I need some help with the running board hardware and plates. I ordered the new reinforcement plates no problem however the hardware and small plates on either end of the boards are shot. I have been to all the normal sources for hardware except the stealership. They want $6+ per t bolt and there are 28 of them total and the end plates aren't available any longer.

What have you guys done with this issue?

Thanks

 

personaly if you got 1 plate that can be removed id have new ones fabricated but if you dont have acces to metal fab or cant do the metal work could take 1 plate pay for the metal and have a metal shop build you new ones or if you got a friend that can do the welding and bending as for bolts id imagen if you got 1 bolt you could match the treading with another bold from a hardware shop like napa or any retail shop down those lines

 

For the bolts I went to 4 places including fastenal and they all didnt have them. Oddly enough they are almost the exact same thing as a toilet mounting bolt. I will see if I can find someone to fab the brackets up but at that point should I just go aftermarket? I like the OEM boards but don't want to spend $500 on them.

 

The hardware is just bolts and speednuts. You can get both at any auto parts store. You don't need an exact match, you just need a 3/4" long bolt with the right diameter and thread pitch.

I'm not sure what you mean by smaller end plates though. Mine just has 4 L-shaped brackets that bolt to the rocker.

 

this site might be able to help for parts since not sure of year you need https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...20Liter-DIESEL

 

Yes in the diagram on that link I need parts 7 and 8 which are end plates to protect the bulb sockets on both ends of the running boards.

My boards are held on to 5 L shaped brackets by 10MM t-bolts(#4) in the link above. There are 14 bolts per side and those bolts are $6+ per bolts. They drop into a channel in the running board reinforcement and the T keeps them from spinning. Like these below.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...RoCQjMQAvD_BwE

 

id assume that if you found bolts of proper length and tread or just buy nuts to fit the bolts bought you could have the head of the bolt grinded into a T shape to fit within the channels to hold the bolt from turning

 

Yours uses T-bolts???

They changed the design then. Mine is held on with ordinary grade 5 hardware and speed nuts. I could replace them all, both sides, for probably $15 total.

 

Same here. So was my 2002 F250, so is my '99 F250, and so was my son's 2000 F350.

What year is your Ex?

Stewart

 

I used 1/4" galvanized carriage bolts to replace the tee bolts. Worked fine. don't remember the length. use an impact gun and the bolts will create a "new" fit.

 

I just might be able to get all those parts for you for free. I will be back out at the Gold Mine next Monday, and I will let you know. I am 90% sure all of what you are asking for is there and just laying about...rust free.

 

anybody got a lead on the metal supports that run under the plastic?

my bolts and the "L" brackets are in decent shape. but that metal substructure is rotted out completely. I like these running boards and want to repair. Take-Off steps from a F-250 are stupid expensive

 

Tylus, those are also out here, but it would be very expensive to ship to you.

 

I can only imagine. I'm hoping someone has sourced/DIY repaired in past. going to do some digging and see what substitute I can find

 

First you need to know the plastic "skin" that covers the metal skeleton has plastic studs that hold it onto the metal skeleton. 9 times out of 10 those plastic studs break off or strip when you try to remove the metal skeleton from plastic skin.

Even if metal skeleton is completely rusted out the metal nuts will still be attached to the plastic studs, and will cause issues. Once too many plastic studs are broken or stripped, there is no way to secure the skin to the skeleton.

Than the metal bolts that hold the braces on the metal skin have square nuts that are inside metal skeleton. If skeleton is too rusted those nuts will spin making removal of braces from skeleton very difficult. The same for the metal light protection plates on front and rear of each board. If that's not bad enough you cannot get to all of the plastic studs with the braces still attached. So you cannot remove the skin to get to t nuts to remove the braces and you cannot get to t nuts to hold them because skin still on.

Maybe hours with a drimmell, fine cutting might do the trick....but watch out for plastic studs and wiring harness.

I tore mine appart to do a complete rebuild........epic failure!!!

I bought used factory running boards from my area mountain west....no rust here. About $100 each shipped.

Be aware that in 2000 models the running board light plug for both sides is up front just behind front wheels. 2001 and later have the plug for the passenger side in rear, just in front of rear tire. If you buy 2000 boards for a 03 you will have to disassemble entire board to reverse the wiring harness......with broken plastic studs. And vice versa. So make sure the light harness plugs are in correct location for your X.

GET A GOOD SET OF USED BOARDS!!!