67 SWB Build
#1
67 SWB Build
I started to finally tear into the truck. Going to pull the motor, trans, and front suspension this week.
Plans are CV front swap, explorer rear, fresh interior, and some 18" steel wheels with a good size lip in the rear.
Picking up the CV front this weekend.
Pics of the truck as it sits now:
I have a few questions, hoping you guys could help...
Which rear gear should I look for in the explorer rear? Truck has a c6 in it.
I have read dozens of CV swap threads, but I don't recall anyone going into detail about how they maintain power steering. Can I use the stock PS pump and hook into the new rack?
Thanks
Plans are CV front swap, explorer rear, fresh interior, and some 18" steel wheels with a good size lip in the rear.
Picking up the CV front this weekend.
Pics of the truck as it sits now:
I have a few questions, hoping you guys could help...
Which rear gear should I look for in the explorer rear? Truck has a c6 in it.
I have read dozens of CV swap threads, but I don't recall anyone going into detail about how they maintain power steering. Can I use the stock PS pump and hook into the new rack?
Thanks
#2
Explorer 8.8" rear end ratio/differential code list.
Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes
'95-'01 Explorers will have disc brake rear ends. '94-earlier will have drum brakes on the rear.
Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes
'95-'01 Explorers will have disc brake rear ends. '94-earlier will have drum brakes on the rear.
#3
#4
Basically. The truck will keep the 352 and C6 in it for a couple of years. Down the road will either be a lightning swap or coyote.
But, for the 352/C6 setup, I don't want to go too high of a gear. Truck will be a cruiser.
#5
When you say, "too high of a gear," do you mean high numerically?
A 2.75:1 ratio would be considered a high gear ratio. A 4.11:1 ratio would be considered a low gear ratio. --low number is "high," high number is "low."
If you plan to swap to a more modern engine and an overdrive transmission down the road, a lower gear ratio in the rear end (3.55, 3.73, 4.10 in an 8.8") would be the best choice now and you wouldn't have to go through the hassle then of swapping out gears. Gear swaps aren't as easily accomplished with an 8.8" as they are with a 9-inch.
A 2.75:1 ratio would be considered a high gear ratio. A 4.11:1 ratio would be considered a low gear ratio. --low number is "high," high number is "low."
If you plan to swap to a more modern engine and an overdrive transmission down the road, a lower gear ratio in the rear end (3.55, 3.73, 4.10 in an 8.8") would be the best choice now and you wouldn't have to go through the hassle then of swapping out gears. Gear swaps aren't as easily accomplished with an 8.8" as they are with a 9-inch.
#6
Yea, I meant too "low" of a gear. The current combo will stay in it long enough that I don't want to pick gearing based on the future drivetrain swap. With the c6, I would assume I need to look for a 3.27 gearing, but I'm not sure if that gearing was available with a locker rear in those years...
I have built a couple of 8.8's in my mustang. I am familiar with them.
With the CV swap and the 352, what oil pan will I need to run??
Going to Tunica Saturday for a big car show...hoping to find a good swap meet there.
I have built a couple of 8.8's in my mustang. I am familiar with them.
With the CV swap and the 352, what oil pan will I need to run??
Going to Tunica Saturday for a big car show...hoping to find a good swap meet there.
#7
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#8
Interesting. The guy I bought it from said he had the transmission replaced, but he talked as if he just put back in what was in there originally. I will pull some numbers off of it and see what trans comes up to verify.
#9
#10
Got some more done tonight. Got all the cab bolts out, and the front mount pockets were PACKED with dirt, but don't appear to be rusted too bad.
I also got the power steering pulled, is this worth anything to anyone? I don't plan on using it with all the other things I will be doing....
Also, I noticed that the engine mounts and trans crossmember are bolted in rather than riveted, and the engine mount on the driver side had been notched with a torch to make way for the power steering.
This leads me to believe someone swapped this motor in, and the truck was probably an I6 to start out.
I also got the power steering pulled, is this worth anything to anyone? I don't plan on using it with all the other things I will be doing....
Also, I noticed that the engine mounts and trans crossmember are bolted in rather than riveted, and the engine mount on the driver side had been notched with a torch to make way for the power steering.
This leads me to believe someone swapped this motor in, and the truck was probably an I6 to start out.
#11
#12
Thanks Jeff. I'm on vacation next week, so this build will pick up pace after that. I've located all the suspension pieces and just need to pick them up.
#13
Things are picking up on the 67. Ordering the crush tubes for the cv swap tonight, and will finish getting it bolted in next week.
Pics:
CV swap picked up
Got the cab off
Only holes drilled are for the centering pins at this point. Plan is to get the CV swap finished up, and motor mounts done next weekend.
This thread will be seeing weekly updates now that parts are rolling in. I will need to order all new cab mount hardware and bushings, plus radiator support and bushings and hardware for that.
If anyone sees anything they would like to correct me on, let me know. So far having a ton of fun building this truck.
Pics:
CV swap picked up
Got the cab off
Only holes drilled are for the centering pins at this point. Plan is to get the CV swap finished up, and motor mounts done next weekend.
This thread will be seeing weekly updates now that parts are rolling in. I will need to order all new cab mount hardware and bushings, plus radiator support and bushings and hardware for that.
If anyone sees anything they would like to correct me on, let me know. So far having a ton of fun building this truck.