Interesting product for rust conversion, brush on and leave it.
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Looks like basically the same thing as Extend, made by Rustoleum. The rear fenders on my F-2 were so bad with deep pitted rust that if I vblasted them I'd have Swiss cheese so I wire brushed them with drill and got as much rust off as I could and then used Extend. It's been 25+ years and the gendered look as good as they did back then. I've used it on other projects in places that were hard to get to. I just loaded up the brush and got as much behind and between panels as I could.
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I have used the Eastwood version for years. It does a good job and cleanup with water is easy. Just don't get it on metal that you don't want coated.
Eastwood Rust Converter | Rust Converters | Auto Rust Converter
Eastwood Rust Converter | Rust Converters | Auto Rust Converter
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Bob is right, there is a difference between a rust convertor and a rust encapsulator. The convertor uses tannic acid to chemically "convert" the iron oxide. It also has a polymer that seals the converted metal. These are water based which makes it nice for cleanup but not so great from a durability standpoint. Most manufacturers recommend painting the "converted" metal to make it more durable.
The rust encapsulator seals out oxygen and water so that rust cannot grow/form. Products like POR15 and KBS Rust Seal are extremely durable and eliminate rust when applied as directed. I have used both, the convertor works but leaves a soft finish, the encapsulator leaves a rock hard finish and looks like powder coat. KBS has a kit that includes a degreaser, a rust convertor, and a sealer...when all three are used you will get a rock solid finish that will last for years. There is a drawback to POR15 and KBS in that they both will turn powdery with prolonged exposure to sunlight, a topcoat will resolve that issue. Here is a trailer that I built some time ago, the fenders were painted with KBS about a year prior to the frame. The difference in the finish is easily seen. Since this photo was taken I clearcoated the fenders and they still look like new.
The rust encapsulator seals out oxygen and water so that rust cannot grow/form. Products like POR15 and KBS Rust Seal are extremely durable and eliminate rust when applied as directed. I have used both, the convertor works but leaves a soft finish, the encapsulator leaves a rock hard finish and looks like powder coat. KBS has a kit that includes a degreaser, a rust convertor, and a sealer...when all three are used you will get a rock solid finish that will last for years. There is a drawback to POR15 and KBS in that they both will turn powdery with prolonged exposure to sunlight, a topcoat will resolve that issue. Here is a trailer that I built some time ago, the fenders were painted with KBS about a year prior to the frame. The difference in the finish is easily seen. Since this photo was taken I clearcoated the fenders and they still look like new.
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I've used neither yet, converter or encapsulator. So which do you use when? I've got to do the inside of my fenders which feel like 36 grit when I run my hand across them and grains of rust fall off. I will take a wire wheel or flap disk or pressure washer and knock off the loose stuff but then what should I use to coat it?