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Well after I threw the motor together and shoved her back in, the performance is really awesome. In a nutshell I did studs, o-ringed heads, Warren 175/30's, ADII, RR and I already had the stage II from Charlie over at KC turbos and full fuel tunes written by Matt at Gearhead. Running the full fuel SRL the EGT's climb quick and taper in the higher RPM's once the stage II cleans it up.
To be honest I wish I knew the HP but I can only assume I am somewhere in the low 400's.....and that is a GUESS for sure.....unless someone thinks different.
With that said, I am considering a better flowing air filter and wanted some advice from those that noticed some EGT drops with a better flowing filter.
If it would fit I would be happy to trade you what I have here for your.
I can bet better photos of it later if you like to talk about it.
It has the horn that sticks through the core support like stock
and also a scope that goes between the hood and core support.
It has the cone type filter in it.
Well after I threw the motor together and shoved her back in, the performance is really awesome. In a nutshell I did studs, o-ringed heads, Warren 175/30's, ADII, RR and I already had the stage II from Charlie over at KC turbos and full fuel tunes written by Matt at Gearhead. Running the full fuel SRL the EGT's climb quick and taper in the higher RPM's once the stage II cleans it up.
To be honest I wish I knew the HP but I can only assume I am somewhere in the low 400's.....and that is a GUESS for sure.....unless someone thinks different.
With that said, I am considering a better flowing air filter and wanted some advice from those that noticed some EGT drops with a better flowing filter.
Any opinions are welcomed.
thanks
Joe
Stock filter is the best. One company did significant testing and found that the stock Donaldson Filter outperformed every other aftermarket filter. Can't remember the source, i'm sure somebody will quote me.
Not sure I am ready to swap just yet....sounds like a nice setup....why back to stock?
Originally Posted by Yahiko
If it would fit I would be happy to trade you what I have here for your.
I can bet better photos of it later if you like to talk about it.
It has the horn that sticks through the core support like stock
and also a scope that goes between the hood and core support.
It has the cone type filter in it.
Very interesting indeed......now we are talking about the OEM filter correct....made by Racor?
No, the stock filter was designed and supplied by Donaldson, following the same intent as they did for military air filters with their PowerCore filtration. They now have a newer version of PowerCore, but even the first is pretty damn good for filtration and life. I’ve been able to run one over 100k. If I could put that filter on my tractors I would in a heartbeat.
I’ve got in my book to change it at 3lbs accumulated or air minder.
Here's a link to something I posted on another thread. Interesting to note that in some of the searching I did to find some definitive testing, there were some threads in other forums about the CFM requirements of our motor and that you had to get over 3700 rpm to see the benefit of some of these "higher flow" filters.
Someone will have to correct me here: but my basic understanding of an internal combustion piston engine is that it essentially is an air pump with a given volume of "air" in each cylinder based on it's stroke x diameter (plus the compression variable, which includes the turbo). So, if all else remains the same, the only thing that changes the volume of air consumed is the rpm, and we are redlining at 3700ish...
Ok, feel free to tell me all the ways I am wrong here
I think with a Stage 2 turbo and higher flow sticks with tuning you should be well past 400hp. You might be knocking on the door of the "500 hp" myth that I've read multiple times with no backup data that factory filters are good for. I don't know much other than some pretty knowledgeable guys that work on a lot of trucks and also race and pull with them run AFE and S&B and don't seem to think they will ruin their motors.
Here's a link to something I posted on another thread. Interesting to note that in some of the searching I did to find some definitive testing, there were some threads in other forums about the CFM requirements of our motor and that you had to get over 3700 rpm to see the benefit of some of these "higher flow" filters.
Someone will have to correct me here: but my basic understanding of an internal combustion piston engine is that it essentially is an air pump with a given volume of "air" in each cylinder based on it's stroke x diameter (plus the compression variable, which includes the turbo). So, if all else remains the same, the only thing that changes the volume of air consumed is the rpm, and we are redlining at 3700ish...
Ok, feel free to tell me all the ways I am wrong here
I have been in contact with guys that do the same and they claim I could benefit from a better flowing intake (straight mandrel pipe to a large AFE filter) and that is where I am torn.
I highly doubt I am anywhere near the 500 mark.....and I really don't care to be honest. I built the motor up for dependability and added certain components for longevity performance.
There is a company I found that sells the plumbing and I have AFE make a filter (they offer the service and its inexpensive). I can have a similar setup for 150 less than the NO LIMITS setup....which I think is WAY OVERPRICED for what you get.
JMO
Joe
Originally Posted by akblackfoot
I think with a Stage 2 turbo and higher flow sticks with tuning you should be well past 400hp. You might be knocking on the door of the "500 hp" myth that I've read multiple times with no backup data that factory filters are good for. I don't know much other than some pretty knowledgeable guys that work on a lot of trucks and also race and pull with them run AFE and S&B and don't seem to think they will ruin their motors.
09-22-2017, 07:42 PM
