1999 Ford F250 Super Duty (rear ABS) with ALL stainless components. All hoses are braided stainless steel (even the rear lowers that go to the calipers), all lines are NiCopp. This is on rear wheel ABS system. I chose to go this route for strength, durability, and ease of install. When doing brake lines, this is the only way I’ll go for any vehicle. If someone asks me to do their brake line, and won’t pay the extra few dollars for NiCopp, I refuse to do the job. This truck has had a brake line replaced in its life with steel lines (I found a splice in a line, as well as a rotted out line with brake fluid still inside that dripped down my armpit…), so here I am again. Here in Ohio, the winters are intermediate but the roads are still salted. My condolences go out to those on the Northeast coast, and in Canada. I’m sure you have to replace brake lines every other brake job.

I believe in over-engineering, as this truck will be pulling trailers out in the middle of nowhere, including the Bible-Belt on Sundays. Imagine taking your Jeep offroad, getting in the truck, and having road debris cut a brake hose, and not having any parts stores open.

Total cost: ~$300
Taking this to a shop, you’ll pay probably 4-5 hours labor at $100 an hour, and about $300-400 in lines and hoses, price list. $300 for never touching brake lines again is worth it when you consider you’ll pay $700-900 for someone else to do this.
Front hoses and rear upper hose kit - KLM Performance ***I don’t recommend these***
Rear right lower hose - Russell 657350 (18")
Rear left lower hose - Russell 657300 (9")

I had a hell of a time finding rear lower hoses. In the end, I really didn't... I just used universal fit Russell hoses from Summit Racing for hot rodders. They are the correct length, the flare threads match, and the banjo bolt diameter is the same.

Looking back, I recommend NOT going this route. Summit Racing sells a complete Russell kit with all five hoses for the same price as the three hoses from KLM Performance. Also, I had a rather difficult experience with KLM. I ordered Sunday April 2, and they didn't ship until Wednesday April 12. That morning I tried to cancel the order but could not cancel it because these are custom made (understandable). They ended up paying the extra cost for expedited shipping for delivery on Friday April 14. Still not an ideal experience, but I appreciate companies that care about their customer service. Plus the hoses look rather twisted, as if they weren't made properly...

Russell stainless steel brake hose kit

The Russell kit brings the cost down to ~$230.

This job took 6 hours. I started to remove the bed to make things easier, but 3 bolts came out and the others were stuck. I ended up breaking the torx in one, and gave up. Really all that has to be done is get the truck on four jack stands, remove the wheels, remove the spare tire (not even there for me), and remove the left side battery and airbox. Then it’s straight brake lines and hoses from then on.

Special tools are a flare tool kit (I have one but you can rent from the auto part store) and flare nut wrenches. Aside from that, just sockets, wrenches, and pliers can get the job done. Make sure you have vise grips. My air hammer was needed for the rear brake hose clip, but I could have made due without.

Here are labeled diagrams, color coded, with all of the sizes of fittings. Make sure your truck has the same fitting sizes. This is rear wheel ABS with a master cylinder and hydraulic control unit (HCU). I think four wheel abs systems have a different layout of the lines.

***Each color of line is kept consistent throughout the diagrams.



Front lines:





Rear lines:









Front line, hose-to-hose, on front crossmember:



Under the hood:







The hardest part of this job was the rear line. It has to be fished between the fuel tank and frame, as well as it has the tightest bend. As shown in the last photo, it has to be bent nearly 180 degrees around in a tight space. THIS is where the NiCopp line is nice. You have to slide the fitting on, make the flare, slide the fitting onto the flare, and make the bend.

A tubing bender cannot be used at this bend, and steel line will be difficult to bend, PolyArmor will simply kink.

For bleeding the brakes, I usually start at the closest caliper to get the majority of the air out, then go to the furthest, and finish at the closest:
Left front, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Keep the brake pedal fully depressed (battery disconnected) while working and you won’t have to bleed the master.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Nice job JeepGuy and nice pictures. What is the HCU? Is that like a proportioning valve?

Also what did you use to make your flares?

 

I just replaced the rear steel lines and the hoses a couple of weeks ago on my '01. I used new Dorman hoses (left, right and center) from Rock Auto because, well, I'm cheap and, IMHO, they're good enough.

One point to emphasize (and one I missed prior to the work) is that the fitting for the tube that goes over the differential that connects to the block that's integral with the center hose is a larger size (7/16-24 over 3/16" tubing). I had to re-use the old fitting nut since I hadn't bought the assortment or the correct specific size.

One other thing I noted was that all the lines in the front were black and appeared to have absolutely no corrosion on any of them, so I left them alone.

I did have to replace the 1/4" line from the front to the rear last summer as it blew out in the parking lot at work. I had to get a ride home on a AAA flatbed that afternoon. Now I own my now double-flaring tool set and extra 1/4 and 3/16 ni-copp tubing.

 

I used a double flaring tool. I'd autozone rents one but I recommend having your own. Amazon sells some quality brands such as OTC and ATD (GearWrench). I actually found a single flaring tool in my dad's shed so I bought dies for it. It's quite simple to use, look it up on YouTube. I'll link the OTC kit and a South Main Auto video below.

OTC 4503 Stinger Double Flaring Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L7QZ0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eWCezbCPNFTVA

https://youtu.be/mPVaG9VhjVA

The HCU is the hydraulic control unit. You can think of it like a proportioning valve if you like. This is only on a rear wheel ABS system. Ford's 4 wheel ABS system works differently.

The function of ABS is to "pulse" the brakes. When it senses the brakes locking up, it will relieve pressure in the system and pulse the brakes. If you don't have ABS and your brakes lock up, you're supposed to pump the brakes.

​​​​​

 

Thanks for your input. Rubber hoses are good enough but I'm just a big fan of stainless steel hoses. I use them on my Jeep that I offroad with for obvious reasons. But this truck is essentially a tow rig and I tow in the Appalachian mountains. It's more peace of mind. The exhaust brake will come in handy for that...

Good choice with NiCopp. On the rear line, there is no other option. It rots out so easily. This truck has had three brake lines in 18 years.

 

Has anyone used/tried the Dorman complete stainless steel hard-line kits? $110.

i assume my 2002 7.3l has 4 wheel ABS as opposed to 2 wheel ABS? How can I find that info? Dorman asks that question.

My truck's brake hard-line next to the fuel tank just blew a hole. Bye bye brakes.

 

I had the same line break. I strongly recommend nicopp lines as opposed to stainless steel. I have not researched the corrosion properties of either material, and I've never had a stainless or nicopp line long enough for it to fail. However, I have had to redo steel brake lines after two years.

As for four wheel vs two wheel ABS, look at the axles. I'm rather familiar with the two wheel system. There should be a small module on top of the rear diff. This is an electromagnet that picks up ring gear movement. For four wheel systems (I've never worked with Ford four wheel systems), most systems should have tone rings on the axles with electromagnets.

Plugging your VIN into a VIN decoder will also tell you but it's not the most accurate. I'd suggest getting under and looking.

 

Thanks for responding my bro. The problem with the NICOPP lines is I need to flair them and frankly, after I got my *** kicked flairing brake lines on a Toyota, I swore I'de never ever EVER do it again.

Im VERY familiar with the wheel speed sensor on top of the diff. I though it was just for the speedo. I had my diff apart long time ago after it failed and the sensor was covered in metal shards. My speedo was bouncing up and down and the metal shards were the culprit. That diff was dead at 200k miles. But I digress.

So If I have a wheel speed sensor on the rear diff I have 4 wheel ABS?

 

I just spoke to the parts guy at local FORD and he said that if you have wheel speed sensors in the front (one to each front hub), then you have 4 wheel ABS. In my case I dont have power locking hubs so I have, a brake line and an electrical line to each front meaning 4 wheel ABS. If you only have a brake line or brake line and vacuum line for the hubs, then you have 2 wheel ABS.

 

Nicopp is wayyy easier to flare, if your memory consists of steel lines. Steel doesn't flare well and cracks if you aren't careful. I have both the cheap t handle flare tool and a hydraulic flaring tool. Both work great for nicopp.

Check your front axle for ABS tone rings near the outsides of the axle, just to be sure. I think most trucks are rear wheel (I think the factory service manual said that only the motor home version has four wheel ABS). Again, this is speculation. I don't have the manual in front of me. It covers this topic very well.

 

The parts guy at FORD took my VIN and verifief 4wheel ABS. If you habe wheel speed sensors in front, you have 4 wheel ABS.

Yes I have the simple, old fashioned brake line flair tool. I was flairing SS. Between figuring out which size lines, and which size fittings and then the bending and the flairing I promised myself never again. Remember, Im on my back, not under a lift.

The SS from Ford lasted 16 years. IF I can save time and headaches with prebent SS, Im all for it even if NiCu lines are more resistant to corrosion.

 

Keep in mind it's tight between the frame and fuel tank. I'm not sure if a prebent line will fit without removing the fuel tank or bed. I ended up leaving the old line in, taping the new line to the old, and pulling it through. There was actually another line in there, I'm on my third brake line...

 

I put on a new bed recently. I may be able to actually get those bed bolts out! I l slathered them in antisieze.

I assume doing this with the bed off would save me a lot of time yes?

 

My bolts are 4 years old and only 3/6 came out. I've never gotten around to welding a nut on it to wrench it out, so I wouldn't know if removing the bed would make it easier. The job honestly wasn't bad for me, I've had much more difficult brake line jobs

 

I guess Ill know when I get into it. Id sure rather not mess with the fuel-heavy fuel tank.