Interesting video, this stuff looks great. I see the date of this video is August 2016, it has been around a little while, any body tried it?


Here is a follow up video he made when the product was released.

 

I saw the video once before, but I haven't or don't know anyone that has tried it yet. But subscribing to see if anyone else has.

 

Looks like basically the same thing as Extend, made by Rustoleum. The rear fenders on my F-2 were so bad with deep pitted rust that if I vblasted them I'd have Swiss cheese so I wire brushed them with drill and got as much rust off as I could and then used Extend. It's been 25+ years and the gendered look as good as they did back then. I've used it on other projects in places that were hard to get to. I just loaded up the brush and got as much behind and between panels as I could.

 

I have used the Eastwood version for years. It does a good job and cleanup with water is easy. Just don't get it on metal that you don't want coated.

Eastwood Rust Converter | Rust Converters | Auto Rust Converter

 

Must you paint over this then?

 

Well there's something I need. Thanks for posting!

 

I don't remember if Extend has to be painted over, but like most of these types of products, they are vulnerable to direct UV from the sun and will turn gray.

 

Looks to be the same stuff as POR15?

 

No, PzoR-15 is a rust encapsulator, this is supposed to be a rust converter. POR-15 is a nasty black urethane project, this and profits like it aren't. Completely different product.

 

Yes, according to the Eastwood link.

 

I have been using a similar product called EXTEND RUST NEUTRALIZER by LOCTITE.
Directions say it does not need a top coat if 3 coats are applied. If you do top coat after the second coat of EXTEND the top coat has to be an oil based paint.

 

Bob is right, there is a difference between a rust convertor and a rust encapsulator. The convertor uses tannic acid to chemically "convert" the iron oxide. It also has a polymer that seals the converted metal. These are water based which makes it nice for cleanup but not so great from a durability standpoint. Most manufacturers recommend painting the "converted" metal to make it more durable.
The rust encapsulator seals out oxygen and water so that rust cannot grow/form. Products like POR15 and KBS Rust Seal are extremely durable and eliminate rust when applied as directed. I have used both, the convertor works but leaves a soft finish, the encapsulator leaves a rock hard finish and looks like powder coat. KBS has a kit that includes a degreaser, a rust convertor, and a sealer...when all three are used you will get a rock solid finish that will last for years. There is a drawback to POR15 and KBS in that they both will turn powdery with prolonged exposure to sunlight, a topcoat will resolve that issue. Here is a trailer that I built some time ago, the fenders were painted with KBS about a year prior to the frame. The difference in the finish is easily seen. Since this photo was taken I clearcoated the fenders and they still look like new.

 

I have used this converter with success, when a converter is called for.

 

I've used neither yet, converter or encapsulator. So which do you use when? I've got to do the inside of my fenders which feel like 36 grit when I run my hand across them and grains of rust fall off. I will take a wire wheel or flap disk or pressure washer and knock off the loose stuff but then what should I use to coat it?

 

Could you use one then the other