I just got my 2150 motorcraft rebuilt and have some questions, First the black cap that says lean on it is cracked is that my choke? I have a vaccum choke pull out i think its called, And does anyone know of a adaptor plate for this carb to go from the 2150 to a holley 4 brl port? And is there any diagram for hooking up the vaccum ports or does it really matter? Engine is a 300 six. Thanks

 

Yes that is the choke cap. You will need the CARB ASM TAG NO to source a correct replacement.

-CARB ADAPTER - 2V TO 4V-

 

It matters but it depends on application/modifications. About what year and are you retaining emission controls?

 

There is a tag I'll take a look, and it's going on a 85 bronco 300 six no emissions other than a cat. I'm new to carburetors so this is foreign to me.

 

Ok so vaccum lines are all hooked up on my carb its old enough i didnt see one for a egr or emissions other than EVAP. But what is this fitting on my choke? and can i swap this manual adjusting one for a electric one off another carb? Being its already cracked..

 

Click on URL below to read an explanation of the 2150-

Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor

Anything else, just ask...

 

Hmm alright so that is for a hot air tube..where should i hook that up too ? I have a Offenhauser c manifold and EFI exaust. I went ahead and swapped the old cap to the electric assist one, So i now need to run a wire (probably 14ga?) down to the S terminal on my alternator correct?

 

ID number marked on choke housing in pic in post #4: TB4

D1AZ-9848-B .. Choke Housing-Non Electric - Marked TB4 (Motorcraft CM-1455) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

 

There is (was) a full electric choke cap conversion kit for the 2100/2150/4100 carb. That would eliminate the need for a hot air source. Would that serve you better?

-Electric Choke Conversion Kit-

The OEM electric assist may not operate correctly w/o the hot air source. OEM is powered fron the ALT Stator. Follow instructions for kit. Use a relay under the hood if requires BAT VOLT to keep it out of cabin.

This is on a 4.9L carbureted?

Need photos if HI-PO'ed up...

 

yes it would simpler is always better this is going to be a woods rig so I'm making everything simple

 

If you decide to go the with the conversion kit, usually (I am only familiar with HOLLEY) the choke asm requires a fresh air source (go by their instructions) so as not to allow the choke spring to over heat and fail.

There are two methods-

Open Air Inlet (screened) And Filtered Air Inlet

 

Alright I'm considering just doing a manual choke these electric ones are too picky, any recommended conversion kits? Also vacuum line hook up what is the port on the back towards cab under the air filter and should there be a vacuum from manifold to the carb? I got it running but can't acheive smooth 650 idle only 1200 or above

 

It worked fine on mine but then again it doesn't get that cold here and the choke tends to stay closed a bit longer than it should. Wont have that problem any more for myself as I am doing a whole engine swap.