Dash lights inoperative - 76 F250
#1
Dash lights inoperative - 76 F250
So, driving home 30 miles in the dark with no lights on the dash was, shall we say, interesting...
No lights in the cluster of gauges, gear indicator, wiper/lights legend, heater controls.
Do all of these come off the main light switch and then spread out to the various points, so one wire to the gear indicator, one(?) to the heater controls, one(?) to the lights/wiper legend, and one(?) to control the two bulbs in the dash gauge cluster?
I assume that I will have to check:
a) fuse (3A in the fuse block to left of steering column)
b) bulbs (no reason why they can't all be blown, I suppose..)
c) contacts on light switch
d) wires connected
e) condition of Mylar box and PCB (speedometer, fuel gauge, water temp work, oil pressure does not, not sure on ammeter which might imply that the PCB itself is, in general, OK)
e) condition of bulb to holder contacts
If new fuse added and blows immediately, check for ground issues
No lights in the cluster of gauges, gear indicator, wiper/lights legend, heater controls.
Do all of these come off the main light switch and then spread out to the various points, so one wire to the gear indicator, one(?) to the heater controls, one(?) to the lights/wiper legend, and one(?) to control the two bulbs in the dash gauge cluster?
I assume that I will have to check:
a) fuse (3A in the fuse block to left of steering column)
b) bulbs (no reason why they can't all be blown, I suppose..)
c) contacts on light switch
d) wires connected
e) condition of Mylar box and PCB (speedometer, fuel gauge, water temp work, oil pressure does not, not sure on ammeter which might imply that the PCB itself is, in general, OK)
e) condition of bulb to holder contacts
If new fuse added and blows immediately, check for ground issues
#2
Check to make sure your interior lights dimmer switch (turning light switch ****) has not be turned to low. This is an often overlooked simple issue. Could also be a bad switch as well.
Else wise, here's a link to some helpful diagrams. 1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net
Else wise, here's a link to some helpful diagrams. 1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net
#3
#4
I believe the dimming control of all dash lights is controlled thru the headlight switch. Tuning it counter clockwise and right before you turn on your dome light (with the doors closed) should make the dash lights be on full bright.
X2 on ck fuse, if not might be a bad bulb on the back side of the cluster. But with them all out sounds like a fuse or a bad headlight switch.
X2 on ck fuse, if not might be a bad bulb on the back side of the cluster. But with them all out sounds like a fuse or a bad headlight switch.
#5
I'm guessing that, where available, Motorcraft are the best option for parts like switches?
When RockAuto shows before serial number C 25,000, and the truck is A 31399, that would be the correct light switch (MOTORCRAFT SW1245 {#D3ZB11A685AA, D3ZZ11654A})?
Click link
And then this for the fuse?
Click link
When RockAuto shows before serial number C 25,000, and the truck is A 31399, that would be the correct light switch (MOTORCRAFT SW1245 {#D3ZB11A685AA, D3ZZ11654A})?
Click link
And then this for the fuse?
Click link
#6
I do not think you need the one with a spacer. Yes glass fuses.
You do know that you will need to remove the instrument cluster outer bezel trim (just a few screws) to get to the lock nut that holds the headlight switch in place.
Also you do know that there is a button to push on the switch body to get the headlight shaft and **** to come out.
And you need to disconnect the battery before you do this other wise headlights will be on the whole time.
Walk thru of it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14880899
You do know that you will need to remove the instrument cluster outer bezel trim (just a few screws) to get to the lock nut that holds the headlight switch in place.
Also you do know that there is a button to push on the switch body to get the headlight shaft and **** to come out.
And you need to disconnect the battery before you do this other wise headlights will be on the whole time.
Walk thru of it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14880899
#7
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This switch is a KIT, comes with the spacer, but if not required, throw the spacer away.
D3ZZ-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch KIT (Motorcraft SW-1245).
This KIT replaced a gazillion different 1965/72 Ford/Merc Passenger Car; Truck & Econoline switches, so some will require the spacer, some will not.
And, even though the prefix (D3ZZ) reflects 1973 Mustang, the switch was not used on a 1973 Mustang!
1965/75 F100/350; 1976 F100/350 before serial number C25,001 // 1965 Falcon/Comet; 1965/66 Mustang & 1971/72 Mustang/Cougar; 1969/74 Econoline and etc etc etc.
D3ZZ-11654-A .. Headlamp Switch KIT (Motorcraft SW-1245).
This KIT replaced a gazillion different 1965/72 Ford/Merc Passenger Car; Truck & Econoline switches, so some will require the spacer, some will not.
And, even though the prefix (D3ZZ) reflects 1973 Mustang, the switch was not used on a 1973 Mustang!
1965/75 F100/350; 1976 F100/350 before serial number C25,001 // 1965 Falcon/Comet; 1965/66 Mustang & 1971/72 Mustang/Cougar; 1969/74 Econoline and etc etc etc.
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