I've been trying to diagnose a crank no start problem on my 2004(later model w/ ICP sensor on valve cover) F350 6.0PS that I bought at an auction last year and am running low on options to try. I'm concentrating on why I can not get the engine sync(cam / crank sync) condition. Here's a summary of my situation.

185K miles (Ive put about a 1000 on it)
Automatic w/ 4wd
Batteries are New and Load test good.
Alternator is stock version but tests good(Advance Auto)

Current Codes:
P0113
P0603
P1000
plus three codes associated with disconnected FICM
(using Torque Pro on smart phone)

CMP Sensor
This is where I started. When the CNS problem occured I found the connector dangling disconnected from sensor. I reconnected put the problem persisted. I 've done the following:

• Replace connector (soldered splices)
• Replaced CMP sensor with NAPA part
• Verified harness continuity, polarity and load tested with headlamp.
• Verified that shield wire is not shorted to ground in harness and verified that shield is grounded in PCM
• Replaced again with Motorcraft part #
• Verified that the pin on the the camshaft is in good condition using boroscope.
• Verified camshaft is spinning.

CKP Sensor

• Verified harness continuity.
• 170 to 180 rpm while cranking per Torque Pro (RPM varies w/ battery strength)
• RPM needle on Dash doesn't move while cranking. (Normal?)
• Replaced sensor with NAPA unit.
• PCM does not throw a code when sensor is disconnected.

PCM and General Electrical

• Tried a used unit that was flashed for my vin#. No differences from original PCM.
• I usually reset the PCM for every iteration of testing.
• Also disconnect battery before disconnecting PCM connectors (or FICM)
• I've checked continuity on most of the engine circuits and found no shorts or breaks in the harness.
• Truck has a remote starter that works. I removed it completely and tried to start. Cranked w/ key but no change in sync condition.
• Checked every fuse in fusebox!
• Tried starting with shifter in neutral.
• Tried finding short in harness by wiggling wires while a helper cranked.

Oil System

• LPOP is providing 70psi at Pressure sensor port with mechanical gauge.
• In past was seeing pressure at dash drop out when idling but not consistantly. I replaced the sensor and the dash gauge indicates while cranking.
• LPOP Regulator spool has some scoring. No metal debris present that I could find.
• Drained oil and carefully looked for metal pieces and found none. Replaced oil w/14 Qts of fresh Rotella.
• Filter is aftermarket but does close the shutoff in the filter sump properly. I'll replace with Motorcraft.
• IPR removed and screen was pretty clean. No big chunks or buildup. (old style screen -will replace)
• ICP Voltage KOEO is .2V
• ICP Voltage Cranking 1.3V w/ IPR at 40% and 1200psi HPOP
• ICP Disconnected test -0V w/ IPR at 59% and 1100psi HPOP

Fuel System

• Updated regulator with the "blue spring" version.
• 50-55 PSI at testport on secondary filter.
• Drained water. Changed filters.
• Did a bubble test.
• Before I understood that the engine sync condition needed to be made before anything else happens I went down the FICM path for awhile. So since I was not getting FICM sync or voltage I put a new power board in the FICM. No change of course So I sent the FICM to FICM Repair and found out there was nothing wrong with it. Ed at FICM Repair got me straightened out to look at the engine sync issue first.
• Replaced all 8 glow plugs.
• Compression test resulted in all 8 cylinders pressurizing between 405 and 430.
• Replace EBP sensor and cleaned tube to manifold
• Cleaned and verified function of EGR valve.

If your still with me, thanks for reading my story! Any thoughts on what i should try next? The P0113 code is for the IAT sensor just behind the air filter with the MAF but can that effect engine sync? What are the inputs/conditions needed for engine sync beyond the CMP and CKP? I'm about out of ideas so any thoughts from this forum community would be greatly appreciated.

 

FWIW - great job in the troubleshooting so far!!

What is your v-reference voltage, KOEO and cranking?

Fuel pulse width when cranking? Typical FPW when cranking is 500 μ seconds or greater.
How about mass fuel desired?
Probably don't have these two w/ no sync, but just checking!

Did you try starting w/ IAT1 disconnected? P0113 could be caused by a broken/damaged Vref wire at the Mass air flow sensor, so look for a harness issue at this sensor. Have someone wiggle the MAF/IAT pigtail when cranking. Watch the MAF and IAT1 PIDS to see if the bounce around when cranking/wiggling. A v-ref issue might affect sync.

You said you checked all fuses in fusebox - was that in BOTH fuse boxes?

Reaching for straws: Any rain/water leaking into the cab from the windshield on the drivers side? Any degas puking recently - esp around the PCM?

I am wondering if your issue doesn't center around the CMP since that is where you first saw the problem, and the symptoms sort of match, but I am beginning to wonder about the CKP/circuit also (trying to recall if rpm signal in PCM and no dash gauge rpm is CMP related or CKP related - will check).

I know you have said you did the tests, but would like to just verify what tests you did and what the results were:

Please post these values for the CMP: Measure the resistance between the PCM engine connector pin 31, harness side and the CMP sensor pin 1, harness side; and between the PCM engine connector pin 43, harness side and the CMP sensor pin 2, harness side. Also, Using a multimeter that reads hertz check across both wires while cranking, you should see around 1.3 Hz. If you are within a couple of tenths of that reading then you are ok. Please post that result also.

Please post these values for the CKP
To troubleshoot the ckp sensor: check the resistance between the connector on the PCM Pin 30 (harness side) and Pin 41 (harness side). Resistance should be 300-400 ohms. btw - I hate NAPA sensors!

Do you still have an active EGR system? If so, when is the last time you pulled the EGR valve? In addition to black smoke and low power, a really badly plugged EGR valve can actually cause a no-start. Doesn't explain the no-sync, but just curious. The P0113 might be an issue separate from the crank-no-start and it could be the MAF sensor, plugged air filter, or even an EGR issue.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I went through your suggestions and here are the results in the order you stated them:

V-reference -KOEO is 5.05V
V-reference -Cranking is 5.2V
(I measured at EBP sensor connector)

I installed the FPW and Mass Fuel PIDs inTorque Pro. FPW did not change from 0 during cranking. The Mass Fuel Desired was 35 mg/stroke and increased slightly to 38 after cranking 5-10sec.

Ive tried starting w/ and w/o the IAT1 conected. P0113 persists. I checked continuity of the wiring and load tested everything except the ground to body(pin 3 BK/WH). One thing I noticed was that pin 1 (GY/RD) had continuity to ground through the PCM (pin 33 on the a connector SIG RTN) but pin 4 did not even though the schematic shows it going to pin 21 which is also SIG RTN on PCM. Harness appeared to be in good condition visually. I couldn't find the setup parameters for the MAF and IAT1 PIDs. Is there a good reference for these on the web somewhere?

I checked fuses in the central junction box under the dash and the FICM control power fuse in the auxillary relay box. Am I missing some?

I don't know of any degas puking and have not seen any leaks in the cab.

CMP resistance between pin 31 and 43 is 823 ohms. Resistance in wiring is .1 ohms for both positive and negative sides. I attempted a frequency reading by placing my probes across the 1 and 2 pins of the CMP connector(sensor disconnected) but did not register a reading while cranking. I will check my multimeter manual for proper setup and repeat test.

CKP resistance across pin 30 and 41 on PCM connector is 600 ohms. Kinda high according to your numbers. I'll order a Motorcraft part today.

I did remove and cleanup the EGR valve. I bench tested it and it seemed fine. Sooty but not too caked up. I hope to do a EGR delete on it someday.

Air Filter is new. I'll order a MAF sensor as well.

Thanks for the help. I'm anxious to get past this one even though its been a great crash course on the 6.0!

 

I am sorry for your troubles, but it has been a pleasure helping you troubleshoot! Your troubleshooting has been impressive.

That v-reference voltage looks OK.

I do think that you will be better off w/ the motorcraft CKP. I assume that the NAPA part is probably a BW, but I have seen a few posts questioning the quality (especially w/ the resistance reading you got).

Not sure what to think about the cam sensor tests. Another test that could be done on it is:

The CMP produces its own voltage output (AC) while the engine is cranking...you could put a meter to pins 31 and 43 of the J1-C2 PCM plug: center PCM connector (disconnect plug from PCM - PCM is mounted outboard of drivers side battery and has 3 plug connectors) and have someone crank the engine over and check for AC voltage output of cam sensor

 

The fact that you have mass fuel desired stumps me a little. I didn't think that you would have that without cam/crank sync.

Might be worth making sure you checked these under the hood:

Fuses 05 (50A IDM), 07 (30 A HFCM), 10 (10A PCM), 15 (15A IDM logic), 18 (10A IDM relay), and
Relays 302 (Relay HFCM), 304 (Relay FICM)

 

I found 220 mV potential across the CMP sensor while cranking. Sound normal? Is the frequency measurement you suggested across the pins of the sensor connector such that you're measuring a signal from the PCM? i.e sensor disconnected.

I'll check the Mass Fuel Desired PID again to make sure it is consistent. Is that value in the ball park? And I'll Check the Relays and fuses you mentioned. I know the FICM main relay is good. One thing I've wondered about is weather leaving the FICM off the truck as I have been doing while troubleshooting the engine sync issue is a good or bad practice.

Thanks again for the help Mark. I've been "practicing" this troubleshooting for a while on this job!

 

I don't know for sure, but I believe you should have the FICM installed for the sync troubleshooting. I am not sure about all of the "handshakes" required.

The frequency reading should be w/ the CMP installed and connected. Get the reading by back probing at the connector I believe.

The mass fuel desired sounds like it is in the right ballpark for cranking. The Ford value is 35 mg/stroke

 

Oh, and what I understand is anything over 0.1 v is good on the cam sensor AC voltage, so 220 mv should be good.

Edit - I just wanted to own up to the fact that I hate electrical issues and that it is definitely not my strong suit!
Hope someone else can jump in and correct me if I am off base on that!

One more edit - I found another source that states that the AC voltage should vary between .3v and 1 v when cranking. Might keep that in mind if we strike out on the other actions!

Also, when back probing, I use the wire piercing probes and tape the small hole when done. I think it helps prevent unintended shorts.

 

Brief troubleshooting update:

I repeated the voltage test on the the CMP sensor and found that the 220mV result is consitant. I did the same test on the CKP sensor and got 1.5V. My understanding is that the CMP and CKP are very similiar sensors so I thought the results may be similiar. But the differences in the way they are triggered as well as trigger frequency may explain the variance.

Checked the relays and fuses again. No issues.

I was looking for the PCM power diode. Is it embedded in the central J box?

I installed FICM but the only changes I saw were in the DTC's. P2552, U0105 and U0306 were replaced with P0611 and P1378.

I have new Motorcraft CKP and MAF sensors ordered and should arrive tomorrow. Also ordered new probes for my multimeter so I can back probe the connectors.

Also, FWIW, The MAP sensor hose was rotted and I changed it out a couple weeks back.

Thanks for listening.

 

Three more values to post if you would:
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower


KOEO and cranking.

 

KOEO

FVP 12V
FLP 0V
FMP 0V

While Cranking:

FVP 11.5V
FLP 0V
FMP 0V

When I first turn the key into the "on" position FLP starts out at 6V and fades to 0 quickly and the FMP starts at 35V and fades to 0 in a couple seconds. This has always seemed like an odd behavior.

 

Sorry to question you, but did you hear (or feel) the FICM connectors "click" when they went in?


Seems that you have an issue w/ the power supply to the FICM. I know that that is where you started (in post 1), but I guess I assumed that you re-installed the FICM when you got it back. Sorry for the misunderstanding.


I know you have checked it, but verify the FICM relay and the PCM connections. Make sure there are no bent pins. Closely inspect (for chafes) the main engine harness that goes to the FICM.

 

I'm a little suspicious of the middle FICM connector but it does seat well. The other two snap nicely.

And yes I did alot of troubleshooting after getting the FICM back from FICM Repair. I load tested the 12V Ignition to FICM wire (1044 WH/YE) and measured 12V at the FICM connector. Also verified 12V at hot side of FICM relay coil and the Main power contact.

My understanding of how the circuit works (after talking to Ed at FICM repair) is that the FICM relay will not energize if you don't have engine synch. So I have power to the FICM but no engine synch signal so the the coil of the relay won't energize. So FICM logic power and FICM main power will be zero if the relay won't energize. Am I missing something? I wish there was a ladder diagram showing the logic to help make more sense of it!

Also I'm not getting FICM sync which I believe happens when engine sync and ignition power are good. With FICM sync the relay won't be energized.

I've checked continuity on all the wiring between the PCM and FICM and the CAN Bus shield for shorts in the harness.

I'll plan to go through it all again after I try the new sensors tomorrow. Fun Fun Fun!

 

FICM sync does happen after engine sync.


I wasn't aware that the relay won't energize if there is no cam/crank sync.


I may be able to dig up a diagram, but hopefully Yahiko (Sean) is watching - I would bet he has it!


So I guess we are back to the cam and crank! Keep us informed!

 

This is all I have:
https://mid-atlanticema.org/wp-conte...Tech-Guide.pdf


To me, the info in this guide points more at the CKP (ie no sync and no dash rpm)