I am almost ready to start converting my van to a camper. I have been reading a good bit about the pros and cons of insulating the van and wanted to get some of you guys opinions.

I guess first is how I plan to use the van. I would say 2 or 3 week trips and probably mostly to the mountains when it's hot weather and south when its cold weather. So I wouldn't be trying to survive in a blizzard or desert full time.

I have read that if you insulate, then in hot weather, once the van heats up, it is much harder to cool down at night. So in other words, insulation can be a problem in hot weather.

As to cold weather, I guess it would require more propane to keep the van heated if it were not insulated. So I am thinking there has to be a balance and trade off between the two.

Condensation seems to be an issue in cold weather especially when using propane to heat.

I kind of like VanGuy Steves idea where he used the existing interior in place. I know my van has some fiberglass insulation behind the wall panels or at least around the window trims. I peaked under the ceiling panel and there was none in the ceiling.

I read where lots of people recommend reflectix but I have been reading unless you use it with a air gap, it will not work. If you apply it directly to the van walls it will simply transfer the heat inside.

What seems to be best, from what I have read, is to just remove the interior panels and cut/fit foam board insulation and reinstall the original panels.

I have also read that unless you are trying to survive in sub zero temps that insulating the floor does not accomplish that much compared to the plywood and carpet i already have.

So what are some ideas I might need to think about?

Thanks
Anna

Edit.
About condensation. I was reading where some people like to use a vapor barrier inside the walls over the insulation. I have also read that the metal exterior wall itself acts as a vapor barrier. SO if you use a vapor barrier inside, now you have two.. If there is condensation between the two then it cannot dry up.

 

Anna we all know you are very handy and I bet you’re also adventurous. So can you go one trip “as is” just to try it out? Or would the trips be too far away and cause problems if failed. ?

 

Well it has been 2 years since I went on a 2 week trip to the mountains. Back then I had a GMC conversion van and used it. Last year I used my 88 E150 for a week long trip to the same area. Both trips the temperatures were in the 90's here in the foothills and 75F up in the mountains during the day. So the summer trips to the areas I like to go are quite tolerable.

Perhaps I need to buy a MR Buddy propane heater and go on a trip here in the next month or so to see how it works in the cooler weather.

My van has a lot of glass in it and I should probably work on a way to insulate the ones I don't need and perhaps try some clear plastic over the windows I want to be able to see out. I know in a house with single pane windows, if you put plastic over them it stops most of the condensation. I am not sure how that would work on a metal frame van door window. I guess I will just have to try it and see.

I think the trick is to migrate.. Next Saturday morning it will be 35F here,,, 24F in my mountain area, and a nice 63F in Tampa!

 

When I was building out my van I camped in cold weather with no insulation then again with just reflex covering all the walls then final configuration with additional foam board glued to fiberboard.
The addition of just reflex made a huge difference. I know some people have written that reflex doesn't work without an air gap but it worked great for me. It also stopped all condensation problems.

Here's how I did it.:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8748149

For your windows cut out pieces of reflex. If you carefully make a custom reflex cover for each window they can be held in place by just friction fit. These covers do triple duty by helping keep out the cold but also can be used to keep sunlight out on hot days and work as privacy shades.

 

I found the floor to be an issue in the very few times I slept in my '85. Not sure what the right fix is, but the cold comes right through the floor. fwiw

 

Anna, I've been reading on the physics involved and think you'll be best served with a radiant barrier for your outer most layer. You may have seen this type at Lowe's or Home Depot. It comes in rolls 20-48" wide and looks like a bright aluminum foil with a tiny bubble-wrap backing. It's used primarily to insulate attic space and to wrap HVAC duct work to reduce loss through the duct wall by reflection. In your van you would install with the foil side facing the van's sheet metal to block incoming radiant heat. Sheet styrofoam for a 2nd layer would reduce heat and cooling loss for the interior. This product was a spin off of a NASA discovery. (scroll to the bottom of the article and read of the gymnasium fix) Hope this helps.

 

I remember following your build and thinking WOW great job. You also have the experience of using it as you went, that means allot!

The windows, mine have frames around them that will make it easy to install reflectix and perhaps close some of them off. I removed one of the trims a while back to check for leaks and they stuffed insulation around the window but none at the top! With all the glass in the van there is not that much wall space!



This is with the frame removed

 

I have started insulating mine. I highly recommend using the reflectix (the stuff from the home improvement store mentioned) directly on the inside of the bare metal. It works well because it has the air gap built into it with the air bubbles, plus the reflective material helps repel the heat from the outside sheet metal. Also put a layer of reflectix on the back of your interior trim panels. In between the 2 fill any openings with non-backed insulation that is used in walls. Many use the non-ich fiberglass. I choose to go with the recycled denim. I didn't like the idea of fiberglass dust in the cabin. Some put a vapor barrier between the trim panels and body panels.





Under the carpet on the floor I used 2 layers of commercial rubber roofing and another layer of carpet pad.

Use reflectix on the ceiling behind the headliner.

The reflectix will help with condensation since it will be a barrier between the cold metal and the warm air. Propane heat does produce water vapor during combustion, so ventilation also helps.

The insulation will keep the temperature in the van from changing quickly. So, yes, if it is hot in the van and cooler outside it would take longer for the cool temps to get into the van. This is easily fixed by opening a window or using a 12v fan to pull hot air out of the van.

For the windows, cut reflectix can work very well when temps are a little more extreme. In more mild temps, simply making custom curtains out of a semi-heavy material to cover the windows can work wonders. This is what I am doing in my van. If temps are too bad I will use the reflectix in the windows.



I would also suggest stuffing insulation into any dash cavities you can find as well as insulating the doghouse. Not sure if this would do a lot for temps, but it really helps quit down the cab while driving.

 

man I bet you have a lot of hours and dollars in your insulating project. Would you mind telling?

i bet your van is quiet as a Cadillac.

 

Yes the floor! I don't remember which van, my 85 or 88, but one of them has the plywood screwed down while the other must be glued down. I really don't want to take it up if it is glued down. Right now I can stand upright and my head touches the roof so anything I add will shorten that. I wonder if it would do any good to insulate from under the van with closed cell foam board in areas that are accessible? It could be screwed in place from underneath into the plywood above

 

Great article Jeffery, thanks. I wonder what glue to use that wont cause problems with the paint or off gas when hot.. Well I know many products off gas for a short time and then its ok.

 

WOW Jayro! Thanks! How long did it take you to do all of that? What did you use to glue the reflectix?

 

Well, it's an IDI Diesel with a c6 so quite is relative. It is SUBSTANTIALLY quieter in the cab than is was before the project. I am not completely done with it yet. All the doors are done, the dash, do house and floor. I still have the other wall cavities and roof to do. As far as $$, here is what I have so far:

Denim Unfaced Mat $60
Reflectix $40
Peel and Stick for Doghouse $50
Blackout Curtains $50
Rubber roofing $70

To finish will probably take another roll of reflectix and maybe some more Denim Mat. Overall the project will be about $350-400. Not terrible since I spread it out and wait for stuff on sale.

 

My son and I did the floor and the doghouse in a day.

The doors (reflectix and denim mat) and dash cavity in another day. Could have got more done that day, but I ran low on reflectix.

I used spray adhesive to attach the reflectix. Lightly sprayed the reflrctix and then the metal.

 

It looks like I have my work cut out for me to do this right...

What do you guys think about a solid fuel heater?
I mention this for a couple of reasons. I know propane causes condensation and uses a good bit of fuel unless you use something like the propex heater..
Using a wood heater would keep the air dry. Wood is everywhere and you can burn coal or charcoal in it.
The one I have been thinking about is called Tiny Tot. They also have one called Pet.
It is 6" in diameter, 9 1/2" high, the mounting base is 8 1/2" round and the whole thing weighs 13lbs. It requires a 3" flue pipe. People in the boating forums say it will heat for 4 to 5 hrs once you have a bed of coals..
It also has a cook top that can mount on top of it. The cook top is 9"x 14 1/2" and with the cook top the total height is 13" and weight is 24lbs..
It can be installed so it is easy to take out in warm weather. During cold weather it doubles as your cook stove.
A Coleman duel fuel stove is 17 x 14 x 7 inches.

http://www.fatscostoves.com/images/brochure.pdf

here is a video of the stove without the cook top added. All the boating forums say to use the stainless steel flue parts from Dickerson company which also builds boat heaters.
I called the company and they said it takes a minimum of 4' flue pipe to draft properly.