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I believe the part number also includes the length. Since they are the same, I would think you have the right belt. Are you sure you have the belt routed properly in front of the engine?
I believe the part number also includes the length. Since they are the same, I would think you have the right belt. Are you sure you have the belt routed properly in front of the engine?
Yeah it is routed properly for sure. It's prolly my 5th belt replacement in last 3 years, I've been replacing one accessory at a time trying to figure out what's eating it.
Anyway, part number is DEF the same as what cam off of it so I am puzzled.
I will check again in a few days see if it's settled.
That is strange... There should be a good amount of play in the tensioner in order to get the belt mounted. Did you replace the tensioner recently and forget to remove the holding pin/bracket by chance? When the belt is off, can you move the tensioner freely or does it seem to bind or get caught?
There is not a lot of room to spare when mounting the belt, but I have done it several times by myself with very little effort and no loosening of the alternator.
There was another thread on this a while back, one of the belts is 1/2" shorter for our trucks but I don't recall the exact details. The guy in the other thread eventually figured it out.
I'm going to drop this suggestion here. 18" breaker bar from Harbor Freight.
The little bit of flex helps align it with the tensioner and I can even push it with the back of my hand.
I understand leverage, but the difference between this and my 12" Craftsman ratchet is HUGE!
Often on sale for a buck cheaper, too. If you don't have an equivalent yet, put one of these in your tool set. Some of their tools are true winners
You might be right about this. I use a 1/2 ratchet with a 4' breaker bar over the handle to move the tensioner on my truck. This may be the problem because if I remember correctly the tensioner gives just a bit at first, then gets a bit tougher as you pull back on the bar.
As for the too short belt, when you put it on, get everything on except the tensioner pulley, and have a buddy pull the tensioner towards the passenger side all the way until it stops and HOLD IT FIRMLY.
Use your fingers from the front and work the edge of the belt under the pulley. New belts can be tight, but it CAN be done
There are two different belts, one if I remember correctly is for the cold weather package. They are very close in size though.
This is correct, although his part number matches the part number I posted which includes the length of the belt. I have no problems (knock on wood) getting the belt onto my truck, but he does with the same amount of pulleys or accessories on the front of the engine.
I mount the belt by myself in a different way than ExPACamper does. I get the belt on everything including the tensioner except pulley 3, which I think is the idler. Then I pull up on the tensioner so the back side of the belt (smooth side) is able to slide onto or under pulley 3. This not only eliminates the need to line the ribs up on the belt with a pulley, but brings the belt final mounting point up to an easy height to work with.
I mount the belt by myself in a different way than ExPACamper does. I get the belt on everything including the tensioner except pulley 3, which I think is the idler. Then I pull up on the tensioner so the back side of the belt (smooth side) is able to slide onto or under pulley 3. This not only eliminates the need to line the ribs up on the belt with a pulley, but brings the belt final mounting point up to an easy height to work with.
#3 in the diagram isn't the tensioner pulley? Dang it...Sorry...That is the one I do, too- at the top, right in the middle. Thanks for the correction!
12-11-2017, 12:10 PM
