Ok if you don't know I've been chasing a 60plus mph shimmy for eight years now maybe nine. So I decided after new tires, shocks, rotors, brake lines, both driveshaft rebuilt be a authorized Spicer shop, countless hours checked front end parts, etc etc etc etc I broke down and bought new timken unit bearings. SO after installing them and new oil seals I hit the highway and the SHAKE IS STILL HERE!!!! So I spent nearly 400 dollars for NOTHING again like usual and the truck still shakes on the highway.

NOW what's next?

-do I replace the rear wheel bearings just because?
-even though the tire shop said they are fine could the OEM aluminum wheels be out of round?
-im lost at what to even try next....

 

I hate to say but if you've been actively chasing this thing for almost a decade it's probably time to give up and accept it or buy a new truck. At this point, if it were me, I'd be of the if you can't beat em then join em mindset.

 

I've had this truck since brand new and it never did this EVER. THEN one day it started and I was like that's odd, and it never went away. SOMETHING has to be causing it???

 

Yes. It does happen.

 

Have you replaced the steering stabilizer?

 

find a front end Truck shop.. and the type of tire balancing machine that the wheel remains on the truck....

YES a machine that spins wheel/tire on truck to 50 plus miles per hour...

One good chuck hole can force a wheel out of round.... an not blow a tire.
reason I do not own aluminum wheels.. steel has spring to them and can return to shape.. aluminum will never return.

I AM NOT SAYING ITS A WHEEL PROBLEM... but you are going about salving this problem Wrong.
could be an OFF-Center U-joint yolk ..

never replace parts till proven "That" is the problem.

 

jack it up off the ground and check your

drag bar end play horizontal and vertical. mine had 1/8 of an inch play but I had to pull it down about 3/8th of an inch. in the normal position...no play. the rod end was able to move up and down while still being fully tightend down.

check the torque on the axle/shackle u clamps

 

I would think that if you had the wheels balanced by one of those spin balancing deals the dudes that did that would see the wheel wobbling if it were out of round?

 

One big thing - I used to go to a shop that would balance my tires, but because they were chrome on the outside (standard steel SD wheels with that chrome "cover" on them), they wouldn't put the weights on the outside, only the inside.

I was in there one day watching them, after TELLING them to just put the weights wherever the machine tells them to. The shop manager told one of the guys (in Spanish) what to do and I heard him tell him the right thing. The guy STILL does it the wrong way, putting the weights on the inside edge.

I walked out of the shop, went into the owner's office, and told him what was going on. He walked out, told the manager to do it the right way, and it got done right.

This was to fix a vibration I had around 60-70MPH. Sound familiar?

If you have alloy wheels, make sure they do it the RIGHT way. If that means weights on the outside edge where you'll see 'em, so be it. If the alloy wheels have the correct type of edge where the weights go, they are meant to have weights put on them on the outside edge.

(side note: My '96 t-bird and '97 Cougar both have one stud with a yellow dot on the end. If you put the wheel on with the tire valve nearest that yellow dot - no shimmy. Anywhere else? Shimmy at 60-70MPH)

 

stock than a Monroe replacement and then I installed a dual kit from skyjacker

no shops in my area balance with tires on trucks, I honestly can say I'm one of them drunk drivers lol I weave all over the road avoiding stuff and no one but one ford mechanic has ever driven my truck. My truck is a ectopic cab short bed so one piece shaft with double carbon at tcase, that and front shaft were rebuilt not two years ago and balanced and checked for trueness. And yes I'm sick of not finding the problem and just replacing parts

I had stock front springs and tract bar with this issue then I added pro comp 22210 front springs and zone adjustable tract bar and problem is Still here. Also changed rear u bolts just because and triple checked torque ON EVERYTHING

Two sets of tires balanced by three different shops and recently I removed weights and did dynabeads and problem is still here. I also watched ever shop mount tires and balance so I would have seen a out of round wheel or tire for that matter....unless it's bent just enough that you can't really see it but at 60 plus MPH its put enough it shakes the truck?

 

I'm not saying your wrong because I was told this before but when I bought the truck brand new the following morning I had the lead bang on weights removed and sticky weights added to the INSIDE only. Then the same with the four sets of tires after that....I don't remember the exact year when it happened but it's been about eight or nine like I said and it happened right after I had BFG all terrains and load range e installed from my local Kmart that was just bought by Sears. About a week later when I finally went on the highway is when I noticed it and it's been here ever since so maybe one of them new kids bent the wheel with the tire machine while trying to pop the bead I have no idea. as much as I don't want to I was going to stop at a shop today and see what they would charge to Shop-Vac the dynabeads out of my tires remount them and add them ugly weights to the outside of the wheel lips that ruin the clear coat finish

 

When (if) you get them balanced, watch the machine and see where it tells them to put the weights.

Also, ever get the alignment checked? And I mean an entire four-wheel alignment, not just the front. I know they can't adjust the back, but it needs to be checked against the front (thrust-line?) if it hasn't.

 

This sounds like the same thing my uncle went through with his f150. He bought it new and it did the same thing you said yours does. He had it in the dealer every month or so with them replacing every part they could think of and nothing helped it. Tires, rear end, shocks,u joints, drive shafts, etc. Nothing changed it a bit. He ended up agreeing to have the warranty extended by about 50k miles and just doesnt drive it in the speed range where it vibrates.

 

I'm just throwing out all the things that come to mind ..
On some Ford Trucks .. Ford installs a Heavy Weight on the Frame. It is usually installed near the rear of the Truck. This Weight is proven to Eliminate Harmonics/Vibrations. If its no longer there these Symptoms can Appear.
Other thoughts, not in order ..
Does it come and go with Speed ?
Does it take over and become Dangerous ?
Is there a Shake in your Seat, Steering or Feet ?
Do you have a Harmonic or Rotational Sound or Feeling ?

This is a stretch .. I read you had the Drive Shaft Re-Balanced. I assume they replaced
the U Joints. Is it possible when the Drive Shaft was Re-Installed, it was installed
(out of phase)

How about Squeaks or Rattle Sounds ?

Have you checked your Body Mounts ?
Did this problem happen after the Truck was Serviced ?
Have you had the Tires Balanced while on the Truck ?
Check your Wheels for the Lug Nut Holes being out of round.
Check for the Wheel Studs and Thread for being Stretched. This can happen if they've Over Tightened.

 

Before doing that, as much money as you have already spent, why not buy a set of newer factory takeoffs with smaller tires. You can use them just as a diagnostic tool. Then when your finished, you can resell them and recoup your money. Beats throwing money at your current wheels and tires, and your taking them out of the equation. Maybe someone on here that lives close would let you borrow or "rent" a set.