ok, I've a 70 F250 with 360. All stock except for a new 2bbl holley carb. I know the heads need work, the valve seals leak, pretty sure it needs valve work, machined, exhaust manifold bolt holes need work because a couple were drilled out or the bolts snapped off. Now I'm wondering..

Is it worth having a machine shop do the work vs just getting new heads?

If I go new what do I get? There are so many options. I'm assuming 390 heads should be the same as a 360?

Engine is going to stay pretty much stock, just probably add headers and upgraded ignition.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

stock engine
just rebuild the heads , don't forget the hardened valve seats !!

 

Hey blue76, I'm working on my 1972 truck as well with the 360 and have some of the same goals. Lets share info. Guys on this site are really great and have helped me out for sure! Share other links as well. I'll do the same.

My truck has a 4bbl card where you have a 2bbl. Other than that sould be the same.

I have read that the 360 and 390 are the same. For sure the block and I think heads are same as well. I'm going to find the numbers from heads today and look them up. I will have an answer soon to your question on the heads 360 vs 390. Look at your numbers from the heads as well, then do a search.

My truck already has the headers and dual ex.

Here's a tip for you... when you do the headers and dual exhaust look close at where the headers run and put heat shield or exhaust tape where needed. If you do Not take this step it might burn your speedo cable like mine was... I have read the headers and dual exhaust... a very good thing for the FE engines so do it, just saying to protect those key areas from the heat.

 

I found a set of D2 heads completely rebuilt with cj size valves for $600 on eBay. The guy gave me $50 for the old heads. Good deal and works well.

 

Or check with your local rebuilders. You might (still) be able to get reconditioned heads with exchange.

 

Just rebuild them. If you remove and install the heads yourself you'll save a lot in labor cost. If I just brought the heads to my machinist, it's 250 for disassembly, a hot tank, full valve job, decked/faced, pressure checked, spring rate checked, and assembled. That doesn't include the price for guides or seals (viton!) but that's not too much extra. Depends on what kind of number they come up with. If helicoiling the exhaust holes is higher than the cost of a set of cheap heads with good bolt holes then yeah, swap some different ones in with good threads/holes. IMO that's your deciding factor on whether to look for another set,,, as long as your machine shop isn't already charging $$$.
ANY lowriser head will bolt up just fine to everything you have. Doesn't matter if they came from a 360/390/428.

 

If you're not going to tow heavy trailers or drive it everyday, you can skip the hardened seats. Installing new seats should depend on how worn the original seats are, not for use with unleaded fuel. In an occasionally driven truck, you'll never wear them out burning unleaded fuel.

 

I totally disagree. My 428cj mustang gets maybe 2000 miles per year and at 58,000 miles I pulled they heads and it was none too soon to salvage the heads. Hardened valves is a necessity with today's fuel. Your engine, your money but "been there done that"

 

The D2 heads had induction hardened seats. No need to do anything to them unless they're so far gone they require new seats.

 

As far the broken bolts , you can weld a nut on the bolts , it will twist out , I have done it on my truck just be patient and rock them back and forth as twist

 

They were pho hardened seats. It needs the real thing.

 

In that case he may as well buy new aluminum heads. Once you add in the cost of installing new seats and guides, you're right there with new heads in cost. I learned that the hard way 30 years ago with a set of LR 427 heads. Were it mine and I wasn't going to drive it hard and frequently, I'd skip installing seats (if they didn't need replacing) and use a lead substitute in my fuel.

 

I used the lead substitute religiously. Not trying to argue, just telling personal experience.

 

I ran the GT390 out of my 67 Stang in a 70 F100 for several years in the 80's and it got fed nothing but unleaded with no additives. And no hardened seats. I never had anything negative happen in that time. And towed a small but heavy (had all my FE engine parts packed in it) from Louisiana to Utah and back running unleaded. it was runnin great when I sold it. Just sayin....................................

 

Following. I'm in just about the same situation. I pulled the intake manifold today. The intake gasket was pushed out into the valve cover (small part of it). Were yellow valve springs stock or has someone replaced the originals?