not crank, then determine ---------
do you hear the solenoid clicking when you turn the key ?

If YES , then you need to check the voltage / clean the battery terminals / make sure the battery is GOOD.
If the solenoid does not CLICK when you turn the key, then you are not getting power to the starter.. things to check
--- transmission in park / neutral start switch good / master fuse on fire wall failed

report back what you have found and someone will help you on the next step.

 

Thanks for the info guys I had already checked everything, it just will not crank over. I am partially colorblind so I didn't see the theft light blinking in the day light. I went out last night just to try it again and seen the theft light blinking when I got in the truck. So how can I get it out of theft mode and like I said this is my first time working with all of this new stuff. My toy is a 1930 Model-A and my last daily driver was a 1978 F150. I have always taken the Wife's car to a shop if it needed anything like this. I'm retired now so I need to learn how to do it myself. Thanks again everyone one more thing it will start right up if I jump the starter solenoid.

 

 

 

well, if you had indeed "checked everything", you would have found and fixed the problem. Do no assume that you properly checked whatever it was the you threw into the "everything" basket, especially since you indicated a lack of familiarity with the newer systems.

Follow the guidance given, answer the questions accurately and fully, and we'll guide you through the diagnosis and repair.

 

last summer I went to the store

truck would not crank when I came back out
01 5.4
turned out the last start was the last for the battery cable lug at the starter motor
cable was just hanging there with a piece of the lug still crimped to it and the other piece still bolted to the motor
big gap , no conductivity
just clickclickclickclick from the relay

 

when my battery died a few years ago every attempt to crank it over resulted in the factory alarm blasting
every time , eventhough I'd disarmed the alarm to start the truck before each attempt

big joy being in the hospital parking lot taking dad , in the wheelchair for tests

that was 5 years ago
that new ford battery has already been gone for the past 2 years so no more ford replacement batteries here , ever

 

Thanks for all the info everyone I realize I have a lot to learn about this new Truck. I guess I didn't say what I meant when I said I had checked everything. I meant I had checked the normal things on the older trucks I am use to working on. I am jumping the starter solenoid I think it's basically the same as the older ones. It all started when I cleared the codes from a vacuum leak.

 

The Check Engine light only has meaning if the engine is running. Anytime the key is in RUN but the engine is off, the check engine light is on to show that the light works - this does not indicate an error. Harbor Freight is arguably the worst place in the entire universe to buy stuff. Any stuff. You have not given any indication as to the health of the battery and/or your efforts to be sure the battery is not the problem. A weak battery can give a single click, or repeated clicks, even though lesser loads appear to be working fine. The starter is the single largest load that the battery needs to support. You have a closed system, electrically. If there is about 12v, then the small loads can appear to be working, but when the big daddy load (starter) is powered, then the voltage plummets because the current demand soars. You could have 12v and 50 amps, but the starter draws 80 amps, so the voltage falls. You cure this with jumper cables and a donor car, a good charger, or a new battery.

 

To B2,
If you can crank the motor from the start solenoid and not from the ignition switch, the difference is the power comes through the ignition switch through the transmission selector back to the firewall solenoid same as any other vehicle
The shifter has to be either in Park or Neutral for this circuit to be complete.
Otherwise it has nothing to do with codes or Pats under this circumstance. if the motor will run with the ignition switch on.
.
If pats is flashing and a no start, there is a PATS issue to resolve. A totally difference cause. for a no start but crank ok.
You must observe the subtle differences in how things show up to get a lead on the problem.
Good luck.

 

Sorry guys I am not use to asking questions lol I'm usually the one being the one that everybody is asking me questions. To start off I have only had the truck a short while, it was running fine. It has a new battery I checked it again it has a full charge. It was starting and driving fine I cleared the codes from a vacuum leak. And it will not crank over with the key, with the key on it will start by jumping the starter solenoid and drive fine. So it's getting power from the ignition, I have tried to start it in park and neural. I'm wondering if it has some kind of after market alarm that I tripped. Thanks for all the help

 

 

Ok that's what I have been starting it with the one on the firewall. I replaced it and bought a starter solenoid and that's what I got, so it's just called a relay. Boy have I got a lot to learn