Hello
I need to replace my stock Garrett turbo due to some end shaft play. I also saw a scratch from a fin contacting the housing. The Truck seems low on power. It does use a little oil which i assume is normal for these engines, but no smoke in the exhaust. The 7.3 is bone stock with a R4100 heavy duty transmission (ford) I replace the old R4100 with a Ford R4100HD for the stronger parts. Little did i know the gear ratios are different. It is gear lower than the R4100. The HD killed my highway speeds. To do 70 i'm at 2200 rpm (no trailer).

On a budget:
1.What Turbo would you all recommend for a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 crew cab dually R4100HD with 275,000 that hauls 20k every other week?

2. Is it worth putting the TS performance chip in it with the new turbo and the R100HD auto trans?

3. With the trailer hooked up and loaded full throttle, I'm pushing 60 mph, 15 lbs of boost and 2600 rpm, and hear a rhythmic whirling / surging sound. I come off the throttle and cruz the engine kicks down to 60 mph, 2000 rpm and 5psi boost, and rhythmic whirling / surging sound goes away.



Thank you
79Bronc

 

If you are looking to spend a lot of money get a T4 setup.

If you are looking for a drop in replacement I would go with one of these, and not in this order...

Garrett 38R
KC Turbos KC38r
KC Turbos 63mm or 66mm (not released yet but available as a tester basis with a bit of a discount)
Garrett 38 OEM turbo

If you have not already, install some bellowed up-pipes, check the boots and plenums too.

Before getting a chip, look at the Hydra with GearHead or PHP tuning. Also, make sure the truck is 100% (sensors, leaks, etc) before upgrading or changing anything. If you decide to get a tuner of some sort you should have an EGT gauge at a minimum.

We are good at spending your money, so keep the questions coming.

 

Rebuild the original turbo with the 360* kit from riffraff and install his ww2 wheel.

 

Thanks Sous,
I saw some of your other threads, and they were very good. I will replace the boots aswell. How much effect does the r4100HD effect the turbo. I read there is a difference between a manual trans and the auto, but with the different ratios in the HD i wasnt sure i could / should still use the Garrett 38R KC Turbos KC38r.
Who makes the KC's?

 

The wife has a 38R, HD 4R100, and tuning from Tony Wildman. Been that way for a few years now. Make sure you don't mind the sound of a jet engine before you invest in the 38R. They tend to whistle quite a bit, and noticeably. But they are a nice upgrade.

The only issue she's had is a small drip from the pedestal o-ring that I haven't got around to changing yet.

 

Thanks Timmboy,
I have considered that. I am gun-shy to do the rebuild because i dont know exactly how much wear there is in the housing, and if the rebuild kit can get me back to OEM specs. Lasty can afford a mistake which would cripple me on the side of the highway, from my handywork. I'll pay alittle more for the peace of mind that the manufacture knows more than i do putting these together.

 

A gentlemen named Charlie makes the KC turbos and can be found at the link below.

https://kcturbos.net/

I plan to get a KC38R unless the new 66mm turbo he is developing turns out to be a home run.

 

What is this new 66mm turbo? The KC38R is a 66mm. Other than that, I only know of 63 and 69mm betas.

79bronc, rebuilding the stock turbo is pretty straight forward. If you can R&R a turbo, you can rebuild it. If you're concerned about the housing, you can buy a ported housing and kill 2 birds with 1 wad of cash (surging and scoring).

 

Seeing as nobody addressed your transmission comment. I will. To my knowledge there is no difference in gearing between any version of the 4R100 transmission.

 

Thanks for that, I was just about to request verification of the claim.

 

All the same and ALL totally useless in a transmission used in a vehicle that is supposed to be able to tow.

 

"All the same and ALL totally useless in a transmission used in a vehicle that is supposed to be able to tow"

Why so? Gear ratios too far apart? Mine does want to hunt if I leave O.D. on. ( Towing ~12K )

 

First and second gears are far too high. Reverse is even more so. When it's a necessity to put the transfer case in low range to back a trailer up more of an incline than level ground for a distance over 15 feet or else be at risk of losing fluid out of the pump seal, the ratio is too high. I can't imagine how 2wd owners work around that.

On the other hand, the GM 4L60 (700R4) has a worse problem although with a gas engine it's not a big deal. First gear is something around 3.71:1 and then second is in the 1.5:1 range.


Realistically, more gears would solve the problem; first and second lower, third about where first is now, fourth where second is, and fifth and sixth where third and fourth are would be about perfect. Oh, and a reverse gear that is incapable of going more than 15 MPH....unlike the E4OD/4R100 that will do about 40 MPH. That transmission exists....it's the Allison in the GM pickups.

 

This is 100% right. This is one of the main reasons why I searched for the ZF6 truck instead of an auto, so I could have the granny gear. Also, now that I will be documenting the 2 Low in reverse mod, I will be set.

 

Granny gear in a ZF-6 doesn't get you much more than moving forward, but at least reverse is geared where you don't face the danger of a ticket in a school zone if you're not riding the brake pedal.

I never understood why Ford autos always had to move so fast backing up.