ESOF & Post fire issues
#1
ESOF & Post fire issues
2001 F250 with electrical issues after the April torching.
Bullet point issues:
*Can not electronically UNLOCK doors--at doors or with key fob
*Horn short--blows the fuse every time
MOST IMPORTANT, as SNOW has finally arrived in Taos.
*Can not shift into 4WD (H or L)
no power at the switch-checking all four wires of connector
no 4x4 lights on dash (they do work at startup)
no shifting at TC
30 amp maxi fuse good
How to check relays?? Trouble shoot power supply?? TC shifting motor?
Bullet point issues:
*Can not electronically UNLOCK doors--at doors or with key fob
*Horn short--blows the fuse every time
MOST IMPORTANT, as SNOW has finally arrived in Taos.
*Can not shift into 4WD (H or L)
no power at the switch-checking all four wires of connector
no 4x4 lights on dash (they do work at startup)
no shifting at TC
30 amp maxi fuse good
How to check relays?? Trouble shoot power supply?? TC shifting motor?
#2
So get yourself a 6 prong 2 way momentary switch. Momentary means it doesn’t stay in the position you put it in like it’s spring loaded to go back to neutral position..this is a rough sketch I did how to wire it in... do some research though to make sure you get it right.. you don’t HAVE to go through the computer to use 4x4 then I mounted the switch in front of my knees on the removable panel under steering wheel. Also if your do the 4x4 switch make sure you position the switch so up is on and down is off so you don’t bump it into on and put a flip cover on it that will help .too. Wiring this toggle in will do a couple things for you. Either get you 4x4 or help you determine if you motor is good..
this is how you test relays-don’t do acid is the message I get from this guy
this is how my 4x4 is hooked up. Pretty simple you can reader help” 4x4 toggle switches” this is exactly how you wire the 6prong switch
Also try this. Did it with mine a couple years ago still work..I will do a video myself on how the 4x4 switch works and post it up so keep an eye out on the 7.3-f-250 forums
this is how my 4x4 is hooked up. Pretty simple you can reader help” 4x4 toggle switches” this is exactly how you wire the 6prong switch
#4
Woof.
When you aren't fully aware of how these groups work, the results you get can seem pretty amazing. I'm getting use to the idea that this group is a bottomless well of information and the answers are just plain out there. I need to do a more thorough job of explaining the situations
The 4WD toggle is a great idea if I can't figure that one out. In fact I may do a temp toggle while I work on the fix. I've gotten hung up in sloped, icy parking spots without the 4x4.
I tried to be brief in the first posts (too brief I fear), but as I read through some of these posts, it has come to me that as a group, everyone seems to enjoy an interesting story, so here goes.
I started with this group after my dream truck (2001 F250 Super Duty, 160K, super clean, no rust, gooseneck hitch, good tower...) was torched by some misguided **&%#! My original post was in May, 2017, and was titled "FIRE". The final post in that series was in November, 2017. I can't figure out how to link that post here, or repost it, but if you check it out you will see the extent of the damage and the final rebuilt product. So, I am suspecting my electrical issues have something to do with either melted wires, or misconnected ones. (The horn, for example, is a short, duh--I just need to find it or give up and bypass it)
DOOR LOCKS
So, the door locks have new actuators. They lock just fine, from key fob and door panel, but they don't even try to unlock. Not like the tired actuators where when you push the button you can tell they want to unlock, they just can't. They are clearly not getting power to unlock--not from the key fob, nor the door panel. In my reading, I've come across the "All Door Unlock Relay Coil". By it's job description, that sounds like the culprit, or the place to start the investigation. 20 A Maxi fuse number 26 that protects said relay, is in tact. Where is this relay that sends unlocking power to both doors?
4WD
In October, 2017, I got my truck back for one week. I drove it with a notebook on the seat making notes of what did not work. The 4WD worked just fine. When I got the truck back in November, It did not work. As described I don't seem to have power to the dash switch. I don't know enough about the system of relays and other electronic pieces parts to play, for fear of frying something buried deep behind... (I did read the post where someone put up the description from the manual of the ESOF--I'm trying to find that one again, it may contain the secret) If I were stuck in the desert or in a snow bank, I'd run a hot wire to the in-dash-switch and see if that works. if so, then I'd assume there is a break in the hot wire and bypass it. (check out the simple s*#% first, right?) Anybody know of a reason NOT to do this?
As time has allowed the past couple months, I've poked around behind the dash and in the door panels tucking in the corners of repairs that just weren't quite perfect or were just untidy. I have noticed good attempts, and good ideas where costs just didn't allow for proper execution. I have found slightly melted connections; zip-tie restraints replacing the broken or melted ones; melted, leaking, and misconnected vacuum lines. I'm not really wagging a finger here. If they had taken the time--I could not have afforded it. And I'm happy to do the mop-up--that was the deal I made with Joey. (I wish I had had the time to do the job in the first place) AND, they were MUCH better than I would have been at knowing where to start! So, I'm happy with where I am.
I do not have an indoor space--the temp is up to 15 now, so I'll head out to start the search for the 4WD fix. Relays 40 & 41 are where I'll start. I'm not seeing a way to figure out which set of relays are for the 4WD and which for the trailer tow.
I'll be back in an hour or two with a report. Any helpful hints, or if anyone is in my neighborhood...!
ENJOY!
When you aren't fully aware of how these groups work, the results you get can seem pretty amazing. I'm getting use to the idea that this group is a bottomless well of information and the answers are just plain out there. I need to do a more thorough job of explaining the situations
The 4WD toggle is a great idea if I can't figure that one out. In fact I may do a temp toggle while I work on the fix. I've gotten hung up in sloped, icy parking spots without the 4x4.
I tried to be brief in the first posts (too brief I fear), but as I read through some of these posts, it has come to me that as a group, everyone seems to enjoy an interesting story, so here goes.
I started with this group after my dream truck (2001 F250 Super Duty, 160K, super clean, no rust, gooseneck hitch, good tower...) was torched by some misguided **&%#! My original post was in May, 2017, and was titled "FIRE". The final post in that series was in November, 2017. I can't figure out how to link that post here, or repost it, but if you check it out you will see the extent of the damage and the final rebuilt product. So, I am suspecting my electrical issues have something to do with either melted wires, or misconnected ones. (The horn, for example, is a short, duh--I just need to find it or give up and bypass it)
DOOR LOCKS
So, the door locks have new actuators. They lock just fine, from key fob and door panel, but they don't even try to unlock. Not like the tired actuators where when you push the button you can tell they want to unlock, they just can't. They are clearly not getting power to unlock--not from the key fob, nor the door panel. In my reading, I've come across the "All Door Unlock Relay Coil". By it's job description, that sounds like the culprit, or the place to start the investigation. 20 A Maxi fuse number 26 that protects said relay, is in tact. Where is this relay that sends unlocking power to both doors?
4WD
In October, 2017, I got my truck back for one week. I drove it with a notebook on the seat making notes of what did not work. The 4WD worked just fine. When I got the truck back in November, It did not work. As described I don't seem to have power to the dash switch. I don't know enough about the system of relays and other electronic pieces parts to play, for fear of frying something buried deep behind... (I did read the post where someone put up the description from the manual of the ESOF--I'm trying to find that one again, it may contain the secret) If I were stuck in the desert or in a snow bank, I'd run a hot wire to the in-dash-switch and see if that works. if so, then I'd assume there is a break in the hot wire and bypass it. (check out the simple s*#% first, right?) Anybody know of a reason NOT to do this?
As time has allowed the past couple months, I've poked around behind the dash and in the door panels tucking in the corners of repairs that just weren't quite perfect or were just untidy. I have noticed good attempts, and good ideas where costs just didn't allow for proper execution. I have found slightly melted connections; zip-tie restraints replacing the broken or melted ones; melted, leaking, and misconnected vacuum lines. I'm not really wagging a finger here. If they had taken the time--I could not have afforded it. And I'm happy to do the mop-up--that was the deal I made with Joey. (I wish I had had the time to do the job in the first place) AND, they were MUCH better than I would have been at knowing where to start! So, I'm happy with where I am.
I do not have an indoor space--the temp is up to 15 now, so I'll head out to start the search for the 4WD fix. Relays 40 & 41 are where I'll start. I'm not seeing a way to figure out which set of relays are for the 4WD and which for the trailer tow.
I'll be back in an hour or two with a report. Any helpful hints, or if anyone is in my neighborhood...!
ENJOY!
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