I have a 96 F250 and am in need of a new headlight. it is a 65/55 bulb system. I see brighter bulbs available so am wondering if a electrical issue would be created by installing the 80/100w bulbs. Would I need to do some electrical plug upgrades??? would the brighter bulbs work just fine in my system without making additional changes?

 

Years ago I ran 80/100's on my Toyota 4X4 with no issues. However, our trucks run the power for the headlights through the headlight switch. The OBS headlight switch is known for melting down or sometimes even starting fires when it malfunctions. Therefore I would recommend installing a headlight harness before upgrading to a higher wattage bulb. The harness uses a relay to trigger the lights so they draw directly from the battery or other power source without going directly through the headlight switch. There are lots of threads on here about making or buying one and installing it. It's on my to do list for my 92.

Some people have posted that installing the harness has improved their lights so much they didn't need to upgrade.

 

The first and best upgrade is head light relays.

The best bulbs I have used are Phillips Extreme Vision and GE Nighthawk.

Over wattage bulbs are generally a bad idea. They operate too hot and can melt assemblies and connectors etc. Not to mention the fact that it is illegal.

Also stay away from any bulbs that have any sort of coating on them. This includes the popular Silverstar which is garbage.

 

Bronco Graveyard is a site supporter. I bought their headlight relay kit. Well made, easy to install, and obviously better headlights after installation. I'd also recommend wetsanding and covering with a gloss clear to improve the headlights

 

Polishing or coating the outside of the headlights only works if the reflector and inside of the lense is still in good shape. At their current age, the OEM assemblies might be toast inside. Mine had the glare shields loose inside the housings, reflective material peeling off and heavy oxidation on the inner surfaces.

New CAPA-certified replacement headlights from any of our vendors and a headlight relay harness would go further than wasting time trying to restore the existing twenty-two year old headlights. I just did this with my truck and the difference is staggering. My headlight harness kit is on order along with some Vosla +100 bulbs.

A note about bulbs; Do not waste your time with any coated bulb. Coatings only diminish the light output. Get a bulb that has a clear capsule for maximum output.

Also, from doing some reading and research, Sylvania bulbs seem to be pretty low on the pecking order. They also seem to be the prevalent brand in most auto parts stores in my area. Philips or Vosla bulbs will most likely have to be ordered from any number of online sources.

 

x3 on headlight relay harness. JBG or LMC Truck. Well worth $$ and super easy install. I did it mainly to save the switch. Full amperage thru switch = not best idea. GM did the same thing thru 98 or so with their GMT 400 (OBS) trucks.

 

Another vote for the relay harness and QUALITY bulbs like Phillips

 

If you don't like OEMs I don't know. I put new lenses on my factory housings IN THE TRUCK. No adjustment, no disassembly of anything. It took a little fit up trimming on new lenses and a fat bead of clear silicone two years ago. Maybe get a rollbar in your bed and put stadium lights on it like Walker Texas Ranger.

 

Light bar LED really bright one

 

So just to clarify......

Is the relay kit you guys referring to the one listed here?

Are you saying that the new harness ramps up the input of the bulbs by allowing more power to go to the bulbs?

 

I don't have a clue about the quality of that harness. I do find it to be a very low price similar to the LMC one. I know you cannot buy all the best components for that price. BUT....I'm not familiar with it so it may be a loss leader. Take a look at CE Auto Relay Kits and see if you can figure out the difference. You want top of the line relays (Hella, Flosser etc.) and top of the line connectors. Perhaps there are some folks on here who can chip in on the big cost difference.

 

The Bronco Graveyard relay harness is a good budget harness. I do stress budget. Originally the BGY harness that might have been from Putco, had non-standard relays that had no replacement part available. The current harness has relays available through BGY and they may be standard Bosch style, I'm not sure. The CE Auto Electric harness kit is heavy duty and it comes with everything, grounding screws and tie-wraps. You do not have to go get anything with their harness. It's built well and it uses the standard Hella/Bosch relay so they would be easy to find if you needed to replace things.

The harness basically supplies full battery voltage to your headlights. For example, I had just a touch over 10 volts at the bulbs, backprobed at the socket without a harness. Mind you, Battery voltage on my truck is about 14.3 running. I was giving up almost four volts and as far as lumen output, that's giving up a bunch of lighting. The OEM wiring to your headlight switch has some 18ga wiring in it, insufficient for full output. A harness fixes that inequity. It also saves your headlight switch from burning up on you, taking the headlight switch plug with it.

 

Wow. according to Daniel Stern's Chart you were running on about 33 percent of your potential lumen output.

________________________
Daniel Stern Chart Listed Here
"Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential to the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a bulb with a rated output of 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and look what happens when it is operated at different voltages":

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens
____________________________________

 

Those numbers don't lie-low voltage = no respectable lumens output. So yeah, now you see why the relay harness is a very important upgrade to the Gen 7-8-9 truck. Now, calculate that low voltage with old bulbs and lenses that were so cloudy inside and out, you could not see the glare shields floating around inside the housings. Both sides were detached, most likely due to the jarring they received from my D50-TTB front end.

 

Here is one of my trucks a couple of years ago. stock 20 year old housings with "stock" bulbs
The ONLY difference is the relay harness
First pic is WITH the harness Second one is withOUT