So I have a 1978 Ford F100 long bed that I picked up a few months ago for $300. It started to over heat the other day and was leaking water. Went to go replace the water pump and realized some of the bolts were stripped. One was in the timing cover and the other was in the block. A chunk of metal broke off the block. Really sucks. I really don't have the money to take it anywhere. I do have a wire feed welder, but I know it is a cast block. The engine is a 302 that I dated to 1985. This ever happen to anyone else?

 

No, that's a new one for me, but I've had a few water pump bolts break off in a couple of 302/5.0s. The trick is to put thread sealer on those bolts (like the factory did) which go through the timing cover, as they thread into coolant passages. They can also seize to the aluminum timing cover.
I've always been lucky and gotten the new water pumps to seal up good enough, and I removed those bolts after installing a new pump on my 5.0 in my Stang, and I coated them with thread sealer, so hopefully they'll come out again when need be.

Honestly, I would probably try just using some RTV around the broken bolt, and cross my fingers and reassemble. It will probably be OK, providing all of the other bolts will hold torque.

Does the engine vibrate? There's a chance that they used the truck's original flywheel, and if the engine is indeed an '85, then the balance spec would be different. If there's no vibration, I would probably look for a '96-'99-or-whenever Explorer 5.0 from a wrecking yard. It will work with your timing cover and intake manifold, and they are pretty powerful 302s! And with a good intake, 4V carb, and headers, you will really notice a difference.

 

Have you considered using a helicoil?

 

Thanks for your input. I may just try and reasemble and cross my fingers for now. Will definitely look into the 96-99 5.0!

 

That will not work in this case.

 

What I would try is clean the casting well , acetone works good, get a 2 part epoxy putty in stick form.Mix it very well then put a release agent on bolt threads (teflon tape will work) then put the bolt in place put the epoxy on around the the top(basically remaking the casting from the epoxy).Let it cure well unscrew the bolt and then put it back together.Don't over tighten the bolt when reassembling.

 

That's something to think about. Thanks.

I tried to braze it back on. My little map and oxogen torch is not big enough to get it hot enough. The brazing stuck to the little broken piece just fine, but it could not get the block hot enough.

 

I like the two part epoxy idea. Drill little dimples in the face of the break to increase the surface area and give it more strength

 

X3 on the epoxy. I would try to clamp the pieces together while the epoxy sets up, so you get a good tight bond

 

Got it done. I said the heck with it and welded it. Some say you can't, and some say it will be ok. Time will tell.

 

I recall a while back on Spike TV's Detroit Muscle or Muscle Car show (Same show, different names) where they welded the transmission bolt ear on a Ford 300 block.

Tommy Bosher used a stick welder with a welding rod spec I don't recall at the moment. Anyhow, it might be worth taking a look at in case your work above fails at some point.

Good luck to ya!

 

Thanks. They do make a stick rod just for cast iron. It's called 77 cast iron weld rod.

 

I have the exact same issue on my 1988, was curious if it held I known tris post is old but taking my chances

 

Check this thread...
Well... FML. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)
I welded my exhaust ear on, been holding FINE. You can indeed weld iron, I used an old exotic spool through my mig then flapped it down clean. Works like a champ.

 

I TIG'd an exhaust bolt ear back onto a 390 FE cylinder head. It worked out really well and looked good too. I used silicone/bronze filler rod. That would have worked here, but I think your welding job will hold just fine. Note, I said "TIG'd", not "TIG weld". Sillicone/bronze TIG is more akin to brazing, than welding. You don't actually melt the base metal, which makes it ideal for cast iron.