Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Engine swap removing 5.0 and putting 78 400

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:21 PM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Engine swap removing 5.0 and putting 78 400

i have a 90 f150 and will be swapping the engine for a 400 out of a 78 f100. This is an engine I have and it is built. Not the best option but I have to use what I have. Will the 400 bolt to the factory automotic engine? I will be installing an older distributor to avoid the brain in the 78. This is was an unintentional project, that is being done out of necessity.

1990 f150 302/5.0 4x4 with ac (truck that needs the motor)
1978 f100 400 (big block) engine from the donor, I can also use the transmission if I need to, I would rather use the 90’s trans if possible.
 
  #2  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:27 PM
Conanski's Avatar
Conanski
Conanski is offline
FTE Legend
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,926
Likes: 0
Received 964 Likes on 763 Posts
Originally Posted by Andypayne
Will the 400 bolt to the factory automotic engine?
Nope...not even close.
 
  #3  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:36 PM
HardScrabble's Avatar
HardScrabble
HardScrabble is offline
Temporarily Deactivated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
400M might bolt up to a 460 trans, maybe not. I think it is the same bolt pattern but that doesn't always get you there.

With a little luck you can get an engine really cheap. It will be cheaper to replace with the same engine than to do any kind of swap. Swaps are not cheap.

Go down to the local pull it urself junkyard and see what they can do for you.
 
  #4  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:38 PM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What about putting the motor and transmission over?
 
  #5  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:52 PM
NotEnoughTrucks2014's Avatar
NotEnoughTrucks2014
NotEnoughTrucks2014 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 1,880
Received 98 Likes on 72 Posts
Not impossible, but there is so much to consider.

You will need to deal with the fuel system. Mechanical pump on the 400, electric in tank pumps on the 90. I believe that was the changeover year for the FDM's as well, so now you have to deal with high pressure fuel and the tank switching will not work as designed. Don't even think about fuel pressure regulators.

The 90 was designed for EFI, the 400 will be carbureted. You are going to have to butcher your wiring harness to accommodate the change.

Exhaust will have to be reworked. Possibly radiator, not sure on engine frame brackets. It's going to eat $$$$ and time.

It would be so much quicker, cheaper, and easier to locate and install a junkyard 5.0.

On the transmissions, you would pretty much have to use the trans coupled to the 400, but if it is not 4WD, you have a whole new set of problems.
 
  #6  
Old 06-09-2018, 08:57 PM
McLeod's Avatar
McLeod
McLeod is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,028
Received 157 Likes on 120 Posts
You will spend more converting this than you will to just get a like kind replacement engine.
 
  #7  
Old 06-09-2018, 09:08 PM
HardScrabble's Avatar
HardScrabble
HardScrabble is offline
Temporarily Deactivated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
See if you can trade one truck for a good engine for the other truck. But, don't sell yourself short. Maybe sell the truck and buy the engine and the other stuff you will need.
 
  #8  
Old 06-09-2018, 09:26 PM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

QUOTE=HardScrabble;18028852]See if you can trade one truck for a good engine for the other truck. But, don't sell yourself short. Maybe sell the truck and buy the engine and the other stuff you will need.[/QUOTE]

That is what I am thinking now. I have a 78 one ton that I took the bed off of I might be able to Trade to the pick and pool for a different 50. The 78 that I was going to pull the motor from is a one owner that has minimal rust over the rear fenders. And the 400 that is that it is a crate motor that is hopped up. What would you expect to pay for a 5.0?
 
  #9  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:11 AM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What year range of motor will work? What about a 351w?
 
  #10  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:36 AM
HardScrabble's Avatar
HardScrabble
HardScrabble is offline
Temporarily Deactivated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Since I'm not there and can't see what you are working with and don't know who you are dealing with, it's real hard to guess what is right for you.

Around here you can buy an engine for under $200. You have to be real careful not to buy junk. Some people look for wrecked vehicles thinking it was the wreck that got it to the junkyard. You can look for sludge in the oil filler, buildup in the intake and breather, and oil in the exhaust for some clues on engine condition. If you ask or if you're real sneaky you might be able to start it before you pull it.

Even if you swap to a 351 you hit snags that can be expensive and time consuming. If you swap, go ask a mechanic what he would charge to do it. They have reasons to charge so much. It will probably cost twice as much and take three times as long as your best guess.

I had a 1979 supercab with the 400. I drove that truck for 15 or 20 years. Drove it through most of the states. It was a good truck but my 91 is a world ahead of it.

The 302 could come from a number of cars also, doesn't have to be a truck. I'm not a 302 fan so other people can fill you in on the details. It's a good engine. Better in a car than a truck. It's a compact engine and makes a lot of power for the space it takes to install it. Trucks have plenty of room for an engine and don't need a compact engine.
 
  #11  
Old 06-10-2018, 12:24 PM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HardScrabble
Since I'm not there and can't see what you are working with and don't know who you are dealing with, it's real hard to guess what is right for you.

Around here you can buy an engine for under $200. You have to be real careful not to buy junk. Some people look for wrecked vehicles thinking it was the wreck that got it to the junkyard. You can look for sludge in the oil filler, buildup in the intake and breather, and oil in the exhaust for some clues on engine condition. If you ask or if you're real sneaky you might be able to start it before you pull it.

Even if you swap to a 351 you hit snags that can be expensive and time consuming. If you swap, go ask a mechanic what he would charge to do it. They have reasons to charge so much. It will probably cost twice as much and take three times as long as your best guess.

I had a 1979 supercab with the 400. I drove that truck for 15 or 20 years. Drove it through most of the states. It was a good truck but my 91 is a world ahead of it.

The 302 could come from a number of cars also, doesn't have to be a truck. I'm not a 302 fan so other people can fill you in on the details. It's a good engine. Better in a car than a truck. It's a compact engine and makes a lot of power for the space it takes to install it. Trucks have plenty of room for an engine and don't need a compact engine.
The 1990 F1 50 has the 5.0 in it currently. The engine has burnt valves and is a cobbled up mass somebody took a late model block and put the modern accessories on it. There is no dipstick to check the oil and it has a few other issues. It does run and drive but not for very long before overheating. I will attach a picture of the truck and motor. The 78 is a explore has a crate motor and transmission rear end all new from ford. I was told the king pins and steering box or out of the 78. The steering box is not out of the 78 it was just never adjusted I have it adjusted now to where there is about a quarter inch of turn on the steering wheel before the wheels start turning or you can feel it catch. I can’t find anything wrong with the king pins I jacked it up put a bar underneath the tires bouncing up and down shook it left or right and they appear to be solid. I have a friend coming over who is more of a ford person to look at it. I am looking at doing the swap for my dad. I am a Chevy guy which I know won’t help me out on this forum, but I deal and work with lots of 50s and 60s model Chevy cars and trucks I know them inside and out. I will attach a picture of the 78 as well.

 
  #12  
Old 06-10-2018, 01:12 PM
NotEnoughTrucks2014's Avatar
NotEnoughTrucks2014
NotEnoughTrucks2014 is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 1,880
Received 98 Likes on 72 Posts
Originally Posted by Andypayne
I am a Chevy guy which I know won’t help me out on this forum, but I deal and work with lots of 50s and 60s model Chevy cars and trucks I know them inside and out.
Ah, well that explains a lot.

Actually, we love helping out the Chevy guys and do our best to convert them to the Ford religion.

The thing with Ford is that the engines and transmissions do not interchange as readily as the GM engine families do. Sort of like Chev vs. BOP in Bowtieland. Easiest path with a Ford is to get as close to the engine originally equipped and go from there. Even within a given engine, say the 302/5.0 Ford, there can be variances. You are in luck because late 80's pickups are a very common source for such an engine. I would suggest you look for the 87 to 91 range although the newer engines changed to a very desirable roller cam design. Some of the differences you will encounter in a Ford are the engine balance change in around 1980 as well as a relocation of the dipstick from the oil pan to the block. Oil pan is also different for the truck application vs. cars. There are internal differences in the connecting rods as well, but this won't be noted in light service.

Sounds like you may have an early engine, so I would suggest getting the flexplate and balancer from the engine you will be transplanting. No telling what you may have in your truck at this point. Flexplates also are unique to the transmission, i.e AOD will be different from EOD.

That said, I agree that an engine can be had quite cheaply at the self serve wreckers and if you look carefully, you probably can find a good one.
 
  #13  
Old 06-15-2018, 05:05 PM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Found a running engine with 40k on it. Picking it up tomorrow and installing it this weekend.
 
  #14  
Old 06-16-2018, 01:50 PM
HardScrabble's Avatar
HardScrabble
HardScrabble is offline
Temporarily Deactivated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
What a deal! I hope it is a good one. Might be the best ever.

You could do a leak down test without even spinning the engine over. Or just hook up the starter and spin it to do a compression test.
 
  #15  
Old 06-17-2018, 07:41 AM
Andypayne's Avatar
Andypayne
Andypayne is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HardScrabble
What a deal! I hope it is a good one. Might be the best ever.

You could do a leak down test without even spinning the engine over. Or just hook up the starter and spin it to do a compression test.
I will be starting it today. It’s installed and hooked up.
 


Quick Reply: Engine swap removing 5.0 and putting 78 400



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:24 PM.