1984 emissions?
#1
04-23-2018, 11:20 AM
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1984 emissions?
I have been reading around and I can’t seem to find exactly what I need. I just bought an 84 f150 2 wd long bed with the 300 i6 and 4 speed trans without overdrive. My question is if I was looking to totally delete the emissions and wanted to make it as simple as possible such as manual choke and no electronic plugs anywhere what carb would you recommend? It has electrical plugs and motors on the carb for automatic idle adjust, and a few other things but isles at 1400 rpm no matter how I adjust the screw also the choke doesn’t work right , it sputters and loads up until it’s warm , I’m sure I could get everything working right I’d just like it as simple as possible. Also will a different distributor be necessary? Thank you for your help.
#2
04-23-2018, 12:16 PM
I have been reading around and I can’t seem to find exactly what I need. I just bought an 84 f150 2 wd long bed with the 300 i6 and 4 speed trans without overdrive. My question is if I was looking to totally delete the emissions and wanted to make it as simple as possible such as manual choke and no electronic plugs anywhere what carb would you recommend? It has electrical plugs and motors on the carb for automatic idle adjust, and a few other things but isles at 1400 rpm no matter how I adjust the screw also the choke doesn’t work right , it sputters and loads up until it’s warm , I’m sure I could get everything working right I’d just like it as simple as possible. Also will a different distributor be necessary? Thank you for your help.
You would want to change out your fuel delivery & ignition systems to something non-computer-controlled, this isn't terrifically hard to do if the truck is going to spend the rest of its life in an emissions-unenforced location.
You'd want to do a DS2 swap, look it up.
As for actual emissions controls, there really isn't much - EGR valve & smog pump being the primary technology at the time and can be dealt with pretty easily.
#3
04-23-2018, 12:31 PM
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#4
04-23-2018, 01:08 PM
Lead Driver
Obowersox26,
Your 1400 RPM idle [with the idle screw backed all the way out?] is most likely caused by a vacuum leak. My son has a 1984 with 4.9L and we had the same issue. It was an easy fix once I determined the source.
I have a 1986 with 4.9L which has been converted to the older Duraspark system.
Ctubutis asked regarding the emissions testing... do you have to have yearly inspections?
Your 1400 RPM idle [with the idle screw backed all the way out?] is most likely caused by a vacuum leak. My son has a 1984 with 4.9L and we had the same issue. It was an easy fix once I determined the source.
I have a 1986 with 4.9L which has been converted to the older Duraspark system.
Ctubutis asked regarding the emissions testing... do you have to have yearly inspections?
#5
04-23-2018, 02:08 PM
Most go something like this: "I just bought this truck from my neighbor's cousin because he's going to jail for a few years. He removed all that pollution crap to make it run better. Seems to start up just fine after several minutes of cranking but I have to downshift to second to get up to freeway speeds. Do you think new spark plugs will help?"
Oh anyways, if you do want to enroll in the club, do your homework first. Don't just start removing components and expect the truck to magically run better like that. There are many other changes you will have to make to compensate. Forum members who have successfully crossed over can walk you through the details. For example, the factory timing has extra advance thanks to the EGR system, so that will need to be considered to prevent knocking. The much-maligned smog pump? Among other functions, it sprays cool air on the back of the exhaust valves to prolong their lives. Lots of stuff like that to consider.
#6
04-23-2018, 03:21 PM
Cargo Master
I'm no fan of the "Rip out all that pollution crap" club, but if you do cross over to the dark side, make sure you do it right. Unfortunately, we've seen plenty of examples here of how NOT to do it.
Most go something like this: "I just bought this truck from my neighbor's cousin because he's going to jail for a few years. He removed all that pollution carp to make it run better. Seems to start up just fine after several minutes of cranking but I have to downshift to second to get up to freeway speeds. Do you think new spark plugs will help?"
Oh anyways, if you do want to enroll in the club, do your homework first. Don't just start removing components and expect the truck to magically run better like that. There are many other changes you will have to make to compensate. Forum members who have successfully crossed over can walk you through the details. For example, the factory timing has extra advance thanks to the EGR system, so that will need to be considered to prevent knocking. The much-maligned smog pump? Among other functions, it sprays cool air on the back of the exhaust valves to prolong their lives. Lots of stuff like that to consider.
Most go something like this: "I just bought this truck from my neighbor's cousin because he's going to jail for a few years. He removed all that pollution carp to make it run better. Seems to start up just fine after several minutes of cranking but I have to downshift to second to get up to freeway speeds. Do you think new spark plugs will help?"
Oh anyways, if you do want to enroll in the club, do your homework first. Don't just start removing components and expect the truck to magically run better like that. There are many other changes you will have to make to compensate. Forum members who have successfully crossed over can walk you through the details. For example, the factory timing has extra advance thanks to the EGR system, so that will need to be considered to prevent knocking. The much-maligned smog pump? Among other functions, it sprays cool air on the back of the exhaust valves to prolong their lives. Lots of stuff like that to consider.
Durasprk runs great and is dead reliable, but can get you in to trouble depending on your local laws. Also, feedback set up runs smoother, starts easier and returns slightly higher MPG.
Both are good, but I wouldn’t ditch a feedback system just because one solenoid is bad or carb needs a rebuild.
#7
04-23-2018, 08:10 PM
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Thank you all for your input, I’ve checked for vaccum links and can find none, there’s a a little electronic diaphragm deal that pushes on the throttle arm and even when I back the screw way off so that the two do not come in contact and I can lower the idle via idle screw but after I drive it awhile that electronic deal comes out further and raises the idle right back up, and I agree about leaving it alone and I would do so the only reason I wanna simplify it is because it’s missing key components for all the emissions including the air pump and tube and now is just capped off and I really don’t wanna try to find everything to put it back to stock , it honestly runs fine when it’s warm
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#8
04-23-2018, 09:44 PM
Thank you all for your input, I’ve checked for vaccum links and can find none, there’s a a little electronic diaphragm deal that pushes on the throttle arm and even when I back the screw way off so that the two do not come in contact and I can lower the idle via idle screw but after I drive it awhile that electronic deal comes out further and raises the idle right back up, and I agree about leaving it alone and I would do so the only reason I wanna simplify it is because it’s missing key components for all the emissions including the air pump and tube and now is just capped off and I really don’t wanna try to find everything to put it back to stock , it honestly runs fine when it’s warm
#9
04-23-2018, 09:46 PM
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#10
04-24-2018, 07:03 AM
Cargo Master
Are the two vacuum lines going to the air pump valves plugged? One should be pink and the other black?
Do you still have the cats? They could be clogged internally.
#12
04-24-2018, 10:43 AM
We still haven't determined what system he has have we? If you have a vacuum line to the distributor, then you have the older system still without the computer. If you do not have a vacuum line to the dist, and there is a rectangle module mounted on the dist like a 5.0 mustang, then you have the computer system on it. If you are going to take stuff off, you have to convert it to a older distributor for it to run correctly if you have the computer control system.
#13
04-24-2018, 12:08 PM
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#14
04-24-2018, 12:09 PM
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#15
04-24-2018, 12:17 PM
Cargo Master
Or you can take it to an auto parts store that still can check ODB1 codes with a reader...call and ask before.
3rd way, which I'm not sure on is that you can jumper the connector and turn the key in some order and then watch the yellow 'EMISSIONS' light on the dash flicker....there are youtube videos out there.
this might be a different test, but this is the connector.
