Help Me With My Trouble Shooting Checklist
#1
#2
#3
It's a 2000 7.3 diesel Lariat. The owner said it wasn't turning over or running before he parked it. I'm charging the battery. He thinks maybe the starter. Those are things I can check. Not sure what a scanner is. Someone mentioned glow plugs a possibility.
#4
Check fluids first just to avoid other damage in case it does start.
Assuming I put the key in and try to start, and nothing happens.
Not surprising if it has been sitting for a year...
Charge the battery.
Try again.
Nothing? Test battery with load tester. Then look at wiring, solenoid, or starter.
Click? Starter or starter circuit, or frozen engine (try turning engine with a socket on the crank)
Cranks? Progress.
Assuming I put the key in and try to start, and nothing happens.
Not surprising if it has been sitting for a year...
Charge the battery.
Try again.
Nothing? Test battery with load tester. Then look at wiring, solenoid, or starter.
Click? Starter or starter circuit, or frozen engine (try turning engine with a socket on the crank)
Cranks? Progress.
#5
Check fluids first just to avoid other damage in case it does start.
Assuming I put the key in and try to start, and nothing happens.
Not surprising if it has been sitting for a year...
Charge the battery.
Try again.
Nothing? Test battery with load tester. Then look at wiring, solenoid, or starter.
Click? Starter or starter circuit, or frozen engine (try turning engine with a socket on the crank)
Cranks? Progress.
Assuming I put the key in and try to start, and nothing happens.
Not surprising if it has been sitting for a year...
Charge the battery.
Try again.
Nothing? Test battery with load tester. Then look at wiring, solenoid, or starter.
Click? Starter or starter circuit, or frozen engine (try turning engine with a socket on the crank)
Cranks? Progress.
#6
Should have added with "Click?" that the battery should still be load tested in that case.
Also, seeing it is a diesel... Do not use ether starter spray to try to get it to fire up. That is for gasoline engines.
You asked about a scanner. They come in various degrees of capability, the most basic (like I have) is an OBD-2 (On Board Diagnostice version 2) code reader. This is the gizmo to plug into the connector under the dashboard to read the codes which turn on the SES (Service Engine Soon) light on the dashboard.
A little more info... If the SES light is on, there is at least one hard code and the reader will tell you what it/they is/are. Also, if the SES light is not on, there may still be a pending code. A condition needs to occur a set number of times in a fixed period of time to trigger the SES light (make it a hard code). Even the cheap scanners (code readers) will read pending (soft) codes, read the manual for the scanner/readeer to see if you need to press a button to access those.
You can get an OBD-2 code reader at any auto parts emporium or Amazon. I think I paid about $30 for more, maybe less.
Also, seeing it is a diesel... Do not use ether starter spray to try to get it to fire up. That is for gasoline engines.
You asked about a scanner. They come in various degrees of capability, the most basic (like I have) is an OBD-2 (On Board Diagnostice version 2) code reader. This is the gizmo to plug into the connector under the dashboard to read the codes which turn on the SES (Service Engine Soon) light on the dashboard.
A little more info... If the SES light is on, there is at least one hard code and the reader will tell you what it/they is/are. Also, if the SES light is not on, there may still be a pending code. A condition needs to occur a set number of times in a fixed period of time to trigger the SES light (make it a hard code). Even the cheap scanners (code readers) will read pending (soft) codes, read the manual for the scanner/readeer to see if you need to press a button to access those.
You can get an OBD-2 code reader at any auto parts emporium or Amazon. I think I paid about $30 for more, maybe less.
#7
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#8
Sorry, just had to post that. Your's might be a better truck than the one I'm trying to pick up later this month.
#9
Just an FYI. The injector driver module needs at least 11 volts while cranking for the injectors to fire. I have brought a few abandoned 7.3's back to life, but without strong batteries and a good starter it can be difficult. Check all of the fluids as mentioned before. Check for water in the fuel filter housing. Check for burnt pins on the valve cover gaskets. A bad glow plug can short out the wiring in the valve cover gaskets leading to injector problems. There used to be a 7.3 no fire checklist that was floating the FTE site a few years ago. That has helped me a bunch of times, if you can find it. Good luck on the new project
#10
Just an FYI. The injector driver module needs at least 11 volts while cranking for the injectors to fire. I have brought a few abandoned 7.3's back to life, but without strong batteries and a good starter it can be difficult. Check all of the fluids as mentioned before. Check for water in the fuel filter housing. Check for burnt pins on the valve cover gaskets. A bad glow plug can short out the wiring in the valve cover gaskets leading to injector problems. There used to be a 7.3 no fire checklist that was floating the FTE site a few years ago. That has helped me a bunch of times, if you can find it. Good luck on the new project
#11
You also need to get to at least 500psi in the high pressure oil system for an injector to fire.
IMO I would get rid of whatever fuel is in the tank and put some fresh stuff in there. Depending on what symptoms you have there could be some sediment/debris blocking the pickup foot for the fuel line inside the tank.
There's so many possibilities of what may be the issues(s) so here are a couple of places to start.
Some good stuff in the 7.3L forum tech folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ech-links.html
Also some more good stuff for no start courtesy of Tugly (scroll down to the 7.3L section):
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...l-diagnostics/
Lastly, I recommend posting in the 1999-2003 7.3L forum for this issue. Lots of people over there that really know the engine and are more than willing to help out.
IMO I would get rid of whatever fuel is in the tank and put some fresh stuff in there. Depending on what symptoms you have there could be some sediment/debris blocking the pickup foot for the fuel line inside the tank.
There's so many possibilities of what may be the issues(s) so here are a couple of places to start.
Some good stuff in the 7.3L forum tech folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ech-links.html
Also some more good stuff for no start courtesy of Tugly (scroll down to the 7.3L section):
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...l-diagnostics/
Lastly, I recommend posting in the 1999-2003 7.3L forum for this issue. Lots of people over there that really know the engine and are more than willing to help out.
#12
You also need to get to at least 500psi in the high pressure oil system for an injector to fire.
IMO I would get rid of whatever fuel is in the tank and put some fresh stuff in there. Depending on what symptoms you have there could be some sediment/debris blocking the pickup foot for the fuel line inside the tank.
There's so many possibilities of what may be the issues(s) so here are a couple of places to start.
Some good stuff in the 7.3L forum tech folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ech-links.html
Also some more good stuff for no start courtesy of Tugly (scroll down to the 7.3L section):
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...l-diagnostics/
Lastly, I recommend posting in the 1999-2003 7.3L forum for this issue. Lots of people over there that really know the engine and are more than willing to help out.
IMO I would get rid of whatever fuel is in the tank and put some fresh stuff in there. Depending on what symptoms you have there could be some sediment/debris blocking the pickup foot for the fuel line inside the tank.
There's so many possibilities of what may be the issues(s) so here are a couple of places to start.
Some good stuff in the 7.3L forum tech folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ech-links.html
Also some more good stuff for no start courtesy of Tugly (scroll down to the 7.3L section):
https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...l-diagnostics/
Lastly, I recommend posting in the 1999-2003 7.3L forum for this issue. Lots of people over there that really know the engine and are more than willing to help out.
#13
A little late to the party:
Does it crank? If not
*) Battery
*) Starter
*) Measure the voltage to the starter
If so let the party begin - start with the basics - you need Fuel, Air and Spark / Electricity for an engine to start
*) Someone mentioned changing the fuel - that may not be a bad idea but unless it's really really bad it shouldn't make it so the engine won't start - it may run like you wished it didn't start but it should start - or at least give you a few seconds of "running"
*) The easiest thing to check is probably fuel - pop the fuel line off and make sure you're getting fuel.
*) I'm not sure how much "stuff" is on top of a 7.3 and if you can get to the wires connected to the glow plug - if it's not too difficult - check and make sure you're getting electricity to the glow plugs
*) Go through your air intake system - make sure no critters made a home in your air intake system. Also make sure the throttle body butterfly is opening and closing
Does it crank? If not
*) Battery
*) Starter
*) Measure the voltage to the starter
If so let the party begin - start with the basics - you need Fuel, Air and Spark / Electricity for an engine to start
*) Someone mentioned changing the fuel - that may not be a bad idea but unless it's really really bad it shouldn't make it so the engine won't start - it may run like you wished it didn't start but it should start - or at least give you a few seconds of "running"
*) The easiest thing to check is probably fuel - pop the fuel line off and make sure you're getting fuel.
*) I'm not sure how much "stuff" is on top of a 7.3 and if you can get to the wires connected to the glow plug - if it's not too difficult - check and make sure you're getting electricity to the glow plugs
*) Go through your air intake system - make sure no critters made a home in your air intake system. Also make sure the throttle body butterfly is opening and closing
#14
Good point about the critters. There are plenty of places for them to nest including the valley on top of the engine (had this happen a few times over the years) and inside the pipes (intake/intercooler) if they are open. The diameter is plenty large for rodents and other small animals to find a home in there.
If it turns but doesn't start you also need the following for the injectors to actually fire (from Powerstroke):
Requirements to Start (7.3L)
Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : 1 to 6 milliseconds
Note: the above starting requirements assumethe following:
Sufficient Base Engine Oil Level and Pressure
Acceptable Quality Fuel
Sufficient Fuel Pressure
Sufficient Air Supply
Proper Glow Plug Operation
Proper Injection Timing (PCM Controlled)
You will probably have to cycle the key several times (and wait for the WTS light to go out) to build sufficient fuel pressure.
To get to the glow plugs you will need to remove the intake tube, both intercooler pipes, and the valve covers.
Also, there is no throttle body or spark. Air goes from the intercooler and is directly piped to the intake plenum. Compression takes care if igniting the mix inside the cylinder.
If it turns but doesn't start you also need the following for the injectors to actually fire (from Powerstroke):
Requirements to Start (7.3L)
Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : 1 to 6 milliseconds
Note: the above starting requirements assumethe following:
Sufficient Base Engine Oil Level and Pressure
Acceptable Quality Fuel
Sufficient Fuel Pressure
Sufficient Air Supply
Proper Glow Plug Operation
Proper Injection Timing (PCM Controlled)
You will probably have to cycle the key several times (and wait for the WTS light to go out) to build sufficient fuel pressure.
To get to the glow plugs you will need to remove the intake tube, both intercooler pipes, and the valve covers.
Also, there is no throttle body or spark. Air goes from the intercooler and is directly piped to the intake plenum. Compression takes care if igniting the mix inside the cylinder.
#15
Good point about the critters. There are plenty of places for them to nest including the valley on top of the engine (had this happen a few times over the years) and inside the pipes (intake/intercooler) if they are open. The diameter is plenty large for rodents and other small animals to find a home in there.
If it turns but doesn't start you also need the following for the injectors to actually fire (from Powerstroke):
Requirements to Start (7.3L)
Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : 1 to 6 milliseconds
Note: the above starting requirements assumethe following:
Sufficient Base Engine Oil Level and Pressure
Acceptable Quality Fuel
Sufficient Fuel Pressure
Sufficient Air Supply
Proper Glow Plug Operation
Proper Injection Timing (PCM Controlled)
You will probably have to cycle the key several times (and wait for the WTS light to go out) to build sufficient fuel pressure.
To get to the glow plugs you will need to remove the intake tube, both intercooler pipes, and the valve covers.
Also, there is no throttle body or spark. Air goes from the intercooler and is directly piped to the intake plenum. Compression takes care if igniting the mix inside the cylinder.
If it turns but doesn't start you also need the following for the injectors to actually fire (from Powerstroke):
Requirements to Start (7.3L)
Vehicle Power : 10.5v
RPM Signal : 100rpm
Inj. Cntrl Press. (ICP) : 0.85v (about 500psi)
Fuel Pulse Width : 1 to 6 milliseconds
Note: the above starting requirements assumethe following:
Sufficient Base Engine Oil Level and Pressure
Acceptable Quality Fuel
Sufficient Fuel Pressure
Sufficient Air Supply
Proper Glow Plug Operation
Proper Injection Timing (PCM Controlled)
You will probably have to cycle the key several times (and wait for the WTS light to go out) to build sufficient fuel pressure.
To get to the glow plugs you will need to remove the intake tube, both intercooler pipes, and the valve covers.
Also, there is no throttle body or spark. Air goes from the intercooler and is directly piped to the intake plenum. Compression takes care if igniting the mix inside the cylinder.