Parts search description whl bearing retainer
#1
12-16-2017, 07:34 AM
Parts search description whl bearing retainer
This is for the truck in my signature line, I am attempting to search but so far not able to even find the correct name for parts. Front Rotor on manual lockout hubs - outer wheel bearing the first parts to go next are like a cup and nylon or plastic type ratcheting thingy then the 4 hole washer that basically screws onto shaft to put correct tension on the wheel bearing. I have bad nylon tooth assembly but I do not know what this is really called to do a search for the part. Went to local Ford dealer the parts guy was not able to identify either and basically told me that due to age will not be available thru Ford anyways.
Can you guys help to at least tell me what the part is called, or if someone has an exploded diagram showing all the related parts ? If someone might have the parts to sell that might even be a good second step.
Thanks
Can you guys help to at least tell me what the part is called, or if someone has an exploded diagram showing all the related parts ? If someone might have the parts to sell that might even be a good second step.
Thanks
#2
12-16-2017, 10:05 PM
While reading another thread found a pic of the part I am trying to describe:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-truck-9.html
Go to bottom of this page 3 rd pic up.
You can see where the 4 pins of the socket are inserted to turn it .... and you can actually see under those pins what I tried to describe as plastic or nylon teeth ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-truck-9.html
Go to bottom of this page 3 rd pic up.
You can see where the 4 pins of the socket are inserted to turn it .... and you can actually see under those pins what I tried to describe as plastic or nylon teeth ...
#3
12-17-2017, 08:40 AM
Lead Driver
#4
12-17-2017, 09:48 AM
Yes I believe that is it ..... not sure what it was called, now I can do some searching. One of mine the nylon / plastic part came apart in pieces, that can't be good .....
#5
12-17-2017, 05:56 PM
Lead Driver
#6
12-18-2017, 05:33 PM
Yes if it comes apart you'll find there are 2 tooth washers which basically mesh against each other and somehow allow slip when correct torque is applied. The outer one is steel and the inner one is nylon or plastic it seems .... I guess if you know, that might be bad news if they are not intended to be in various pieces to see what I have .....
#7
12-26-2017, 04:07 PM
Ok the question now, does anyone know where I can get these ? Tried the dealer, no can do, too old out of stock no fiche any more to even get a part number. Tried Bronco Graveyard - nope, sorry. Their suggestion maybe a bone yard. So the question to everyone on the forum - any other ideas ?
My 94 seemed to have the 3 washers and the middle one had the pins, the 92 seemed to have as described and mentioned to be called a high shear wheel bearing nut ....
My 94 seemed to have the 3 washers and the middle one had the pins, the 92 seemed to have as described and mentioned to be called a high shear wheel bearing nut ....
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#8
12-27-2017, 04:07 PM
Lead Driver
#10
12-29-2017, 08:07 AM
Ok, now that I can purchase this part as noted above, wonder if I should ask this question: If Ford went with a newer style in more recent trucks, the 2 nuts and a spacer with the pin, is that design better for instance to keep it from loosening up ? It seems that this design only allows a certain amount of torque before the nut slips which is fine but what keeps it from moving ? In a basic GM vehicle 2 wd a castle nut with a cotter pin handles this chore, not possible in an enclosed hub space such as this ....
Has anyone had problems with loosening using this kind of retainer vs the 2 nuts and spacer used later ?
I guess the other question do they both have same thread size pitch and diameter so that I can switch if that makes sense ?
Has anyone had problems with loosening using this kind of retainer vs the 2 nuts and spacer used later ?
I guess the other question do they both have same thread size pitch and diameter so that I can switch if that makes sense ?
#11
12-29-2017, 09:28 AM
Lead Driver
My ‘87 uses this style wheel bearing nut. I only had problems with it after installing 35” tires. I’m not sure what you mean by allowing so much torque before it slips and what keeps it from moving? It is sort of a ratcheting nut so the teeth are supposed to keep it from backing off. Are you pushing in on the socket when removing the nut to reduce wear on the teeth?
If I remember right, the other style has a nipple on the inner nut. Then the holey spacer that is keyed to the spindle and engages the nipple on the nut. The outer nut is then torqued to lock everything down. Maybe that was just on Explorers and Rangers.
Rear drive cars and trucks had the castellated nut. How would you install the cotter pin? It would have to go through the axle stub shaft.
If I remember right, the other style has a nipple on the inner nut. Then the holey spacer that is keyed to the spindle and engages the nipple on the nut. The outer nut is then torqued to lock everything down. Maybe that was just on Explorers and Rangers.
Rear drive cars and trucks had the castellated nut. How would you install the cotter pin? It would have to go through the axle stub shaft.
#12
12-30-2017, 07:48 PM
My ‘87 uses this style wheel bearing nut. I only had problems with it after installing 35” tires. I’m not sure what you mean by allowing so much torque before it slips and what keeps it from moving? It is sort of a ratcheting nut so the teeth are supposed to keep it from backing off.
Ans: Yes but when installing I am using a guess of maybe 20 to 35 lbs of torque may be needed before it starts to slip, you can't tighten it any further.
And there is no other locking mechanism like the double nut and pin washer, or cotter pin castle nut. So when completely installed, on one side of the truck the outer wheel bearing would be rotating in a direction that might only have a tendency to tighten the nut but on the other side it might have a tendency to loosen it ? I had 31 inch tires and had one side that basically broke apart internally - teeth on one side were steel the other plastic - this one came apart in pieces along with wave type washers I believe. Hence my question about actual problems of this design - 2 of us apparently had problems, wonder how common among others ?
Are you pushing in on the socket when removing the nut to reduce wear on the teeth?
Ans: I think so .... maybe you are saying I could have broke the plastic toothed washer by not exerting enough pressure inwards when removing ?
If I remember right, the other style has a nipple on the inner nut. Then the holey spacer that is keyed to the spindle and engages the nipple on the nut. The outer nut is then torqued to lock everything down. Maybe that was just on Explorers and Rangers.
Ans: My 94 F150 had this type of nut described above as well.
Rear drive cars and trucks had the castellated nut. How would you install the cotter pin? It would have to go through the axle stub shaft.
Ans: I recognize this style not possible on enclosed hubs ...
Thanks for information above so far ...
Ans: Yes but when installing I am using a guess of maybe 20 to 35 lbs of torque may be needed before it starts to slip, you can't tighten it any further.
And there is no other locking mechanism like the double nut and pin washer, or cotter pin castle nut. So when completely installed, on one side of the truck the outer wheel bearing would be rotating in a direction that might only have a tendency to tighten the nut but on the other side it might have a tendency to loosen it ? I had 31 inch tires and had one side that basically broke apart internally - teeth on one side were steel the other plastic - this one came apart in pieces along with wave type washers I believe. Hence my question about actual problems of this design - 2 of us apparently had problems, wonder how common among others ?
Are you pushing in on the socket when removing the nut to reduce wear on the teeth?
Ans: I think so .... maybe you are saying I could have broke the plastic toothed washer by not exerting enough pressure inwards when removing ?
If I remember right, the other style has a nipple on the inner nut. Then the holey spacer that is keyed to the spindle and engages the nipple on the nut. The outer nut is then torqued to lock everything down. Maybe that was just on Explorers and Rangers.
Ans: My 94 F150 had this type of nut described above as well.
Rear drive cars and trucks had the castellated nut. How would you install the cotter pin? It would have to go through the axle stub shaft.
Ans: I recognize this style not possible on enclosed hubs ...
Thanks for information above so far ...
#13
01-01-2018, 06:18 AM
Lead Driver
#14
01-01-2018, 06:32 AM
Postmaster
#15
01-01-2018, 05:30 PM
