Well guys, due to a slight water leak I have decided to do some work on the engine.

About 5 weeks ago I told myself I was going to replace the timing cover gasket and water pump.
About 3 weeks ago I did some looking online and decided I wanted to pull the engine and replace the oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
About 2 weeks ago I decided I wanted to pull the head and replace the valve springs and install a new cam
Last week I talked with my neighbor who is currently driving a racecar that has a heavily modified inline 6 engine in it.

Now I am pulling the engine completely rebuilding it. I have contacted a very reputable machine shop that will be doing the block work for me along with rebuilding the head.

As of now my basic plans are as follows:

1) Bore the engine over 20 or 30 thousands and install larger pistons and rings
2) Install a comp cam 252H or 260H
3) Install a dual plain Offy intake with a 600CFM 4 barrel
4) EFI Exhaust Manifolds (I purchased a set of OEM ones from EBAY that were off a 0 miles van.
5) Smooth out the intake and exhaust runners in the head prior to the rebuild. I have read about removing the "bump" inside, but I have not gotten mine pulled apart so I can confirm.

Whatever else you guys talk me into.

I have a deadline of 1 year to get this project completed.

All comments are welcome.

Thanks,
Cody

 

Sounds like a solid plan!

 

I just spent the past 4 and a half weeks repairing some old termite damage in the garage so now I can hopefully get something on the truck.

I hope to get the engine out this weekend. I have already removed the water pump, radiator, power steering pump alternator, and the bell housing bolts.

Hopefully I can just remove the motor mounts and the starter and pull the engine right out.

I have found some 7/16-14 UNC 3" long grade 5 bolts and about 3/16" worth of washers to mount the engine to the stand. This should give me around 13/16" or so thread engagement into the block.

 

 

 

Saturday I crossed an item off of my bucket list. I pulled an engine completely by myself including removing the hood by myself.

Couldn't be happier right now and I can give most of the credit to the great influential people on this forum.

 

 

Not had any time to really work on tearing down the engine. This is what has been done so far. Plus you can see another purpose for your free harbor freight tarp.

 

Well, I had time this morning to get the head off and I found something I was hoping I would not.

It appears the cylinders are already bored over 40 over, and cylinder 1 has some nice score marks you can fill with your fingernail.


Its hard to tell from the photo below, but this is the cylinder that is scored.



I have a couple of questions.

1) Is there any issue having them bore the cylinders 60 assuming the score can not be cleaned up by honing?
2) Can the machine shop sleeve the first cylinder and bore it 40 over and just hone the other 5 assuming no other issues are found?
3) What would you do?

Thanks for your input.

Thanks,
Cody

 

Since it's already bored .04 over, and it's worn out again, I would start with a fresh block, since you're planning to add some performance goodies also. Any block pre-87 should work, and if you're lucky enough to find a 65-68 block, you can use 351W performance pistons with the earlier rods

 

Thanks DeereFord300 for the reply. That's really a bummer to hear. I am really hoping not to have to find another block due to additional cost on this project.

I'm guessing you would not recommend going 60 over if the 40 will not clean up with a hone?

Thanks,
Cody

 

60 over can be a gamble, it likely won't go through the bore at that point, but it may get too close to the oil passages and water jacket and cause cooling issues. With a stock build, you could likely get away with it, but with a modded motor, it will be safer to get a JY block. Luckily, they're super common

 

Whoa! Gazing at your first picture....do mine eye deceive me or is that compression ring not seated in the piston? It looks like you could take it out with a scribe.....and the piston appears to be a good 0.025" away from the cylinder wall all the way around.
If it is, Holy Piston Slap, Batman!!!!

 

Filthy Beast,

LOL, I believe you are seeing the reflection of the piston in the shiny surface of the cylinder wall giving the illusion of the huge gap. I actually had to go outside and check for myself.