can't get my 78 into 4h
#1
#2
Do you have a body lift or anything like that? I wonder if the shift lever is physically hitting the body? Don't hear about that much on our types of trucks, but it happens a lot on others so it's worth mentioning.
Colder weather. Do you use heavy gear lube in yours? Like the 140 stuff perhaps? That might do it. But if you have 75w/90 or even straight 85 or 90 weight, I wouldn't think that would be the issue.
And just for the record, is this a 205 or a converted 203 by any chance?
Good luck.
Paul
Colder weather. Do you use heavy gear lube in yours? Like the 140 stuff perhaps? That might do it. But if you have 75w/90 or even straight 85 or 90 weight, I wouldn't think that would be the issue.
And just for the record, is this a 205 or a converted 203 by any chance?
Good luck.
Paul
#3
Since it will go in 4L I suspect you have a linkage or bushing issue. X2 all that Paul said. So time to insp things the linkage or replace a bushing.
1. Lock hubs.
2. While setting still, idling in P try to go to 4H, if that does not work while holding steady pressure in the 4H direction, put it in D and see if it will idle roll and go in 4H. If its a manual trans, try being in neutral, then 2nd gear and let a little clutch out.
If not, again while holding steady pressure in 4H direction and while slow rolling give it a throttle blip or one twice.
1. Lock hubs.
2. While setting still, idling in P try to go to 4H, if that does not work while holding steady pressure in the 4H direction, put it in D and see if it will idle roll and go in 4H. If its a manual trans, try being in neutral, then 2nd gear and let a little clutch out.
If not, again while holding steady pressure in 4H direction and while slow rolling give it a throttle blip or one twice.
#4
Sorry for the lack of detail in the original post. It is a 205 with an auto trans. I have had the truck for a while but just now got it back on the road. Never tried the 4wd until tody. It took me a while to move the shifter forward into the 4L position and I drove it about 5 miles at around 25 mph. The motor was up on rpm's so I knew it was working. I was on a very icey road that was all construction with no where to pull over to change into 4H. Then I made the mistake of trying to switch into 4H while going around 10 mph. It did not like that at all. lol Stopped the truck and pulled the shifter back trying to get it into 4h. Stepped on the gas and the truck slid sideways telling me it wasn't in 4wd. Got to my destination and tried again to get it into 4wd without luck. Got it home and tried the back up neutral slow roll all of the tips and nothing. No power to the front driveshaft. I'm guessing I broke something when I was grinding the gears. Really bummed about this! This truck has been one nightmare after another since I got it but I'm not giving up on it! Heres a video.
#5
I have to ask..did you NOT ck the 4wd operation (both 4H and 4L) before you bought it?
"Still having a little carburetor issues, think I might SCan that Holley, and put a ah Edelbrock on there but...this thing runs good." That last statement is a contradiction to the 1st one. lol
IMO I would work on the issue of the current carb before I go spend the $ on a different carb. Is it is a hard to start issue, leaking, power less or what? Maybe the carb just needs a rebuild kit or it just needs tuned.
It might be a cheap simple fix for the time being, until you go EFI. Which kit are you looking at? FiTech, Holley Sniper, FAST, Quick Fuel, MSD Atomic??? Keep us posted on what works out for you. Do a tech thread n it too.
4L to 4H info from FTE members.
"With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans in neutral with the engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and some times to stop the grinding I just shut the truck off) in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment."
"Still having a little carburetor issues, think I might SCan that Holley, and put a ah Edelbrock on there but...this thing runs good." That last statement is a contradiction to the 1st one. lol
IMO I would work on the issue of the current carb before I go spend the $ on a different carb. Is it is a hard to start issue, leaking, power less or what? Maybe the carb just needs a rebuild kit or it just needs tuned.
It might be a cheap simple fix for the time being, until you go EFI. Which kit are you looking at? FiTech, Holley Sniper, FAST, Quick Fuel, MSD Atomic??? Keep us posted on what works out for you. Do a tech thread n it too.
4L to 4H info from FTE members.
"With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans in neutral with the engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and some times to stop the grinding I just shut the truck off) in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment."
#6
#7
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#8
I have to ask..did you NOT ck the 4wd operation (both 4H and 4L) before you bought it?
"Still having a little carburetor issues, think I might SCan that Holley, and put a ah Edelbrock on there but...this thing runs good." That last statement is a contradiction to the 1st one. lol
IMO I would work on the issue of the current carb before I go spend the $ on a different carb. Is it is a hard to start issue, leaking, power less or what? Maybe the carb just needs a rebuild kit or it just needs tuned.
It might be a cheap simple fix for the time being, until you go EFI. Which kit are you looking at? FiTech, Holley Sniper, FAST, Quick Fuel, MSD Atomic??? Keep us posted on what works out for you. Do a tech thread n it too.
4L to 4H info from FTE members.
"With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans in neutral with the engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and some times to stop the grinding I just shut the truck off) in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment."
"Still having a little carburetor issues, think I might SCan that Holley, and put a ah Edelbrock on there but...this thing runs good." That last statement is a contradiction to the 1st one. lol
IMO I would work on the issue of the current carb before I go spend the $ on a different carb. Is it is a hard to start issue, leaking, power less or what? Maybe the carb just needs a rebuild kit or it just needs tuned.
It might be a cheap simple fix for the time being, until you go EFI. Which kit are you looking at? FiTech, Holley Sniper, FAST, Quick Fuel, MSD Atomic??? Keep us posted on what works out for you. Do a tech thread n it too.
4L to 4H info from FTE members.
"With trans in neutral and clutch "out", the input shaft is turning and "internal windage" as the trans lube is swirled will still apply a rotation to the output shaft when there's nothing to stop it turning.... like when you slide the TC into neutral on the way from 2hi to 4lo.
Mine has a C-6 and while I can shift from 2hi to 4hi with trans in neutral with the engine running, I need to stop and place trans in PARK before going from 2hi through TC neutral to 4lo for similar reason.
The deal is when that TC hits neutral, there is nothing to stop it's input shaft from turning, and that means nothing to stop the transmission output from turning .... (except in my case when I place C-6 in Park the park pawl locks the trans output shaft) ..... and some times to stop the grinding I just shut the truck off) in your case, pushing the clutch in will minimize it. If your clutch drags a hair, you'll maybe need to shut your engine off .... in which case the clutch needs adjustment."
On to the TC, my truck is an automatic so some of the stuff doesn't apply but most of it still does. I didn't check it before I got the truck of course now I wish I would have but I dont think it would have kept me from buying it. I only paid $1000 for it and drove it home 50 miles or so. I have done all the different things to try to get it into 4wd and nothing works. I thought the shifter wasn't going all the way back into 4H but now I think it's just something is keeping it from engaging.
#9
Carb problem sounds like a vacuum issue maybe, but hay I am not a carb guy either but I can guess pretty dang good.
As far as the TC since it will go in 4L I would not panic yet...have you pulled the back plate off and looked in side?
Great link. NP205 Rebuild Guide
As far as the TC since it will go in 4L I would not panic yet...have you pulled the back plate off and looked in side?
Great link. NP205 Rebuild Guide
#10
Carb problem sounds like a vacuum issue maybe, but hay I am not a carb guy either but I can guess pretty dang good.
As far as the TC since it will go in 4L I would not panic yet...have you pulled the back plate off and looked in side?
Great link. NP205 Rebuild Guide
As far as the TC since it will go in 4L I would not panic yet...have you pulled the back plate off and looked in side?
Great link. NP205 Rebuild Guide
#11
Front end like...axle front end? Like inside the front pumpkin or the short shaft u joints? One side or both? Or like a clunking noise from under the truck.. like from inside the TC?
But in 2wd it still works? Could be it is rebuild time or get another tc case all together.
Offroad Design - Complete Rebuilt NP205, NP203 transfer Cases
New_Process_NP205_Parts - Torque King 4x4
https://www.midwesttrans.com/NP205_T...r_%20Case.html
Rebuild Kits NP205 Transfer Cases plus assembly Illustration | NP205 Transfer Cases Part - Drivetrain
But in 2wd it still works? Could be it is rebuild time or get another tc case all together.
Offroad Design - Complete Rebuilt NP205, NP203 transfer Cases
New_Process_NP205_Parts - Torque King 4x4
https://www.midwesttrans.com/NP205_T...r_%20Case.html
Rebuild Kits NP205 Transfer Cases plus assembly Illustration | NP205 Transfer Cases Part - Drivetrain
#13
#14
Ok I took the front diff cover off the check the gears because the truck was sometimes getting power to the front diff. Glad I did because the vent hose was off and the diff was full of water. Cleaned it out after checking the gears (all were fine), reinstalled the hose and filled with clean gear oil. Checked the transfer case and it was full so I changed the oil. Checked the lockers and the passenger side was totally stripped. Put a new set of WARN lockers on it and it's all good. It's still a little tough to get the transfer case into gear but it works. I think it might have been tough to get into gear from stitting so long and me not knowing what I was doing. lol It takes some finessing to get it into gear but I'll work on that when it warms up a bit in the spring. For now it pulls like a freght train thru thick snow so it's all good! On to the next issue! lol