Wanted to check fluid level in the rear axle. Grabbed a brush and 3/8" breaker bar cleaned the dirt off and inserted the breaker bar. Hum, not very deep and pretty tight. Grabbed the shorter 1/2" and an adapter. Still too tight. Grabbed the long 1/2" breaker bar and pulled until I thought I might round off the hole if I pulled harder.

Any ideas on how to get this out with out messing up the plug?

While we are in the area, what oil does it use? If the manuals say I can't find it.

Thanks

 

I just use a 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter and mine always came loose with a 1/2" breaker bar.
A 1993 should take, LUBRICANT, HYPOID GEAR - MULTI-PURPOSE - SAE 90.

(a) - All conventional and Traction-Lok Axles use Rear Axle Lubricant, XY-90-QL or -KL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent plus 4 ounces of friction modifier C8AZ-19B546-A (EST-M2C118-A) or equivalent for complete refill of Traction-Lok Rear Axles.
(b) - Lubricant levels are determined by filling the axle 1/4 to 9/16 inch below the bottom of the filler hole with vehicle in a level position.
Note: Rear axle lube quantities must be replaced every 160,000 km (100,000 miles) or if the axle has been submerged in water. Otherwise, the lube should not be checked or changed unless a leak is suspected or repair required.

 

Good info. Im getting close to 100K in my 95.

 

Just straight 90? No high tech 85w-140? 75W-90? Wouldn't hurt anything would it?

Hopefully the dealer will have good prices on these lubricants like they did on the Mercon V.



There is no drain plug, right? What is the best cover sealant to use? Any tricks to getting the new oil in?

I pulled as hard as I dared. It distorted the corners of the square drive some. Propane torch anyone?

My 1984 Mercedes 300TD has a hex drive with good depth. I had to lift with a bottle jack on the Allen wrench to get enough force to break it loose. A work friend had the same problem with his BMW. Why they think using a Dry Seal thread is a good idea is beyond me. A little sealant paste and it seals with 1/4 the torque.

 

I think they would work OK. Just giving the Ford Specs for a 1993 8.8 from the shop manual.
Just use 4 ounces of friction modifier if it is a Traction-Lok Axle.
No Drain plug other than taking the cover off.
I use RTV Blue.
You can use a hand pump that you can get at an auto part store.
As I said above. I clean out the hole, drive my 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter in with a hammer, use about a 6" 1/2" extension to get square on to it then use my 1/2" breaker bar to break it loose.
I have never used a torch on it.

 

I got it out after much fussing around. The ball pushed the adapter out so there was less contact area. The photo showed what I had to do. I was pulling on it with all my weight from butt up and had to bounce to get it to move. I was actually quite lucky. If the flats on the plug were in another position I wouldn't have been able to swing the breaker bar without jacking the truck higher than it already was.

It turns out that it was not dry seal threads. It had that hard pre-applied sealant that I hate because it takes a lot of torque to make it seal. If I ever get parts with it at work, I'll wire brush it off and use a white Permatex sealant. It seals better with much less torque.