First of all, I hope that starting this thread isn't muddying up any others that already exist. Today I created my own custom harness and installed a set of factory OEM LED headlights in my 2017 F-250 which comes stock with halogens. I ran four wires straight from the BCM in the cab for the Left and Right DRL circuits and outtage. Everything seems to work absolutely perfect except for one thing. When the low beams are on, only the upper lights on lit as I believe they should. When the high beams are on, only the lowers are lit. I believe that a stock truck with LED housings has all four lit when the high beams are on. Has anyone encountered this issue before or have any ideas on what changes to make in Forscan to make both high and low beam circuits turn on when the selector is on high?

By the way, I'd be more than happy to post pictures of the harness I made and provide info on how to connect to the BCM pins. Also, FDNY136 was extremely helpful in getting me this far! If this all works out, the custom harness cost me about $75 to make and has no resistors or black boxes instead of spending $350+.

 

I tried this exact idea but had the same problem as you plus I had no front parking lamps with the engine running and an intermittent right front turn signal. I also had flickering in the headlights (it was not terrible but you could definelty see it especially if you shined the lights on a wall. I tried many Forscan options but wound up going with the Retro Customz harness in the end which eliminated my problems along with the correct for scan settings. I did quite a bit of research on this and my running theory on this is it depends on which BCM your truck has as there is I believe 5 different part numbers. I am inclined to think that higher up trucks that this could have been a factory option will have better results then lower end trucks like my XLT. The other thing I noticed after installing the aftermarket harness is that the brightness of the headlamps seems to increase quite a bit.

 

Just curious, did you make the changes to the frequency settings in Forscan? I noticed the flickering with the LED bulbs that I used to have in my halogen housings. After making the frequency change the flickering and intermittent issues I had went away. The parking lamps seem to work fine so far too. My truck is a Lariat Ultimate so it is really only 1 option away form having the factory LEDs.

 

great to here , I am at almost the same point. I eliminated all plug n play connectors and all I kept is the motobox for the reason your describing. Did you buy any pigtails to tie in bcm connections?

 

I bought the pins for the BCM connector from Mouser for $.10 a piece. The part number is 571-1924955-3 for 20-22awg wire. I've initiated dialogue with Forscan to see if they have any ideas on programming to get both to work. If not I'll probably add a weatherproof relay to both sides to make the lights work properly and call it good.

If anyone knows of some forscan changes that might work please let me know.

 

You are correct all four should be on .When I get a chance im going to look deeper into it. Post some pics etc . Every little bit helps the next guy

 

Sadly this was a while back and while I did try lots of software changes I don't remember that exact ones. If memory serves me I did try an entire file of as built data from an led equipped truck and that's when I threw in the towel and ordered that aftermarket harness.

I will follow your progress as who knows what the life of these harness's are so for the future I will have other options available. For some reason my truck seems to be ultra picky about the front lights. Before I decided to go with the factory led retrofit I tried several brands of led bulbs and even tried using the anti flicker adaptors and could not even get this setup to work properly but then I read on here that lots of folks have this setup working fine so who knows...

 

I'll try and get some pictures on here soon. After another day of running the new lights and wiring them per the Ford schematic FNDY136 sent, they are still working well with no flickering.

One question I have is for a truck that came from the factory with LED headlights, does the DRL on the left side go out when the left blinker is turned on? I know other vehicles do this but wasn't sure on these trucks.

 

There is a setting in forscan for switchbacks which sounds like what you have going on. Check the spreadsheet maybe you have it enabled?

 

They do not go out on our vehicle as set from the factory.

 

Good info. Thanks!

Also, I did check for a switchback setting and I'm not seeing one. I'll keep you guys updated if I hear something back from Forscan on this.

 

[QUOTE=jnye6625;17377068]Good info. Thanks!

Im thinking the motocontrol is only relays n diodes. What about using a diode on the high side trigger wired into low beam this way when highbeams are on the current flows to the lowbeam light but when low beams are on the diode prevents power flowing back to high beam circuit

 

[quote=fdny136;17378819]That's not a bad idea. Do they have diodes that can handle the current? I was thinking about getting one of these for each light:


I wish I knew how to map circuits and settings to the addresses in Forscan.

 

[QUOTE=jnye6625;17379131]thats an option also

 

Well the OEM LED headlights are working per factory design now with a home built harness. These things are night and day better (no pun intended) than the halogen lights even with the LED bulb swap.
Plus they look way better. The only thing that's not so much factory about the setup is that I had to run a relay to power the low beams when the high beams are on. Maybe someday the Forscan settings will pop up to trigger both circuits and allow me to remove the relay. If anyone has any questions about how I did it or what parts please feel free to ask! It'll save around $250 not having to buy the expensive aftermarket hardness and eliminates the use of any "black boxes" or resistors. By the way, the resistors get extremely hot. Everyone pretty much knows this but they actually get so hot that they melted some wire loom that was near and/or touching them. Luckily there was no damage to any actual wires. Just another reason to not go with the aftermarket harness with resistors.