1964 ford f250
I just picked up a 351W (mild build) and a C6 transmission, both freshly rebuilt. Which headers have you used? I'm thinking about dumping the exhaust out the side right behind the cab (I have a flatbed). What's a ballpark price for the driveshaft I'm going to have to have made? I have the 3 on the tree shifter and I'm assuming that I'd have to sell my soul to the devil to keep the shift on the column so which floor shifter would you recommend? I've done lots of reading and searching but I find an actual conversation that turns into an argument is far more entertaining lmao. Im not planning on making a drag truck just want it to sound cool and ruin an occasional set of rear tires. I'm not going to do the cv front end swap, if I wanted something to ride like a car I would of bought a car. The fun starts next week.

 

You can buy universal steering columns that would allow you to keep the shifter there if you like. FWIW, I don't think people doing CV swaps want cars either (we are on a truck forum after all) they want modern suspension components and that option is cheaper/easier than most others. Not trying to tell you what to do or change your mind, just offering some perspective.

 

i'm puttin a triton V10 superchargere in my 66 F-100

 

You should be more concerned on how you plan to install this engine/trans combo in a '64, then what headers and driveshaft you will need.

You are opening a huge can of worms by installing a 351W/C6 into a 1964, as there are no factory parts that will work with this swap.

1961/64: The steering shaft goes directly into the steering gearbox.

To remove the column, the Pitman Arm is disconnected from the sector shaft, then the column and gearbox are removed as a one piece assembly.

1961/64's use an entirely different engine mounting system than 1965/79 F100/250 2WD; 1966/76 F100 4WD; 1967/79 F250 4WD; 1967/79 F350; 1975/79 F150 2WD/4WD

1961/64 have a L shaped bracket bolted to the front of the engine, with two center rubber insulators, one below the cross member, one above the cross member.

The bell housing has two ears, one rubber insulator per side below the cross member, one above the cross member below the ears.

A bolt passes thru the lower insulator, thru the cross member, thru the upper insulator, thru the ears. Then a nut/washer tightens 'em up.

The above 1965/79's: Have two front rubber insulators that bolt to the R/L sides of the engine block, then to engine supports bolted to the frame rails.

There is one rubber insulator at the rear, bolts to the trans, then to the rear engine support that some people call a cross member.

351W's were not available until 1981. If this was a 1965/79, you could use 302 parts, but you cannot use any of these parts on a 1961/64.

1965 F100/250 4WD, 1965/66 F350; 1966 F250 4WD use a similar engine mounting system as 1961/64's, but the parts are specific to 240/300 I-6 or 352.

 

For factory type.support and ease it's always best to go back original if your vehicle is complete....

With that said, this is what I think you should do for the 351/c 6"combo....

It's been nearly 30 years since I had a custom driveshaft made.....I would assume it will be less than 500 bucks now, back then it seems it was less than a 100 bucks. The problem will be finding the shop local. Lots of those places are no longer around....

Engine mounting......

You have options basically two types.
2 piece....a small mount bolts,or welds to each frame rail...

One piece or (3 piece Tube crossmember)
The tube crossmember to me seems more sold and easier to install and adjust ..both designs use the side pads on the block.....

Another type is the old Hurst style that mounts the engine from the front.....not recommended.....

Transmission.....
Use a 65 up bolt in transmission crossmember and mount or use a universal crossmember from the same supplier as your engine mount.
The old trans mount cross member may pose an issue for the c6. You may have to do some floor work....jack the front of the cab up for installation clearance....or install the transmission from underneath. I do know that old crossmember can be left in place for the C 4 install. A lot of folks remove it......

Shifter...
Use a Lokar floor shift. It even looks like the 250 floor shift. Or use an good auto floor shift of your choice.
Forget about rigging up th column.
1. Manual to auto conversions can work but it is a (Rig Job) that I consider unsafe.
2. The original column shift is likely worn and parts for these are orphans (61-64) even if in great shape it's stil a rig.
3. Factory auto columns for (61-64) are very very rare and the tube goes into the steering gear.....lot of work with very rare parts.....and it still may not work right.
So.....Use some type of floor shift.

Trans cooler
Use a after market cooler or a 65 up auto radiator should go in with little hassle.....

Exhaust....
If you notice these engines are mounted off center to the passenger side. When doing your crossmember or mount, keep this in mind. Make sure you have enough clearance between the steering gear and manifold/headers......for center dump headers remeber the engine mount!

 

It has been a crazy winter (I drive a plow truck) but I have the motor and trans in and I'm waiting on my driver side header and driveshaft to be made. After that I just have to install the floor shifter (went with the locar), wire it up and toss on the new air gap intake/holley 670 carb. I went with the universal motor mounts and had some fun with the transmission but after using the F word like a comma it went in. It should be on the road in a couple weeks.

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Hahaha I'll keep this piece of advice in mind when I get to my 61 swap.

 

For info purposes: PO routed the exhaust on my 65 between the cab and in front of the rear tire. I found the noise annoying, between road noise, vent window whistling, and exhaust I arrived at my destination with a headache. After a few years took the 65 to a muffler shop and have them route the exhaust behind the rear wheel; oh what a relief. The 65 also has the tire rack mounted under the bed and did not present a problem for the muffler shop. Anyhow, food for thought??

 

I plan on taking it out the back but I have a homemade wood flatbed right now but planning on getting a long bed soon and dont want to have to redo it.