Since its been so hot I've decided to restore the dead air conditioning system. This system hasn't worked since I bought it but it is complete.

It appears the P.O. attempted to charge it with R134 without changing anything of the old R12 seals . It didn't work.

I removed the orfice tube and it is clogged up with this mystery gunk. Does anyone know what this is? Compressor shavings? The oil is clear.

The clutch works (when 12v applied directly) and when I spin the pulley, a little pressure is felt on my finger plugging the manifold hole.

Is my compressor toast?

Thanks in advance.


There was alot more crud on here until I dropped it (whoops!)

 

Is the gunk metallic? Hard to tell from the pics. I think it's just coagulated oil from the R12 days. Your system may well live with a good flush and a new receiver/dryer. There was a recent thread that got to talking about flushes. I can find it if you didn't see it. Is it Countrybumpkin who has all the AC experience? Hopefully he will chime in soon.

There should be a debris screen at the condenser discharge. Crack open the fitting between the battery and radiator. Tucked inside the condenser tube you should find a cone-shaped screen. Take a look at that and let us know what you find.

 

Here ? I see no screen. The gunk is non-ferrous, I can't really tell if it is aluminum or not.


Note old black O-ring.



No filter in here. Just a lil crud.

 

Yep, you're in the right place:




On my '84. I'm right in the middle of replacing the condenser:

 

Hmmm... Definitely not in there. A quick online search reveals no info. Does anyone know where to get this condenser outlet filter?

Are you using an aftermarket or OEM replacement? I hear the larger aftermarkets perform better w/ R134A, but don't fit quite right.

Also, I noticed some damage underneath my condenser...Does this look like a leak.?


The fins in the 12 o'clock position look punctured but no oil

 

Might be a job for NumberDummy! Hope I can reach him at the PartsCave...

Then again, maybe this filter was eliminated by 1986.


I just picked up a Spectra 7-4150. Looks to be a reasonable fit, but there's a tube that sticks out too far from the edge at the base of the passenger side. If I increase the bend of the lower brackets about 3/4" (should be easy), that will bring the bottom edge forward far enough for the offending tube to clear the radiator support. Too hot in the afternoon sun to get very involved right now, but I do plan to post a product report in the next few days.

 

If you follow the outlet of the compressor, it goes to the condensor in front of the radiator. If you think your compressor or one before it put junk in the system, the first place it hits is the condenser. It has to go all the way through the condensor before it makes it to the orifice screen you pulled out.

How much is a condenser? Since yours is damaged I would replace it. If you don't have the money and want to test it, I would plug one end with my finger or something, and put a rag and a air compressor on the other end and put some pressure on it and see if it leaks. I know compressed shop air is not good to put in a A/C system, but it's all I have and I have done it several times on different cars with no ill affects. When I do use compressed air I always put a vacuum on it and leave it several hours to a day to make sure it pulls a good vacuum and gets any moisture out that I may have introduced.

 

Kr, I'll be following your post!

Good point Dave. I will air check it tomorrow. I wonder if the P.O. took out the outlet filter due to it being clogged...

I have the opportunity to pull an allegedly good condenser from a '94 for $20.

 

If it will fit and hook up, the 94 should be sized for r134a. I believe that is the first year all vehicles went to r134a.

 

Any replacement Condenser sold today is R134a compatible. It may be true that a AC specifically designed for 134a will have some improvement over the R12 design, but I have not heard of anyone that could not get a good working AC system using a replacement Condenser sold as a replacement for the 80-86 models. Of course the fit is dependent on the company making the unit.


If the 94 model is a replacement and a direct fit, that is good to know. I would like to know what makes the 94 design better than the 80-86 design (more rows, bigger tubes, etc.)?

 

I am just going along with everyone else that say when the r134a came out, they made the condensors larger or more efficient by using some sort of different tube design. I agree, I have never had a problem using all the original r12 equipment with r134a and not getting enough cool air.

 

Shown as basic part number 19B958 in pic in post #4.

EOTZ-19B958-A .. A/C Receiver/Dryer Outlet Tube Filter / Obsolete

1980/89 F100/350.

MAPLES FORD in Warsaw MO has 2 = 660-438-5110.

MORLAN-SHELL FORD in West Plaines MO has 2 = 417-256-3195.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 5 = 800-543-4959.

 

Thank you sir!!

 

I've been wondering why that filter screen was placed at the condenser outlet. Wouldn't it have made more sense at the inlet, to catch any debris from the compressor, before clogging the condenser?

Or was crud created or concentrated by the cooling action of the condenser, and thus the outlet was the best location?

Discuss amongst yourselves...

 

That is great information. The filter could explain why I can't get my high and low pressures where I want them with either the red or blue orifice tube. Never knew there was a screen/filter there.