1983 250...351w
Hasn't been a good day..I've had a coolant leak coming from the water passage in my timing chain cover and this week I decided to fix it. The long bolt on the water pump that goes through the timing chain cover and goes into the engine block was snapped off. Broke everything down and saw I had a little **** sticking out where the bolt broke off. Tried a bunch of different methods including heat and vice grips which got me no where. Then tried turning it with a screw driver and a hammer which ultimately snapped the bolt off flush with the engine block...The only option I was left with was trying a bolt extractor. Started with the smallest bit I had and progressively worked up bit sizes. When I got to the 1/8" bit-it snapped-inside the bolt. From what I have researched I really can't do much else since the bit is hardened steel. All the recommendations I found said that a machine shop with a diamond tip bit is the only thing that can get it out. Considering the truck is obviously not operational I'm look at a pretty hefty towing expense and who knows how much it will be to get the bolt out at the shop.
Anyone else have this happen? If you don't mind sharing how you tackled this problem it would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks.

 

Been there recently: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1439426-my-new-to-me-1983-f-250-a.html

Take a look. Lots of headache for sure but got through it.

 

Position a large flat washer centered over the broken shank. Weld the washer to the stub. Then weld a nut to the washer. Then use an impact gun on a low setting to hopefully break it free. Slowly increase the torque setting as needed. I have had very good results with this method.

After that, put your screw extractors in a lockable metal box. Put the key on a string and suspend it into the middle of a gallon milk jug filled with water. Put the jug in the freezer and leave it there. Next time you are considering using a screw extractor, it will take at least an hour to melt the ice and retrieve the key. This will give you plenty of time to determine if you should be using a screw extractor for the problem at hand.

I don't mean to be adding insult to injury, but screw extractors are only appropriate for removing a free-running fastener. If a bolt was seized bad enough to break off the head, you won't be able to apply enough torque with a screw extractor. You'll end up with a broken screw extractor in the stuck bolt, similar to the broken drill bit you currently have.

 

Glad to know I'm not alone...on that page you said you couldn't find anything that would drill out easy out or drill bits. I've found something online called "rescue bit" they are pretty pricey however--I know your problems are long over but maybe for the future.

kr98664..haha good to know-I do not have any welding equipment--I'm new to this truck repair game..just looked up a mobile service-they have a 120$ min which would almost buy me a cheap gasless welder..but I have no experience and I'm guessing you have to be pretty precise to get the washer to seat when its sitting flush with the engine block..so maybe hiring a welder wouldn't be a bad option considering a machine shop will prob charge me that just to get it out.

 

Good one!


When removing a broken bolt, it is important to drill all the way through the bolt to relieve the internal pressure.

 

Extractors are good for bolts that have broken off for other reasons besides corrosion. The only way you can get that bolt out is to carefully center punch the middle, and then slowly drill it out, starting small and working up just like you did, till you get to the proper size drill bit, and then take a tap and start working it in and out to get the last remaining bits of the bolt out of the threads.

Since you were doing that and then broke a bit, all you need to do is order a carbide tipped bit and drill the broken bit out. Here's one place you can get one.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-ti...-bits/=190aagz

 

I have been in this exact situation myself with a 351W with the water passage crossover in the intake manifold, a PO overtightened & snapped a hold-down bolt which he tried to cover up by severely overtightening the OTHER side + piling all sorts of goo in a tube over it... this worked for "a while" before it failed.

I removed the heads and took them to a machine shop, there are all sorts of methods & tools available to deal with this broken-bolt stuff these days, just look at some of the options presented here in this thread. Dealing with a BLOCK, however, is more difficult....

 

From the Day Late & Dollar Short department, when drilling out a broken bolt, I like to use a guide to keep the drill centered. Hmm, where can one get a guide for that? Use whatever item was retained by the broken bolt. Secure it to the block using the other bolts.

Starting with a small bit as suggested, fabricate a guide bushing to fit snugly into the hole. In a pinch, I've even used a short piece of metal tube wrapped with heavy foil tape. The bushing will help keep the bit centered and straight, which also (caution: salt in wound ahead) reduces the risk of breakage.

 

I have not seen it said of using reverse drill bits.
I have a set I use just for drilling out broken bolts and can say only used them 1 or 2 times.
Dave ----

 

Reverse bits are good for situations that also work well with easy outs. Sorry to say that in this situation with the bolt corroded into the block, it's almost impossible to get the bolt to turn out by the normal methods. Usually when you are drilling it out larger and larger, when you get near the od of the bolt you are drilling rust powder and corrosion more than metal.

On the centering part for the drill, that is the most difficult and critical part of the whole process. I usually start with the very small bit after I center punch it, and I keep a close eye on it as I start. Before the small bit gets too deep you can move the drill around to "steer" the small bit over till it looks as centered as you can get it. Once you get that small hole centered well, it's very easy to just open it up with the larger bits. Even if you are off a little bit, you will still have enough threads left that a new bolt will hold fine.

Repairing broken bolts has a little learning curve to it. It's going to be difficult for someone who has never done it to get it out the first time with no trouble. I have been a mechanic in a factory for years and have had lots of practice. And each situation is different. So don't get discouraged if it doesn't work very well the first time you do it.

 

That "Rescue Bit" posted above, looks like a must have tool - unless it is rediculously expensive.


If it can cut through an easy-out that "easily" I need one (and hopefully will never use it).


Its like one of those kitchen knives that cuts through cans and shoes - who doesn't do that all the time

 

Well, they aren't giving 'em away:



Judging by the price, the manufacturing process apparently requires unicorn tears.

 

I've successfully used a carbide burr with a rounded tip to bore through broken drill bits and extractors before. This is the one I like, I always keep a few of these in my tool box:


They are 1/4" though so you can't use them if the thread size in the hole is smaller, but the bolts on the timing cover are 5/16" so if you're careful it should be safe.

 

My engine guy sent my heads out when I brought them to him (I had also tried to drill out a bolt and damaged that hole, an insert was installed into that one), they used some electrolysis-type of thing with electrical charges (static electricity? I forget) and the bolt basically disintegrates leaving the original hole intact.

Two heads each with a broken off intake manifold attaching bolt, it sucked.

But it's not cheap.

 

This page has some good examples of electro-discharge machining. This uses some highly specialized equipment:

HOW TO EXTRACT BROKEN STUDS, DRILLS, BOLTS

I wonder how a static electricity version would work. Maybe you could rig up a piece of carpet to shuffle across, and then you touch a doorknob wired to the broken bolt. Probably not as fast, but a lot more affordable.