Maintenance suggestions for upcoming trip
#1
05-25-2018, 12:36 PM
Maintenance suggestions for upcoming trip
Hi Guys,
I have a 2004 Super duty truck that has had a fairly easy life so far. Bought it new and it only has 33,000 miles on it. In fact, just getting ready to replace the original tires. They still look great. The only towing it's seen has been pulling a boat and that was short trips (less than 10 miles) maybe 15 times total. I'm planning on taking a trip pulling a small 16 foot cargo trailer about 1500 miles and want to get the truck in great reliable service. I have always used full synthetic Rotella oil in the truck, changing the oil around 5 to 7k which is about 2 years. Shell told me no problem with the time span. Always used Motorcraft filters. I plan on new oil and fuel filters which would be the second change for them (fuel). Also put in a new air filter. Reading all the issues about this motor, I plan on doing a transmission service - about 8 quarts I'm told by replacing the internal filter and external tranny filter. Same goes for the coolant service - replace 3 gallons of Ford Gold and 3 gallons of distilled water. My first question is about the coolant. I've read about using the Ford iron removal fluid but it seems more difficult to get out of the system once it's in. I'm doing this work in my garage and multiple flushes in a garage seem to be quite messy. I've seen videos that utilize 3 flushes of the radiator with tap water and flush out, followed by two distilled water flushes, then refill with the 3 gallons of Ford Gold and that's it. Next question is about the coolant filters. I like the idea but doing this with 30 days to go before the long trip seems like I could be getting into problem areas. No leaks now so maybe it's best to wait till I get back. Any comments about that? Finally, I am really edgy about the head gasket issue. I have no traces of gray dust (?) or material under the hood and no lack of power right now. So, I'm assuming no head gasket leaks. Ford won't tell me if it's possible to replace the existing head bolts with studs one at a time and not pulling the heads. Has anyone tried this method as a preventative measure? Was told that this work could be performed with the cab on in this 2004 model. My daughter has asked for this truck somewhere down the line and I'd hate to give her something either unreliable or very expensive to fix. Going to do the oil change today and move forward from there. Thanks for any suggestions. Love the truck. Bob
I have a 2004 Super duty truck that has had a fairly easy life so far. Bought it new and it only has 33,000 miles on it. In fact, just getting ready to replace the original tires. They still look great. The only towing it's seen has been pulling a boat and that was short trips (less than 10 miles) maybe 15 times total. I'm planning on taking a trip pulling a small 16 foot cargo trailer about 1500 miles and want to get the truck in great reliable service. I have always used full synthetic Rotella oil in the truck, changing the oil around 5 to 7k which is about 2 years. Shell told me no problem with the time span. Always used Motorcraft filters. I plan on new oil and fuel filters which would be the second change for them (fuel). Also put in a new air filter. Reading all the issues about this motor, I plan on doing a transmission service - about 8 quarts I'm told by replacing the internal filter and external tranny filter. Same goes for the coolant service - replace 3 gallons of Ford Gold and 3 gallons of distilled water. My first question is about the coolant. I've read about using the Ford iron removal fluid but it seems more difficult to get out of the system once it's in. I'm doing this work in my garage and multiple flushes in a garage seem to be quite messy. I've seen videos that utilize 3 flushes of the radiator with tap water and flush out, followed by two distilled water flushes, then refill with the 3 gallons of Ford Gold and that's it. Next question is about the coolant filters. I like the idea but doing this with 30 days to go before the long trip seems like I could be getting into problem areas. No leaks now so maybe it's best to wait till I get back. Any comments about that? Finally, I am really edgy about the head gasket issue. I have no traces of gray dust (?) or material under the hood and no lack of power right now. So, I'm assuming no head gasket leaks. Ford won't tell me if it's possible to replace the existing head bolts with studs one at a time and not pulling the heads. Has anyone tried this method as a preventative measure? Was told that this work could be performed with the cab on in this 2004 model. My daughter has asked for this truck somewhere down the line and I'd hate to give her something either unreliable or very expensive to fix. Going to do the oil change today and move forward from there. Thanks for any suggestions. Love the truck. Bob
#2
05-25-2018, 01:18 PM
#3
05-25-2018, 01:21 PM
If you haven’t changed your coolant in 14 years, that’s your highest risk. It’s not just a mileage interval, but time as well.
At this point if it was my truck, inherited, I’d do a good water flush only, then install an ELC. The coolant filter helps somewhat, but it’s a proportional filter, it’s use slows down an issue, not solving it.
The stud one-at-a-time procedure is not exact science. It’s a procedure infrequently used by some manufacturers. I can’t see the majority of dealers taking the risk, and probably the majority of enthusiasts not willing to try it. If a head gasket is in a failure mode, I can’t see this solving it. For me this is a “if it ain’t broke ...” situation, why risk creating a problem when none appears.
The head gasket issue again is more related to not changing the coolant for so long, risking debris clogging the oil cooler, overheating the EGR cooler, and therefore straining the head gaskets from eith aloss of coolant or coolant entering the combustion chamber.
So as I started I think you best prep is to water flush the old coolant, installing a better coolant for the application, and getting an electronic monitor to read the operating parameters. Then learn the things you should be monitoring so you know when problems are developing so they can be addressed before serious failure.
At this point if it was my truck, inherited, I’d do a good water flush only, then install an ELC. The coolant filter helps somewhat, but it’s a proportional filter, it’s use slows down an issue, not solving it.
The stud one-at-a-time procedure is not exact science. It’s a procedure infrequently used by some manufacturers. I can’t see the majority of dealers taking the risk, and probably the majority of enthusiasts not willing to try it. If a head gasket is in a failure mode, I can’t see this solving it. For me this is a “if it ain’t broke ...” situation, why risk creating a problem when none appears.
The head gasket issue again is more related to not changing the coolant for so long, risking debris clogging the oil cooler, overheating the EGR cooler, and therefore straining the head gaskets from eith aloss of coolant or coolant entering the combustion chamber.
So as I started I think you best prep is to water flush the old coolant, installing a better coolant for the application, and getting an electronic monitor to read the operating parameters. Then learn the things you should be monitoring so you know when problems are developing so they can be addressed before serious failure.
#4
05-25-2018, 02:48 PM
If you haven’t changed your coolant in 14 years, that’s your highest risk. It’s not just a mileage interval, but time as well.
At this point if it was my truck, inherited, I’d do a good water flush only, then install an ELC. The coolant filter helps somewhat, but it’s a proportional filter, it’s use slows down an issue, not solving it.
The stud one-at-a-time procedure is not exact science. It’s a procedure infrequently used by some manufacturers. I can’t see the majority of dealers taking the risk, and probably the majority of enthusiasts not willing to try it. If a head gasket is in a failure mode, I can’t see this solving it. For me this is a “if it ain’t broke ...” situation, why risk creating a problem when none appears.
The head gasket issue again is more related to not changing the coolant for so long, risking debris clogging the oil cooler, overheating the EGR cooler, and therefore straining the head gaskets from eith aloss of coolant or coolant entering the combustion chamber.
So as I started I think you best prep is to water flush the old coolant, installing a better coolant for the application, and getting an electronic monitor to read the operating parameters. Then learn the things you should be monitoring so you know when problems are developing so they can be addressed before serious failure.
At this point if it was my truck, inherited, I’d do a good water flush only, then install an ELC. The coolant filter helps somewhat, but it’s a proportional filter, it’s use slows down an issue, not solving it.
The stud one-at-a-time procedure is not exact science. It’s a procedure infrequently used by some manufacturers. I can’t see the majority of dealers taking the risk, and probably the majority of enthusiasts not willing to try it. If a head gasket is in a failure mode, I can’t see this solving it. For me this is a “if it ain’t broke ...” situation, why risk creating a problem when none appears.
The head gasket issue again is more related to not changing the coolant for so long, risking debris clogging the oil cooler, overheating the EGR cooler, and therefore straining the head gaskets from eith aloss of coolant or coolant entering the combustion chamber.
So as I started I think you best prep is to water flush the old coolant, installing a better coolant for the application, and getting an electronic monitor to read the operating parameters. Then learn the things you should be monitoring so you know when problems are developing so they can be addressed before serious failure.
#6
05-26-2018, 10:59 AM
Avoid last minute maintenance that can ruin the trip. Try to leave a week of driving after all work to find/fix leaks or other issues which may show up.
Breaking the radiator drain valve, cutting a radiator hose, etc. Can put a wringle in your trip start.
check fluids and tire pressures.
New Wiper blades and top off washer fluid, lots of bugs waiting to die on your windshield!
Breaking the radiator drain valve, cutting a radiator hose, etc. Can put a wringle in your trip start.
check fluids and tire pressures.
New Wiper blades and top off washer fluid, lots of bugs waiting to die on your windshield!
#7
05-26-2018, 11:39 AM
+1 on switching to a better coolant. As said, use a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant. The Ford Gold works OK if frequently flushed AND if it does not see high temperature extremes. If/when it does, it will cause enough problems to cost you many hundreds of dollars.
I would charge and load test the batteries also.
I would charge and load test the batteries also.
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#8
05-30-2018, 03:35 PM
Hello again, I've ordered all my parts with the exception of the transmission fluid. Been reading a lot of articles and watching a lot of you tube videos. I'm somewhat confused about which fluid I should use. First, I believe that in 2004 Ford installed the 5R110 5 speed transmission in the diesel engine trucks. Is that correct? My owner's guide lists both 4 and 5 speed transmissions and the 6 liter supplement doesn't say for sure which one I have. Assuming it's the 5 speed, the manual says use Mercon SP. Lately, I've read that I could mix the SP with the LV. I understand the LV is the full synthetic and will probably go with it over the SP. Again, all I'm planning on doing is the simple drop the pan and external filter and use between 6 to 8 quarts. Planning on buying the bulletproof Scan Gauge 2. I've seen it at their website and at Amazon. Are these the same units or is the Amazon unit an older model? Thanks again for all your help. Bob
#9
05-30-2018, 04:43 PM
#10
05-30-2018, 05:27 PM
Since you are going to drop the trans pan anyway... Why not get the updated ('08+) pan and internal filter? It's all of about a hundred bucks and you'll then have 100% filtration of the trans fluid anytime the engine is running (versus your current Max of 10% filtration and only when the trans is hot enough to send oil to the front cooler and filter). It'll take a bit more fluid when you do this (slightly larger pan): mine took 9 Qts when I did the pan/filter swap...
Part numbers: Trans pan: 8C3Z-7A194-B and Filter: 8C3Z-7A098-D
You might want to clean your EGR valve if it has never been done, EGR Gasket: 3C3Z-9P455-AB
At some point I'd put in the updated fuel pressure spring, AKA: Bluespring -- low fuel pressure can cause ex$pensive injector replacements...
As the guys said: don't sweat the headgaskets but get yourself switched over to ELC asap. And monitor, monitor, monitor... Voltages is one of the main things I look at all the time...
Have a great trip!
Scott
Part numbers: Trans pan: 8C3Z-7A194-B and Filter: 8C3Z-7A098-D
You might want to clean your EGR valve if it has never been done, EGR Gasket: 3C3Z-9P455-AB
At some point I'd put in the updated fuel pressure spring, AKA: Bluespring -- low fuel pressure can cause ex$pensive injector replacements...
As the guys said: don't sweat the headgaskets but get yourself switched over to ELC asap. And monitor, monitor, monitor... Voltages is one of the main things I look at all the time...
Have a great trip!
Scott
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