My 83 F250 has not ran in 16 years. The motor is out being rebuilt and I need to go through the fuel system. I need to pull both fuel tanks, and if rusty inside replace them with new. I am wondering if it would be easier to pull the bed off the frame to access the tanks, fuel line, wiring harnesses etc? I have never pulled the bed off a full size truck so I thought I should ask before embarking on this next adventure. Looking for advice....and a warning of any specific perils.....

 

It's always easier to have things out of the way. But the truck is designed so you can remove the tanks without removing the bed. The tank straps are removed from the underside. If the bed is nice (good paint) I would leave it alone so not risk scratching it, or worse, trying to remove it.

But if you do pull the bed, it is a good time to inspect everything and deal with any frame rusting and cleanup.

 

thanks Mike, The truck is an original paint one owner from Sacramento CA and there is no rust to speak of that I have found. The frame and underneath are both pristine at the time but I plan on driving the truck here in Ohio so I imagine if I do pull the bed I will want to paint the frame to protect it. I will be surprised if the tanks are not rusty though given the length of time the truck has sat without running. The sending units, and fuel pump are both shot as well. I may also replace all the fuel lines too.

 

It all depends on ground clearance and how you feel about working on your back. Myself, I drop the tanks, I even have skids plates surrounding them (1981 F350 4x4). Yours sounds in decent enough shape that maybe some penetrating oil and a decent battery-operated drill driver and you'd be set.

Rust would come from water, do you live in a humid environment? Please go finish filling out your profile so we can see where you're from.

In any event, I'm in the Colorado desert with very little humidity, it's more likely to find cobwebs than anything out here.

 

I live in Southwest Ohio. Water is not the main concern....the salt they put on the road and the crap they spray a day before a storm is what concerns me. I will most likely have it undercoated after everything is repaired and I get the truck on the road.


I bought a one owner Jeep Comanche out of Denver a couple of years ago. That truck came apart without having to use one drop of PB blaster on anything. Incredible. The black paint was baked to a nice white chalk cover though. That truck's fuel tank was full of fuel for the past 15 years and still has fuel in it. I dropped it and left it full until I get the motor back in it. No idea what it will look like inside.

 

Yeah, I know exactly what you mean; I wander around the JY looking for parts my father's mid-90s Explorer and it's real easy for me to determine if a car was local or from elsewhere (rust belt, etc.) simply by looking at the amount of corrosion underneath. We also have that Magnesium Chloride stuff they put on the roads these days, I guess it's better than the straight salt/sand mix that destroys vehicles in 10 years.

Anyhow, I guess my point is, speculating what may be inside of a tank is only speculation, you won't really know until you open it up and look inside....

Thanks for finishing your profile, reps for that.

 

My truck has dual tanks and all the complication that comes with it. I am thinking about getting this tank to replace both, no more complication. I will have to relocate the spare tire. It will also free up room for different exhaust options on the driver's side.

 

When you drop the tank if it's not completely rotten use this to restore it:


POR 15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit


This stuff is great. I have a kit to restore the front tank on my 86 f250 and I will buy another one for the rear tank. While the tank is down you can also brush paint the exterior with standard POR 15 or even Rust-o-leum. There are many other manufacturers that make the same type of kit. I think you can order it on Amazon and through Summit too.


I did this restoration on my 71 Olds 98 and it worked wonders. Just make sure you wear a respirator (not a dust mask). This stuff is death in a can!

 

thanks....

 

Bringing this back up for a progress report. I pulled both tanks today and each has about three gallons of fuel in them. Amazingly there is zero rust inside and the tanks are in great condition so I will be reusing them. I plan on running some carb cleaner thru the fuel lines, replacing the fuel filter, a few pieces of fuel line and the tank fill hoses both are cracking so I will replace both of them. I also will be installing new lift pumps in both tanks. The only concern I have is if I need to replace the “selector” valve mounted to the frame? So far the only issue I have found is a gel like substance in the main return line. I am not sure if I should try to flush the valve or not.

 

I think I would try and flush the valve if I could.
You did everything else why skip the valve?
Dave ----

 

I agree but with it being an electrical component I am not exactly sure how to do that while not ruining it. It is a 300.00+ part.

 

Flush the valve with what? I would be afraid of any strong chemicals in it.

 

I am going to put power to it and see it if works then spray some carb cleaner in the inlet lines to clean out any gelled fuel. If it doesn’t work I found out today I can buy a replacement manufactured by Standard for about 70.00.

 

That sounds like a good plan.
Dave - - - -