I have a 1950 F1 with the original 8BA flathead. Both the belts are loose (you can move the fan easily slipping it past the belt. What is the correct tension for the belts, to me they seem to loose at the moment.

Suffolkman

 

They say after tightening you should have a 1/2 inch deflection in the belt, meaning you can push the longest run of the belt down a 1/2 inch with your hand, but you really have to push.

 

They may appear loose (and maybe yours are), but they aren't going to be taut like on modern cars with tensioners. It's no treat adjusting the tension, good luck.

 

OK...I think I will leave well alone !!.

 

Is your generator charging your battery properly? Is your fan turning fast enough to cool the radiator fluid? Then they are probably tight enough.

 

Well it's been a hot day in Suffolk today, unseasonably hot actually. Did a 20 mile or so shakedown and all went well. SO, I guess I will leave it as is. Thanks again to all, I always get a great response to my questions.

Suffolkman

 

Generator bearings as a rule will not take a high tension the way an alternator will, and it's not necessary anyway.

Belt slippage though, is no good either. One thing that helps prevent it is to take maybe a wire wheel or something like that and break the glaze of the internal V running surface of the pullies.

 

I'm going to install one of these to help preserve my coolant pump bearings. I have one on my dozer, table saw, band saw, and drill press and they work great, no "flat spots" from sitting. Not for the purist though.

 

Those are pretty slick! So ya just make a belt as long as needed? Snaps together or whatever?

 

Yes. Far superior to rubber belts. Not affected by fuels, aging, or temperatures. After I first installed the ones on the dozer and table saw it took an of hour of operation for the belt to "settle in" and I had to remove one link. Since then no additional adjustments were required, and I do believe they run cooler. The links don't snap together, rather they twist together which requires a set of pliers.The links are interlaced, so you have to undo two links in order to remove one link. I figure I'll never have to buy another belt. Here's some more info if interested.
Link Belting for Power Transmission | Fenner Drives

 

And in the very remote possibility that a belt breaks, you can repair it on the spot with a spare link.

 

Thanks for the link, bookmarked that. I'm just a simple pilgrim, see all those choices and colors and my eyes glaze over. Which replace the standard 1/2" V belt?

 

You can get A-section (1/2") linked belts at Harbor Freight and Amazon too.

 

OK, tracking... The red stuff "A"; replaces all 1/2" vee belts generally speaking. EBay has it too. Looks like just under 4 feet will do a typical V8 eg 45" belt, so maybe $40 worth. Cool beans