86 F150 Steering Wheel Column Move When Pressing Clutch In
#1
86 F150 Steering Wheel Column Move When Pressing Clutch In
I installed the firewall repair bracket several months back, and I noticed when I press the clutch in, the steering wheel column moves down and to the left probably 1/32" or so. Does anyone else have this issue? Judging how everything us supported, I don't think there is a real way to fix the issue. I noticed it by chance when looking at the gap between the steering column, and the dash trim cover. The image below is not mine, (found it on the internet) but I wanted you to know the reference gap I was looking at.
I don't see it as an issue, but I wondered if anyone noticed it.
It requires a lot of pressure to push the clutch in, and it seems to put a lot of torque on the petal bracket which is directly tied to the steering column.
Thanks,
Cody
I don't see it as an issue, but I wondered if anyone noticed it.
It requires a lot of pressure to push the clutch in, and it seems to put a lot of torque on the petal bracket which is directly tied to the steering column.
Thanks,
Cody
#2
number of possibilities.
one is your pedal bushings may be shot excess force on the pedal will move the column.
the reinforcement plate in the engine bay has come unstuck from the fire wall. there willbe a crack around its perimeter ,not necessarily visable.
fix this soon to prevent further problems
one is your pedal bushings may be shot excess force on the pedal will move the column.
the reinforcement plate in the engine bay has come unstuck from the fire wall. there willbe a crack around its perimeter ,not necessarily visable.
fix this soon to prevent further problems
#3
number of possibilities.
one is your pedal bushings may be shot excess force on the pedal will move the column.
the reinforcement plate in the engine bay has come unstuck from the fire wall. there willbe a crack around its perimeter ,not necessarily visable.
fix this soon to prevent further problems
one is your pedal bushings may be shot excess force on the pedal will move the column.
the reinforcement plate in the engine bay has come unstuck from the fire wall. there willbe a crack around its perimeter ,not necessarily visable.
fix this soon to prevent further problems
Thanks
Cody
#4
I did a little looking under the hood, and found a 1/2" long crack in the seam sealer in the upper right corner of the reinforcement plate.
I am now wondering if I need to purchase and install the following reinforcement plate.
http://www.terrapinmfg.com/firewall%20fix.htm
I am now wondering if I need to purchase and install the following reinforcement plate.
http://www.terrapinmfg.com/firewall%20fix.htm
#5
That looks as a quality replacement for the FORD CAMPAIGN KIT E3TZ 7K044-B Firewall Reinf Kit no longer available from FORD.
There were two kits released, a smaller one and this one.
E3TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 83-87
E8TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 88-94
E3TZ 7K509-B Large Reinforcement Kit 83-94
There were two kits released, a smaller one and this one.
E3TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 83-87
E8TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 88-94
E3TZ 7K509-B Large Reinforcement Kit 83-94
#6
That looks as a quality replacement for the FORD CAMPAIGN KIT E3TZ 7K044-B Firewall Reinf Kit no longer available from FORD.
There were two kits released, a smaller one and this one.
E3TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 83-87
E8TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 88-94
E3TZ 7K509-B Large Reinforcement Kit 83-94
There were two kits released, a smaller one and this one.
E3TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 83-87
E8TZ 7K509-A Small Reinforcement Kit 88-94
E3TZ 7K509-B Large Reinforcement Kit 83-94
The problem is, it will lead to spending a lot more time and money on something I really do not want to invest in right now.
This scenario always happens, "while I have it apart I might as well fix this".
$500 dollars later and 2 months apart in the garage.
Thanks,
Cody
#7
I currently have the FORD OEM BRACKET E3TZ*7K509*A kit installed. It fixed the majority of the issue I was experiencing. Just noticed the steering column was slightly moving, and am wondering if it is necessary to go with the large repair bracket, or just leave it alone for now.
The problem is, it will lead to spending a lot more time and money on something I really do not want to invest in right now.
This scenario always happens, "while I have it apart I might as well fix this".
$500 dollars later and 2 months apart in the garage.
Thanks,
Cody
The problem is, it will lead to spending a lot more time and money on something I really do not want to invest in right now.
This scenario always happens, "while I have it apart I might as well fix this".
$500 dollars later and 2 months apart in the garage.
Thanks,
Cody
Didn't 1 of the kits plates have a bolt that came down from the top cowl area to keep that from happening?
1 of the reasons I don't want to go hydro clutch route if I don't have to.
Dave ----
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#8
Is that all! Add another zero at least and make that 2 years for mine so far. Only time I got to drive mine was a short (not good) test drive before I bought it and on/off the trailer into my garage.
Didn't 1 of the kits plates have a bolt that came down from the top cowl area to keep that from happening?
1 of the reasons I don't want to go hydro clutch route if I don't have to.
Dave ----
Didn't 1 of the kits plates have a bolt that came down from the top cowl area to keep that from happening?
1 of the reasons I don't want to go hydro clutch route if I don't have to.
Dave ----
I believe as KULTULZ stated above, the E3TZ 7K509-B Large Reinforcement Kit 83-94 it the one that the plate at the top that you are referring. It requires pulling the entire steering column to replace it.
I'm sure it would help stiffen up the area, but I don't know if it will stop the steering wheel from flexing down all the way. The base of the clutch pedal bracket bolts in with the same 4 bolts that hold the brake booster on. It also has a piece that comes down from the back of the cowl drain right under the windshield. that bolts near the front of the dash.
Like I said, mine flexes about 1/32". If this is normal, I don't want to spend the time and money tearing it apart trying to fix something that may not het any better.
You can kind of see what I'm talking in the link below.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6953815
Considering the large repair bracket does not attach to the clutch pedal bracket in any way, I am afraid it may not entirely solve the flex issue.
#9
I cant check mine for 2 reasons
1, column installed
2, mine being an 81 has good old school linkage.
The linkage type did not have issues with cracked firewalls.
Dave ----
Just a thought if you remove the linkage pin and master from the clutch master so you can check if the clutch pedal moves freely in the pivot bushings.
I had a brake pedal that was hard to press being power brakes. When rebuilding the car I found the brake pedal would not move freely because of rust & dirt.
This also lead me to find the clutch pedal plastic pivot bushings bad.
When pulling the assy. apart the brake pivot plastic bushings also got fubar.
I had fun making new ones as no one makes them for a manf. that went out of buss in 1988!
1, column installed
2, mine being an 81 has good old school linkage.
The linkage type did not have issues with cracked firewalls.
Dave ----
Just a thought if you remove the linkage pin and master from the clutch master so you can check if the clutch pedal moves freely in the pivot bushings.
I had a brake pedal that was hard to press being power brakes. When rebuilding the car I found the brake pedal would not move freely because of rust & dirt.
This also lead me to find the clutch pedal plastic pivot bushings bad.
When pulling the assy. apart the brake pivot plastic bushings also got fubar.
I had fun making new ones as no one makes them for a manf. that went out of buss in 1988!
#11
Thanks,
Cody
#12
As for the plastic you do have to take care removing them but I did not break any and 1 truck was a roll over so it was all twisted and a lower roof line.
Picture of the restored dash going back in last weekend.
I have a few more things to do under the dash in that area before I put the column back in.
Dave ----
#13
I pulled 2 81 trucks apart right down to the firewall and never had a screw strip.
As for the plastic you do have to take care removing them but I did not break any and 1 truck was a roll over so it was all twisted and a lower roof line.
Picture of the restored dash going back in last weekend.
I have a few more things to do under the dash in that area before I put the column back in.
Dave ----
As for the plastic you do have to take care removing them but I did not break any and 1 truck was a roll over so it was all twisted and a lower roof line.
Picture of the restored dash going back in last weekend.
I have a few more things to do under the dash in that area before I put the column back in.
Dave ----
What about the column, how hard was it to remove?
Never touched one before.
Thanks,
Cody
#14
#15
In addition to the reinforcement bracket, I really need a replacement steering column seal. Mine The tab on the right side was rusted off, and the rubber was eaten up by a clutch leak. I patched everything up, but considering I just purchased a repair bracket, I really would like a replacement.
I believe the p/n is EOTZ-3513-A, and my local junk yard does not have one.
Can someone help me locate one, or is willing to sell me one they are not using?
Thanks,
Cody
I believe the p/n is EOTZ-3513-A, and my local junk yard does not have one.
Can someone help me locate one, or is willing to sell me one they are not using?
Thanks,
Cody