OK I am almost ready to lift this cab off. A couple of snags:

1. can't get brake line off of the master cylinder and don't want to cut it. Would heating with a hair dryer help?

2. the wiring harness connectors are hard as hell to separate; have broken some of the side clips. WD-40 seems to help a little, but again, would heating help?

 

The clips are going to break, no way to prevent it. Just break them off and keep going. They usually stay together without the clips and if you are worried about it, a wire tie will hold them together.

The nut is stripped on on the fitting going to the master? If this is the problem, the best way I have found to get them off is a large pair of vise grips. Pick a spot on the nut, and clamp down on it pretty good. Then break it loose. If you clamp down on it only in one spot, then that usually ruins very little of the nut and you can still get a wrench on several of the flats. If the line is rusted to the nut, there is nothing you can really do except keep using penetrate oil and keep working with it, or go ahead and twist it off and make up a new line.

The vise grip method sounds crude, but it always seems to work. I suspect it's because the vise grips deform the fitting a little bit when you squeeze it, and this helps break it loose.

 

thanks Franklin2! there's no nut; the line just slips over there; doesn't seem that safe so I think I'll probably just cut it and a fitting later. Thanks; will proceed as you suggest with the clips!

 

Yea what Franklin said on both.


Now I got to ask that picture of the "master" is not the brake master but the clutch master.
IIRC not all clutch system use a nut type line and would say most I have seen posted don't.
On that I want to say there is a "clip" or pin of some sort that needs to be removed before the line can be pulled out.
Someone that knows more about it may post up how it comes apart.


Cant you pull the pin from the rod & pedal then unbolt the clutch master from the fire wall?
Dave ----

 

Yes, I missed the clutch master cylinder picture. There is a pin you drive out to pull the line. You would probably be better off disconnecting the whole thing from the cab and just let it hang there.

 

On the clutch master cylinder, you see that small hole just below the hose connection point.

Using like a 1/16" or 1/8" drill bit(not the cutting end) or punch carefully tap out that roll pin, be ready to capture it as it usually will pop out and fall away. Then turn that hose back and forth while pulling it out. They usually pop out with no problems.

Now if it don't want to pop out and the clutch system does still work. Pump the clutch pedal hard a few times and that hose will usually pop out.

 

BEST thing is to remove the whole clutch hyraulic system as a unit, and re-install after the swap. Keep the master above the slave while in storage. This avoids any painful bleeding.... of the hydraulics or of your head from banging it on the wall....

You MIGHT also get away with removing the clutch master from the firewall and just supporting it in the engine compartment, then installing it on the new cab. That at least keeps the slave attached to the fork.

 

guys thank you SO much! yes, for sure I will disconnect clutch pedal and let that clutch master hang out there!