2013 F350 - 6.7L. Took into dealer because exhaust tips are wet/sooty and I have a slight whistle from Turbo when cold that goes away after warmed up. Dealer called and said my DPF needed replacement @ $4300.00. No emissions warranty cover this as truck is 11,500 GVW and the Ford Emission is 8/80 for up to 8500. I did not have dealer replace yet as I wanted to check further.

Using my TorqPro, I have been monitoring specific PIDS and what I see is that my DPF does NOT appear to be plugged/failing etc. Truck regens about every 300-400 miles and I always drive on freeway until it is completed and shuts off on TorqPro app(usually about 10-15 minutes) of driving. This is my daily driver but always is up to full operating temp etc by the time I get to work etc. Anyway my DPFP Pid shows 0.2psi at Idle, 1.4 to 2.1psi at freeway speed, SOOT level about 28% and Diesel Exhaust filter message on dash shows 30% so they are close. EGT's are all 460 - 560(11-14). Any other PIDs I should load up to verify further?

Anybody have similar results on their 6.7? Like a dummy I forgot to ask dealer about the Turbo whistle, but I notice a small oil leak coming from top of engine at the back. I believe I may have a turbo seal leaking causing my sooty exhaust tips? My oil level on truck has never dropped below the full mark more than the width of a pencil lead or 1/8" so I am really trying to get some input from you guys vs. spending over 4k on something that may not be needed. My dealer diesel tech is usually very good, but I don't think it got a very good or thorough check on my concerns. Thanks in advance.

 

Do you have any stored codes?

DTCs P2002, P244A, P2452, P2454, P2455, P2459, P245E, P2460, P2461, P2463, P246C, or P24A2

Ask the tech if he did a pinpoint test from the PCED (Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual) for the DPF. This is from the 2014, but I bet is still the same for 2013.

2014 PCED 6.7L Diesel SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests
Procedure revision date: 06/10/2013

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RB: Diesel Particulate Filter System RB: Introduction

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RB1 PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS
Note: For additional information on the particulate filter PIDs, refer to Section 1, Powertrain Control Software . Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration.

Note: If the PCM was reflashed, reprogrammed or replaced prior to entering this pinpoint test, drive the vehicle for 8 km (5 miles) to update the DPF PID data.

 

If it is a bad dpf I definitely wouldn't pay $4300 to put that garbage back on. Delete that junk for a little more than a quarter of that price and live a happy life.

 

No codes, all clear there. Thought about deleting but too many things make it so I don't want to. Expense of all the parts, tuner etc ( I know less than a new DPF). I also don't want it to smoke like it would if deleted. Our local emission laws in Utah are pretty tight and I don't want the hassle of finding someone to pass it. I did find an OEM Ford unit for $2,200 + core/shipping, but wanting to make sure it really is needed first.

I will go back to the dealer and ask about the pinpoint test. Nothing was shown on my service receipt about that or if the turbo was looked at.

 

I would have that leak addressed. Does not seem to me like the DPF needs attention right now.

 

My guess is the junior guy pulled the truck in, hooked it up to the computer, typed in the symptoms, and diagnosed it for the so called service adviser without a real diesel tech actually spending time on it.

I'm a glass half empty type, but I had an older truck diagnosed at a dealer for a chaffed wire I didn't have time to track down. The service advisor came back with a $4,000 estimate for items needed. I raised a stink and said I was taking my truck to a dealer who wasn't scared to let a diesel tech diagnose problems. They agreed to let their diesel guy look at it, and $200 later I was on the road with no more issues.

I personally don't know what the symptoms of a failed DPF are, but can't imagine they are too different than a catalytic converter. Also not sure about the 8/80 warranty only applying to under 8,500# vehicles. That might be worth also checking into.

In my mind, a failed DPF isn't going to cause oil leaks or excessive turbo whine. Whistle is usually from the intake side. I'd say time for a second opinion.

Besides, there are places that can bake out and clean a DPF for a fraction of what they quoted you if a plugged DPF really is your problem.

 

Soot at the tailpipe indicates a cracked CSF. I'd agree with their diagnosis. You can't have it cleaned, it's junk. Either replace or delete. If I were in your shoes I'd be looking for a stock tune with nothing more than dpf and egr delete. With a proper tune it shouldn't smoke. I have no desire to delete my truck either, but 4300 to replace the dpf or sub 2k to ditch it, I'd be leaning toward delete.

 

Not sure what a "CSF" is. I have the DPF and the SCR etc that is all one unit. I mentioned the turbo whistle when cold as I have heard a blown seal could cause oil into exhaust, hence the sooty tailpipe. CAC tubes are clean and not residue, I checked that. Anyone think my EGR might be ready to let go(plugged)? Not sure how to check if that is working okay other than I have no codes.

The 8/80 for up to 8500 GVW is verified and stated right in the Emission Enhanced warranty from Ford, otherwise for mine it ended at the 3/36 with it 11,500GVW.

Going to climb up in there with my scope camera and see if I can pinpoint the leak. Appreciate all the responses, anything helps.

 

You could order a new DPF and install it yourself. Price is approx $2500. Not sure how they come up with $4300 to install a new one.

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...wtdjgtZGllc2Vs

 

A DPF isn't just a one hit wonder. It's composed of multiple parts inside that one big canister. First you have the DOC, which is flow through. Next you have CSF (soot filter, or Ford calls DPF) which actually traps soot and converts it to ash during a regen. Exhaust gas is "filtered" and allowed out, but PM (soot and ash) is not. Over time the ash accumulation in the CSF will need to be baked out off the truck as it can only hold so much. This is where differential pressure readings come into play. Lastly, you have the SCR mixing tube and canister. All flow through. This is all contained in the "dpf" on a pickup. Heavy trucks and equipment have all separate pieces that can be separated for service.

Hence the "cracked" CSF. A properly functioning CSF will not allow any soot to reach the tailpipe. Or oil. Oil in the exhaust would make both the DOC and CSF sticky and ultimately useless, and also likely set DOC face plugging codes. But it's likely not oil. More likely just a cracked CSF that is pretty rare on these trucks but does happen.

A bit more research shows on pickups the soot filter is after the SCR, but C&C trucks it is immediately after the DOC, as found on most other applications. Either way, love or hate my terms, but you can replace CSF with DPF if you like. In my industry we call the complete DOC and CSF (soot filter) assembly the "DPF". We also use a complete seperate canister for SCR with the mixing tube joining the two. Variations in hardware, but the systems all work the same.

 

Or you Could look for Someone with a Low Mileage Truck who has deleted, and was willing to sell you the Complete DPF Assembly. I would keep an Eye on ebay

 

I would check the state around you Craigslist and at Auto Wreckers. You could find a DPF from someone who deleted or see if you can get one off a truck that was wrecked.

I'd think you could get one cheaper than what the dealer is asking if you didnt mind used

 

In Ca. wrecking yards aren't allowed to sell used cats, so I would assume DPFs would also apply.

 

There is a guy in Texas buying and selling complete units for a fraction of the new price. Probably figuring one day they will be worth gold when all states eventually fully test diesels. You can likely get an almost new one there for a few hundred dollars.

 

I would also flip out on the dealer - I don't know where 8 / 80 came from, the 10 / 100k on the emissions system is a Federal law. I would not just take that and walk out. I would speak to the service manager, if he gave me the same crap I would ask for a number in Detroit, if he didn't give me one I would find something online. I would continue working the phones until I got some kind of a reasonable answer as to why this isn't covered under the Federally mandated 10/100 emission system warranty. I might even figure out what Federal agency oversees this and shoot them an e-mail or give them a call.