Anybody notice anything out of the ordinary. I'm learning this truck. And how to diagnose it. Almost got it going. I just need to iron out these issues. Any and all advice would be appreciated. Also any advice on setup of Torque for the beast would be appreciated also.

 

 

It would help if you typed out all the codes. I copy and paste them into a spreadsheet search command - to pull up the comments/advice.

I can do it, but it is more work for me.

Also, tell us what is wrong - I assume it is a no-start. Any other issues?

What work has been done so far? What mods do you have?

You need to help us help you.

 

Trans temp is a little high I would think. And Batt voltage looks low.

 

I can type out the codes. No problem on that. I just thought it easier to screens hot. The truck is running right now. Just has a lot of codes on it. I don't know if you know the history of this truck from other threads. So here goes. Truck is a salvage truck. Totally submerged. Flooded. Some wiseguy on here dubbed it the yellow Submarine, it stuck. Lol. It is head studded, egr delete plate. No egr. 4" exhaust. Amarillo edition. All under carriage is rebuilt, except the rear different. It was checked out an resealed. Trying to make it a keeper. I got a pile of money in it, trying to finish it out. Almost there.

 

 

188? What's normal. And by the way thanks fellas for the help. I need to get this beast on the road.

 

#2 injector is toast.
Needs the EGR plugged in to run the fan, it could be bad even though you have it deleted. Still controls the fan.
You have water in the fuel, drain the pump.
188° on the trans is fine, 225° is high.

The wiseguy was me, I'm a retired submarine sailor.
Great name for a truck, your welcome!

 

How long of Drive did it take to get to that temp. I don't think I've ever seen that high not that it's in melt down but I'm lucky to see 165 on a good day. Maybe my thermostat in the trans is bad.

 

Could be. At that temp it's circulating fluid thru the cooler and filter.

 

There's a couple different TRANS TEMP pids on torque. There is one that reads high, I'm betting that's the one he's using.

 

Can you add ICP DESIRED?
Have you cleared all the codes since you got it to start with a clean slate for diagnostics? I think a lot of them codes are old.
Your hot idle shows a low ICP and a high IPR indicating a possible leak.
Here are readouts from my 05 6.0 which I consider healthy. Compare and ask away.
Also, do you have any drivability concerns or you just want a comparison in notes?

 

I agree, it is highly likely that some codes are old. Regarding the screenshots ... there are duplicates and overlaps in them.

Also there is no mention of the conditions when the data was taken (hot idle, fully saturated temps I assume). I guess I will eventually get on board.

The op stated that he almost has it going. Not sure what that means.

The data looks like it is idling (transmission, coolant and oil temps), but there is a lot missing that could help. Are these temperatures FULLY saturated (ie did they reach these values and then stabilize, or were they still climbing)? I assume that the screenshots of the data were of the same engine operating times even though they were in two different posts. I hate assuming though.

The EGR delete plate information certainly helps.

So - ignore the body codes, ignore the P0403 and P0405 EGR codes (except plugging the EGR in is good advice).

P0266 - The Cylinder 2 contribution code certainly might be a bad injector, but there are other things that can cause the code as well, ICP volts would be helpful (at cold idle, hot idle, and high idle), along with IPR % duty cycle. Fuel pressure is another piece of information that would be good to know. Does the upper fuel filter bowl fill quickly (KOEO)? Does it idle smoothly? You can always swap #2 injector into another slot and see if the code follows it.

 

An example of detailed information associated with codes:

P0460

Fuel level sensor A. Float arm in the tank, bad instrument cluster, you keep filling the tank up to the same level (customer fueling habits), or fuel pump module concern.

Fuel Level Sensor A circuit: TSB 06-13-11
Can be caused by the installation of aftermarket equipment such as remote starter systems and auxiliary fuel tanks.

Auxiliary fuel tanks that continuously replenish the vehicles main tank will cause a P0460. Customers that replenish the vehicles fuel tank from the auxiliary fuel tank while the key is on and engine is running, can set P0460.

The newest calibration will contain a revised strategy to eliminate the occurrence of a false P0460.

Not easy to say which of the above is your issue without more information.

P0069 - You have a MAP/Baro correlation code - post the individual values for MAP and Baro (and EBP) - KOEO.

P2269 - You may not have water in the fuel (but it certainly might). Since it was submerged at one time, the sensor and manifold plate could be rusted and the current fuel and WIF reservoir contents could be fine. Drain the reservoir into a glass jar and report back what you find. If there is no water, then try cleaning the reservoir by blowing WD40 or something similar in there and flushing it out (bend a straw, stick it in, and flush). If that doesn't clear it, we can post part numbers for the sensor and manifold cover (again - if needed).

I assume your fuel filters are new and in good shape?

 

Awesome. It is a fitting name. Lol