So, had a few members with some good advice, and they know who they are, over on the Fordsix forum, and you can check out that thread here if you care to get up to speed on where I'm at so far.

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=...593368#p593368

Not getting much help with my latest problem though which is finding the CORRECT adapter, or a universal one that will actually WORK, to mount my Motorcraft 2150 (Yes, I know, same mounting pattern as the Autolite 2100 and Holley 2300) on a 4 barrel Offenhauser 6227C intake.

Few problems have been either the universal ones (Mr. Gasket, Specter, etc.) orient the carburetor incorrectly and cannot be turned 90° because the holes in the cheap adapter only line up with any of the holes in the intake in one orientation. So that style adapter is out.

It was suggested that the Moroso 64966 might work since it works for the Holley 2300, except that the power valve on the Holley is in a different location, so the relief on the adapter is in the wrong spot to be used with the Motorcraft 2150. I'm not sure if the adapter would work if I simply cut another relief in the adapter in the right spot for the power valve on this carburetor, but I'm kind of skeptical about assuming I can just cut another relief in the adapter to accomodate this and I don't need a 60 dollar learning experience.

So, anybody who can chime in with some experience using the 2150 on the Offy intake, what adapter will work with them or whether I'd just be better off getting a piece of aluminum stock and making my own, or simply eating the 25 bucks I paid for the carb and trying to source a 4 barrel (Against some pretty well respected recommendations saying the 2bbl is the better option), would be much appreciated.

If you don't know, that's perfectly acceptable, but if anybody does, I'd like to hear what you have to say. Thanks.

 

Let me get this straight, you want the installed carb orientation (front) pointing forward or turned ninety degrees (and which way)?

Won't a phenolic spacer (which you need anyways) raise the carb throttle plate enough to clear the power valve?

 

Throttle linkage needs to be located to the back, same as the one barrel linkage was. All of the four barrel setups I've seen are pretty much oriented this way too. I have seen a couple of setups using webers where the linkage is oriented towards the fender, but those were dual carb setups and obviously the linkages have to be arranged differently on those.

So, choke towards the front, throttle linkage towards the back.

The problem I ran into with the budget adapters was that none of the four mounting holes on the base of them would line up with any of the holes on the intake with the adapter turned to the correct orientation to where the throttle plate butterflies were aligned front to back of the engine compartment, which orients the throttle linkage to the back (Or to the front if the carb were turned 180°).

The mounting holes on the intake are not symmetrical so the adapter has to be designed to fit the hole pattern with the two barrel portion in the correct orientation, it can't just be turned 90° because then the base is no longer aligned.

Or, maybe I'm entirely wrong and nobody has been successful in orienting a two barrel on one of these things in similar fashion to what the factory YF is oriented, and that I need to rethink the whole thing to orienting the carb differently.

I'm also not too sure why I'd NEED a phenolic spacer. I know in some applications they're needed to eliminate heat soak, but I would think that if this setup, from what I'm reading all over the place, tends to ice up so that the water heat plate is needed beneath the carburetor due to not having the factory exhaust manifold attached to it anymore, that would be unnecessary unless as you say it was helpful in gaining clearance.

 

Your OFFY 6227C Single Plane 4V HOLLEY Pattern (5 1/8" x 5 5/8")-



The dual pattern carb flange allows the 4V to be mounted @ four positions, correct? Or am I mistaken (never wrong)?

 

That was always my thought, but I don't think that's the case. The distance between two of the outer, and inner, mounting holes in one direction is NOT the same as it's distance to it's opposing hole in the adjascent direction.

The 4v base gasket I have sitting here also does not line up in four positions, only two.

So it seems it can be mounted in two positions, 180° opposite, but not in all four positions. And that holds true for both the outer AND the inner set of mounting holes.

However, looking at this setup more closely I think I might be able to make it work with the carburetor 90° off from the orientation I had wanted to use, with the throttle linkage closest to the valve cover and the choke on the fender well side. Not really how I wanted to have it sit, but it seems like maybe the only way it can without making a custom adapter or finding one that's actually designed for this setup.

 

Cut and pasted from the fordsix.com forum:

The reason I think the carb should be oriented as in a V8 is for fuel control on acceleration and braking. With the throttle linkage as in a 1V fuel in the bowl is going to slosh to the side on accels and decels. I have done carb orientation both ways and believe me it is a pain to tune out this fuel slosh and resultant hesitations on accels. Trading a simpler throttle cable hookup for drive problems is not worth the bother. Look at the location of the fuel bowl on the 1V.

If you do decide to orient the throttle as on the 1V search for the Autolite nylon stuffer block that was used on some models to alleviate fuel slosh problems on cornering.

 

Yeah, I think this is settled. Most of the issues seem to have been from my own stupidity thinking I could mount the 2bbl in the same orientation as the 1bbl, and clearly that's not the case.

With the unit mounted as it would be on a V8, with the linkage towards the drivers side and the fuel inlet towards the front, I think all of the problems except the power valve clearance will be resolved, and that should be resolved by milling a small cutout in that side of the adapter. Thanks again to everyone, especially Frenchtown Flyer, for their assistance and patience.

 

Talk about someone that has common sense...

 

a phenolic spacer will work...or a machine shop could mill a pocket to fit the power valve housing to fit the motorcraft carb. its not a super critical dimension, so it shouldn't take them long at all.
those "super sucker" adapter/spacers are pretty cool, and really neat looking. pretty expensive though. not sure if the benefits would outweigh the cost being that most of the engines on here wont see above 4000-4500 rpm their entire lives.
I do have a similar design for a 2bbl. turned out pretty cool. haven't tried it yet...but I couldn't bring myself to pay that much for an adapter. plus the challenge was a cool learning experience.

 

Nice work TDA.

 

thanks FTF.


as far as which is the better option...the MC2150, or a four barrel all depends. what is the truck used for? how do you drive it? what are you willing to spend? etc.


plus...there is also the simplicity factor. not everyone wants to deal with tuning a 4 barrel carb, and the 2150 is about as simple as it gets.


I personally found the motorcraft 2 barrel to be a choke point for my truck and driving style. I have a lead foot, and I drive my truck like I stole it. also, the engine itself has been modded to better reap the benefits of more air/fuel.


for a stock engine, and just opening up the intake/exhaust, an MC2150 seems to be pretty well on point for your goal, IMHO. I've also been told that they're arguably a viable option for several performance applications.


Decent mileage can be had from either a 2 bbl or 4 bbl too.


Run what you have. I'd recommend sticking with the 2150 and either source a good spacer for clearance, have your adapter machined, or build your own. Tune it, and run it for a while. You'll be pleasantly surprised how quickly you can wind up a six once its all dialed in, with your 2 barrel.

 

Thanks, that's what I'm going to do and if I find I need more later I can always swap the carb out for something larger, but probably that's not going to be the case. Even with the Offy intake and EFI exhaust manifolds, the cam selection is supposed to be a decent step up from the stock profile, but not so much that it's going to be extremely greedy, so I think the 2150 should work fine and honestly the truck did ok as is when it had the 1bbl and was running well, so I think this combination should place me right where I want to be. Not a race truck, but not a lunky laggard either.