Center of Weight / Hoist
#2
I'm thinking that it could be calculated mathematically if you weigh your front axle and your back axle and knew exactly what the math was. You would also have to have your wheel base, which I believe is on your door sticker and can be obtained with a VIN search in the tool above. I also think that the math could be reverse engineered with some thought. i e if both axles weighed the same your center of gravity (CG) would be right in the middle of them. Make one axle heavier than the other and move the CG proportionately in that direction.
#3
Yes, the math is explained here: Balancing Safety - Two-Post Lift Loading - Center of Gravity - Two-Post Lift Balance
I was just hoping someone around here has already done it!
I was just hoping someone around here has already done it!
#5
#6
Surprisingly, you can use a bathroom scale to figure out each tire's weight on the ground. Do a front and a back, and you can follow the math you found online for the CG. It's actually the same principle, we did it all the time with track cars years ago.
You should lift the opposite side of the axle to keep it level, the board not so much as it so long. And it doesn't matter if the board bends, as long as it doesn't touch the ground. Use a small spacer block to make certain the weight of the board goes on the center of the scale. And I doubt you'd see anywhere near 4500 on the front axle, so the scale is safe. Just lower the truck gently onto the board.
And if your wife see what you're doing with her scale, well that's on you!
You should lift the opposite side of the axle to keep it level, the board not so much as it so long. And it doesn't matter if the board bends, as long as it doesn't touch the ground. Use a small spacer block to make certain the weight of the board goes on the center of the scale. And I doubt you'd see anywhere near 4500 on the front axle, so the scale is safe. Just lower the truck gently onto the board.
And if your wife see what you're doing with her scale, well that's on you!
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#8
I think you are over-thinking this. I get that you want to be safe. That's great. There is a place ( or places) in life for careful, precise, complex calculations. I don't think this is one of them. At least not for the end user. If you are the guy designing the lift, then yes, please check your math. But for the guy just lifting his truck up, well you're not launching the space shuttle here...
Position it with your best guess, then lift it up a couple of inches off the ground. Eyeball it and give the shake test. If it looks level, and seems "solid", then resume your elevator ride to the top. If something seems "off" then lower it back down and re-position.
Keep in mind, with the 7.3, unless the bed is packed with heavy stuff, the truck will be seriously nose heavy anyway, so I'm not sure you really can lift it too far forward. Well, in theory you could, but practically, I don't think you would be able to get the lift arms positioned that far ahead, while all 4 still have somewhere to grab.
If it does look nose heavy, no matter how you position it, then you could consider putting some extra weight / ballast in the bed, as long as you aren't exceed the weight capacity of the lift.
Position it with your best guess, then lift it up a couple of inches off the ground. Eyeball it and give the shake test. If it looks level, and seems "solid", then resume your elevator ride to the top. If something seems "off" then lower it back down and re-position.
Keep in mind, with the 7.3, unless the bed is packed with heavy stuff, the truck will be seriously nose heavy anyway, so I'm not sure you really can lift it too far forward. Well, in theory you could, but practically, I don't think you would be able to get the lift arms positioned that far ahead, while all 4 still have somewhere to grab.
If it does look nose heavy, no matter how you position it, then you could consider putting some extra weight / ballast in the bed, as long as you aren't exceed the weight capacity of the lift.
#9
I do like above with most cars. The 450 is a crewcab the front doors hit the hoist and I have to squeeze out that is how I know I'm in the "right" spot. Once it is up AND ON THE LOCKS it gets supports front and rear. I usually use the front mount for the front leaf springs and the hitch in the rear. Probably overkill but makes me feel better.
#10
#12
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
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Why not lift super duties?
#13
#15
Superdutys are nearly 70 pct cab forward weight. An *** lift with poor anchors will be strained to the max. It's just a call you have to make but IMHO, it's a huge gamble unless you put the anchor plates in deep and have specific hardened hardware anchoring them and what bag mix was poured and how deep the pour is.
Like I said, the 10k 4point lift we use still struggles and it is a top brand and well built.
Not being squeamish, but I do observe and enjoy your posts and pick up good tips. Hate to see that disappear. I guess I just err to caution.
Denny (highest regards)
Like I said, the 10k 4point lift we use still struggles and it is a top brand and well built.
Not being squeamish, but I do observe and enjoy your posts and pick up good tips. Hate to see that disappear. I guess I just err to caution.
Denny (highest regards)