I am continuing to collect parts, and make improvements on Gertie, but boy is it getting expensive.

As I have written in other posts, I have bought quite a few parts from DC lately, and have not been very happy with several of them. That said, they have made good on most of the pieces. I recently received another fuel filler grommet, but have yet to install it. I also received the replacement hub cap for the ill fitting one, along with two more caps as I found that the dish depth is enough to fit over the rear axle hubs (Gertie has a Dana 60 and the hubs are longer than the split rear axles that originally came on these trucks). Carpenter's was gracious in not charging me shipping for the two new caps. The new caps fit great, and are now on the truck. Completely changes how she looks in my mind.

I have yet to install my new battery tray, along with the new headliner. At Denny's (firstrider) suggestion, I have also bought three 1941 Ford car window crank *****, as these are a very close match to the ***** that control the heat, air, and defrost cables on my fresh air heater. The ***** are very close in appearance/shape to the originals, but the light tan color is a tad darker. Not too noticeable though, and much better than the gnarly, deteriorating originals. Have them installed, but the holes are a bit big. Will have to epoxy them on for a tight fit.

I also received from Denny my new fresh air heater parts. These include the two steel tubes, blower housing, outer blower shield, and squirrel cage. The parts look very good. He did not have a motor, but I am thinking my motor is salvageable. It was still operating last year, but will not turn now. Either the bushings have froze, or the rust in the blower housing has gotten to the point it is interfering with fan rotation. Parts are currently sitting on the floor in my den.

Going to have to get motivated, got parts sitting around everywhere just waiting to be installed.

A couple years ago, I had the ignition switch cylinder lock up on me. After removing the cylinder, I took it to a locksmith to see what could be done to repair it. After dinking with the thing for over an hour, he came to the conclusion that it was just too worn out to fix. I suspected that anyway, but figured I would make sure the cylinder was truly shot. Looked around the 'net for a replacement and could not find one, so I purchased a Chinese knock-off from DC. While it works OK, it looks cheap. So... for the past few years have continued to search for an NOS cylinder. Two weeks ago, the door lock cylinder shucked the little door that covers the key hole. Took the cylinder out, but determined that there isn't any way of swaging the pin hinge to tighten the clearance and hold the door on properly. The cylinder escutcheon is crimped to the cylinder, and not removable without pretty well destroying it.

Armed with this new knowledge, I began looking harder for lock cylinders. Finally found a complete, original, NOS set at Jesser's Keys. The set is both the ignition cylinder, door lock, two keys, and the key code tags. Went ahead and bought them, and it surely wasn't cheap. That said, they are original equipment, will fit right, and outlast me. They should be here tomorrow.

The last two items (actually three) I am contemplating in the very near future, are new leaf spring packs for the rear, and an original rear axle. Have had a few bites on an ad I placed on the Early Ford V8 forum, but am a little leery because of the issues that forum has had with scammers. Finally put in a call to Chuck at Chuck's Trucks. After a week, he found a good, complete rear end, including drums, backing plates, etc., but it is in New Jersey. He didn't have a complete rear in stock. While it will be expensive buying and trucking the rear to Indiana, I am thinking that it is worth it for the peace of mind. Chuck is reputable, and knows what he is talking about when it comes to fat-fendered Ford trucks, and guaranteed the rear wouldn't be blown up. In our conversation, he also told me that he has the ring and pinion kits in stock to convert these differentials to 4:11. The kit includes all the bearings, gaskets, and the ring and pinion. Price is $850. To completely rebuild the rear, I will still need to replace the wheel bearings and seals. While it may sound expensive, it isn't too bad considering it is for an obsolete differential.

I have attached a few photos of Gertie taken this evening showing off the new hub caps and heater *****. The first photo shows the new SS screws for the door panels and headliner. Got the headliner screws painted black like the originals, and are now ready to install. The nut is for the spare tire carrier, and I just received it last week from NOS Parts Ltd. It was the only one they had. Got a query in to another source to see what their price is. There were several places who had the things a couple years ago, but only about three list them now.

The second photo shows my new steering wheel. Looks very good, and it fit right. Only issue was a small defect at the edge of the horn button pocket at the 6 o'clock position.

 

Gertie is looking great! Is her rear the split housing type like the bigger trucks use? It's nice there's a source for upgrading them and changing the ratio.

 

Thanks for the update and the pictures. She looks good!

 

Yes, it is the split housing, spiral bevel gear type. The F-1 trucks used a modern integral housing rear, the F-2 and 3 used the split spiral bevel, then for the big boys, there were several choices such as the banjo two speed, and the split housing hypoid.

At this point, the only real concern I have with the truck, is the amount of rust on the body. I need to better protect her from the elements. At present, I cover her with a water resistant truck cover. It sheds most of the moisture, and breathes, but it is only a stop-gap measure. Have considered building a garage (need more room anyway, as the attached garage on my house is small and already full of crap), but the thought of the higher property taxes, along with the expense in construction sends a chill up my spine.

There are several folks in the area that have those steel carports. I may go tomorrow and take a gander at them, as there is a dealer about 20 miles north of me. The ones I have looked at seem sturdy enough, and since they are not considered a permanent structure, don't raise my property taxes.

Another problem, at least here locally, is finding a decent body shop. There was one guy doing resto work who was very good, but he gave it up as it was more profitable doing collision. Too, and like it is pretty well everywhere, he could not find decent people. Either they didn't care about the quality of their work, or just plain wouldn't show up half the time. So it is just him, his wife, and son.

 

Thanks Abe. As I stated, I have a bunch of parts I need to install that are just lying around.

While there isn't really a money crunch, it makes me nervous the amount I have dumped into her of late, and the amount that really needs to be spent pretty quickly. I figure I need to fetch the rear in the next couple weeks, as it doesn't appear they are as plentiful as they were a few years ago. Can hold off on the ring and pinion kit for now.

The carport is pretty much a must-have also. Probably looking at $1500 or more for that.

The spring packs are another item that is going out of inventory in the suppliers I have looked at. The ones I called only had a few each in stock.

While it isn't a "critical" item, the money I spent for the lock cylinders and keys was almost a necessity if I wanted original, NOS parts. The matching set I found at Jesser's was the last one he had. I did a parts search using RearCounter and found that there were only three NOS ignition cylinders listed. You had to phone for a price quote (which means they won't come cheap), and they did not have the matched door locks.

I can put off the rebuild of the engine till later this winter. I do need to drive up to the shop I am considering using for an inspection. The build will probably set me back around $2500, maybe less. The engine only has 28K on it since I did the rebuild in 1990. The problem is the valves, as the shop didn't install hardened valves and seats. Still, I very likely will have to bore the block again, probably taking it to .040" over. Was bored to .030" in '90.

 

You need a complete rebuild after only 28 thousand miles and it was rebuilt in 1990? I would get a second opinion. If it's just your valves can you just do the top end? Or get a pair of new heads? Or one new head of you've got a 6 cylinder, I am not sure what you have.

 

It is definitely the valves Abe. In my distant past, I did a couple turns at a Ford dealership. Was a engine and driveability tech. Done a lot of rebuilds back then.

Compression is down on several cylinders, with #3 being the worst. Ran a compression check with oil in the cylinders, and there was no improvement, hence valve leakage.

I discussed this with the fellow at the shop I am taking the engine to. He admitted to me that most of the machine shops 30 and more years ago just didn't bother installing hardened valves and seats in engines that did not have them originally. It wasn't until the mid-1990s that shops began to wholesale install the seats and valves.

And that is the problem with Gertie. There was some question as to whether you really needed hardened seats back then. There isn't now.

So she at least needs a valve job, no question. To do that however, I need to pull the engine, as it is the venerable 239 flathead V-8. Engine has to go to the shop anyway, may as well go through it one more time and be done with it.

In the day, there used to be shops that would come out to your place and grind/cut your seats with the engine still in the vehicle (for flathead engines). They would then take the valves back to the shop and grind them there. They then gave the valves back to you, and you installed them and adjusted the lash yourself.

I don't have a seat cutter, and know of no one that has them anymore, much less a shop that will do the seats in situ.

 

Are you sure your engine doesn't have hardened seats already? They had them on both intake and exhaust until partway into '50. If you have a borescope, you can look thru the spark plug holes and see if you have them.

Do you have adjustable lifters?

 

JD, boy, what was I thinking! I was thinking Yblock when I was talking about heads.... Sorry bout that!

 

When I had the engine done, there were obviously no seats in it. I know this because of the two cracks in the block that had to be stitched. Both cracks went from cylinder to exhaust valves. I recall that when the block was stitched, they put in inserted seats in only those two cylinders, along with sleeving the bores.

And yes, it has adjustable lifters. However, if the problem is the lifters out of adjustment, it is probably too late to correct it now. The don't go very long leaking without damaging the seat and/or valve.

Beyond all the speculation about what or why the valves went is that additionally, I let the truck sit for about 13 years, never cranking it over, putting oil in the cylinders, etc. I believe that to some extent, I probably have damage to the cylinder walls and seats from corrosion (condensation).

Given the last, I really want to tear it down and see what it is like inside. Since I am now 59, and hopefully will live many more years, my focus is to get it exactly right one last time. Then only my heirs will have to worry about the condition of the engine. In the time I will drive it going forward from now, it should be smooth, care-free motoring.

 

That is absolutely OK. When I read the post, and knowing what trucks you own, I knew you were living in Y-block land.

 

And it's a great place to live! Speaking of Yblocks, today I ordered a set of valve cover gaskets for my 55. The valve covers are leaking oil badly. The gaskets must be shot. The sides of the engine are wet with oil.

 

That being the case, I wouldn't put another dime into a block that's both sleeved and stitched, and needs seats. You can easily get a good, solid block with hardened seats for less than the cost of bringing yours back to spec, and there won't be any concerns about further cracking.

 

I just got through reading about the Y-block family of engines on Wikipedia. Pretty interesting. The only experience I have had with the Y, is that my parents had a '62 Galaxie with one in it. Remember what it looked like, but that is about it.

Dad had a 55 1/2 ton Ford with a sick cylinder in it. He said it was a gutless wonder. He got a wild hair when a friend totaled his '64 Fairlane, and gave him the 289 and auto tranny. Dad shoehorned the engine, tranny, and rear axle into that little truck. Had to modify the rear rims due to differences in axle width. While Dad loved the truck's performance and power, it quickly became obvious it was not very practical. Wet and icy road conditions were frightful in that truck, as there wasn't any weight in the ****. He sold it after a couple years.

 

I have considered using another block Ross, and may even go that route. However, it is pretty much a hard fact that unless you find an NOS block somewhere, about all flathead V8s have cracks in them to varying degrees. For the most part, the cracks are harmless, and can be found around bolt holes. From my experience, and from what auto machine shop owners have told me over the years, finding a truly crack-free flathead is virtually impossible.

Another thing to consider, is that a "stitched" repair is viewed as a permanent one if done correctly. For one thing, the crack is stopped dead in its tracks when you drill it out at either end. Also if done correctly, after the machining of the deck and bore/seats, it is virtually undetectable. Apparently the stitching done on my engine was done properly, as I have never had any loss of coolant.

Lastly, sleeving of cylinders is also considered a proper repair. For decades, tractor and heavy engine manufacturers have produced sleeved engines as a matter of course. Engines such as those used in the smaller farm tractors with no sleeves installed, were called "throwaways". On something like a 239 with their tremendous cylinder wall thickness, boring and installing dry sleeves are very much worthwhile. For one thing, if you have wear in a cylinder, you just pull the sleeve and replace it. No boring, keep your old piston.

At the time I rebuilt the engine, it was more cost effective to just repair the block. It wasn't that there weren't any flathead blocks around, it was the problem of finding one that wasn't cracked. Most shops didn't stockpile flatties in those days, so I would have had to scrounge around the junkyards for another motor. Then I would have had to strip it and send it to the shop to check for cracks. If a crack was found, there was the problem that it may not be repairable. My block was a known quantity, and was pretty easy to repair, so I repaired it. Crank was near perfect, along with the cam, timing gears, rods, and I don't recall having to replace any valves. Oil pump was overhauled, new bearings, adjustable tappets, and pistons. That was it.

The shop in Greenfield, IN that I am looking at, has blocks in stock, and I will ask them about prices, then do a sort of cost/benefit analysis. It may be more beneficial to just replace the block. One of the things the owner told me though, was that about all the flatheads he has, and those that are brought in, are in pee-poor to terrible condition, and require considerable expense to rebuild. An engine like mine, that is in reasonable running condition, may be cheaper to rebuild.

I will just have to see how it all plays.