Looking to upgrade my ignition system and looking for some suggestions from those who know better than I.
The truck is set up with an Offy "C" intake dual EFI exhaust manifold and a Holly 2300 350 cfm carb. It has a slightly updated exhaust to fit. Currently looking at getting a PerTronix module but was curious if I should upgrade the distributor and plug wires while I am at it. Perhaps just a distributor cap. What would be best ignition setup for a daily driver light tow application?

 

I would say what you are looking at is a good start but you have the Holley carb, not that you cant.

So a little hotter spark would be nice so a DSII would be nice but..... the wiring can be hard to come by in junk yards but you might get lucky and find a complete set up.

So II, an HEI made for the 300 six with the plug wires. Thing is you have to have a full 12 volts to it to work. To do this use the stock IGN wire to trigger a relay to send the full 12 volts to the HEI dist.
Dave ----

 

I am looking at this DUI distributor https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...67/model/f-250 your saying I would have to run my IGN wir to a relay for there to be 12 volts at the dist? Would updating the distributor cap and adding a PerTronix module provide the desired spark temp?

 

I have not used a PerTronix kit but have only heard good things of them.


Now to get a hotter spark you have to have higher voltage input to the system.


Now that I think of it the PerTronix may also need a full 12 volts. Because your truck uses a resistor wire with the stock points it may need a relay set up for the full 12 volts.


So both the stock Ford DSII and the HEI both need a full 12 volts to get the hot spark out of them.
At that point I would pick what is less $$ and easy to install but lets see what others have to say.
Dave ----

 

Do you know of any negative sides to removing the resistor wire or bypassing it? Will there be an unfiltered amount of volts running through my electrical system at all times burning up lesser inputs and outputs as it goes?

Thanks for your feedback, it is much appreciated.

 

I think the biggest liability would be shorter coil life. Having said that, it was discovered on an older model Ford (Capri w/ a 2.6L V6 as I remember) that somehow the 'resistor bypass' and the 'run' wires were switched in the wiring harness meaning the engine cranked on 6 volts instead of 12 and it ran on 12 volts instead of six. Number of complaints / warranty repairs: ZERO.

 

see answers below.

Only if he keeps the stock system and bypasses the resistor wire.
Most of the after market upgrades need full 12 volts to run. Because of that it is made to send the right voltage to the coil and not burn it up.



S.S.C., removing the resistance wire from the main harness would be a PITA as you have to open it up to remove.
If you were to run a wire on the outside of the harness bypassing the resistor wire can be done and other than running the wire from the IGN switch to the unit needing full 12 volts under the hood not too bad.


As for " unfiltered amount of volts running through my electrical system" you will not as that resistor wire is only for the IGN system and is for nothing else.


BTW when you start your truck the way it is wired and FTF pointed out a little, the system sends a full 12 volts to the IGN system for faster starts.
Dave ----

 

FTF??? Last night it fired up but had a mad surge of power and when I went to turn it off it kept running even with the key out I had to remove the negative battery terminal. Now it won't turn over or engage at all. What do I need to be looking for here? Have you every had experience with a motor surging like that?

 

FTF=french town flyer
What did you do to it before the surge and no shut off?
Something had to be done to it to cause that.
Is the fuel system stock?
How but electrical mess with any switches?
Dave - - - -

 

I had the wires switched around on the ignit. coil. Burnt up my starter. everything is stock aside from the ignit. coil, the manifolds and carb and the exhaust. All wiring and OEM.