Newbie to here....
#1
Newbie to here....
Hello, I wanted to say Hi and ask a few questions about the truck I am acquiring.
With my new job (retired from law enforcement after 27 years) I go to farms and work on tractors in the Sacramento Valley in CA. I wish I was a millionaire as I see sooo many project cars and trucks just wasting away in the farm graveyard lines. I saw this gem rusting away and asked the farmer if he would sell it. It is a '58 F100, 292ci with a 4 speed. Body is straight (except for a dent in the hood), has easily repairable rust, and is complete except for tires, rims and tailgate.
My goal is to clean it up a little, repair the rust and clear coat it. I want to keep the original running gear, add an A/C, front disc brakes, lower it a few inches and add whitewalls on black steel rims. I want to keep it as original as possible and use after market parts only when necessary. I am a pretty good mechanic and can fabricate and want to end up with a truck with a Rat Rod look and feel. This will be a daily driver also.
Rather than just diving in and doing the learn from my mistakes, I thought I would seek out those that have already done that and can tell me what worked for them. I'll post a picture of what it looks like now and the look I am going for (a pic I found via Google).
Where it currently sits passenger side.
Where it currently sits driver's side.
The look I want to achieve.
With my new job (retired from law enforcement after 27 years) I go to farms and work on tractors in the Sacramento Valley in CA. I wish I was a millionaire as I see sooo many project cars and trucks just wasting away in the farm graveyard lines. I saw this gem rusting away and asked the farmer if he would sell it. It is a '58 F100, 292ci with a 4 speed. Body is straight (except for a dent in the hood), has easily repairable rust, and is complete except for tires, rims and tailgate.
My goal is to clean it up a little, repair the rust and clear coat it. I want to keep the original running gear, add an A/C, front disc brakes, lower it a few inches and add whitewalls on black steel rims. I want to keep it as original as possible and use after market parts only when necessary. I am a pretty good mechanic and can fabricate and want to end up with a truck with a Rat Rod look and feel. This will be a daily driver also.
Rather than just diving in and doing the learn from my mistakes, I thought I would seek out those that have already done that and can tell me what worked for them. I'll post a picture of what it looks like now and the look I am going for (a pic I found via Google).
Where it currently sits passenger side.
Where it currently sits driver's side.
The look I want to achieve.
#2
#3
Thanks Spurredon. This will be a very fun project. Maybe I should have been a little more specific. Not looking for shortcuts, just information on what others have done.
Has anyone encountered a direct or close fit from a later model truck to swap front drum brakes to disc? Dual master cylinder? Really like to do stuff this way vs aftermarket parts. Cheaper and I am more fulfilled. (I grew up poor so I am used to it....)
Has anyone turned the leaf spring onto the top/mount the axle on top to lower the truck? If so, how much did you get and what issued did you encounter with steering components and clearance?
I read somewhere (now I cant find it) that a later model Ford bench seat would be an almost direct fit (after drilling holes). Anyone with a suggestion?
The 292 looks complete. Is it worth a rebuild? I won't need a granny low so I am thinking about swapping out the rear gears to something lower so the granny is a good first gear and 4th will allow me to cruise at highway speeds. My concern is will I get enough HP out of the 292 to push a heavy truck will tall gears. If you have done this, what gears did you use?
I need to buy some used steel wheels and was wondering about the offset from different years. I want to achieve the look above with a set of 15" whitewalls. If I find a set off of a later F series, what years used the same offset?
Anyone here around the Woodland, CA area (95695)?
Thanks.....
Has anyone encountered a direct or close fit from a later model truck to swap front drum brakes to disc? Dual master cylinder? Really like to do stuff this way vs aftermarket parts. Cheaper and I am more fulfilled. (I grew up poor so I am used to it....)
Has anyone turned the leaf spring onto the top/mount the axle on top to lower the truck? If so, how much did you get and what issued did you encounter with steering components and clearance?
I read somewhere (now I cant find it) that a later model Ford bench seat would be an almost direct fit (after drilling holes). Anyone with a suggestion?
The 292 looks complete. Is it worth a rebuild? I won't need a granny low so I am thinking about swapping out the rear gears to something lower so the granny is a good first gear and 4th will allow me to cruise at highway speeds. My concern is will I get enough HP out of the 292 to push a heavy truck will tall gears. If you have done this, what gears did you use?
I need to buy some used steel wheels and was wondering about the offset from different years. I want to achieve the look above with a set of 15" whitewalls. If I find a set off of a later F series, what years used the same offset?
Anyone here around the Woodland, CA area (95695)?
Thanks.....
#4
One more post with questions.... Found most of the info on the data plate but still want the info on Trans code - F, Axle Code - 01, and Cert. Net HP - 153 4100 (153 HP at 4100?). Anyone have a link to decode these? I found plenty that decode the VIN but not the data plate completely.
Thanks
Thanks
#5
F = 4 speed Warner T98A transmission
01 rear axle 3.70
153 Horse power @ 4100 RPM
I think the 292 is well worth rebuilding, and you can build a little extra power into it.
Its nice to see a pretty complete truck to start on.
Many folks are still running the Y blocks. They are a solid workhorse, however they take a little more maintenance than the newer electronic engines. It really boils down to what you want and how you intend to use your truck.
Beware the "dark side" once you start changing a modifying, it becomes a slippery slope.
I like the look you are going for!
Good luck in your quest.
01 rear axle 3.70
153 Horse power @ 4100 RPM
I think the 292 is well worth rebuilding, and you can build a little extra power into it.
Its nice to see a pretty complete truck to start on.
Many folks are still running the Y blocks. They are a solid workhorse, however they take a little more maintenance than the newer electronic engines. It really boils down to what you want and how you intend to use your truck.
Beware the "dark side" once you start changing a modifying, it becomes a slippery slope.
I like the look you are going for!
Good luck in your quest.
#6
If you swap out to an auto trans a master cyl/booster assembly off of an 88 ish dodge f/s pickup is almost a direct bolt on fit
and seat out of a 88-98 gm c/k truck is a perfect fit for the cab... not to mention plentiful & cheap.
And no....., these trucks are not particularly heavy, if you plan on a daily driver no need to put big cubes under the hood, cuz inevitably, the price of gas [B][I]will[I][[B] go up again, I am currently running a 305 s/b in mine with an economy cam jetted down quadra jet and 700/R-4 o/d trans 3:50 rear 235/75/15's and am getting around 30 mpg on the highway and way more power than i will ever need or use. and mine is a panel body with a camper setup in the back.
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 M-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
and seat out of a 88-98 gm c/k truck is a perfect fit for the cab... not to mention plentiful & cheap.
And no....., these trucks are not particularly heavy, if you plan on a daily driver no need to put big cubes under the hood, cuz inevitably, the price of gas [B][I]will[I][[B] go up again, I am currently running a 305 s/b in mine with an economy cam jetted down quadra jet and 700/R-4 o/d trans 3:50 rear 235/75/15's and am getting around 30 mpg on the highway and way more power than i will ever need or use. and mine is a panel body with a camper setup in the back.
Mikie
near ottawa canada
58 M-100 panel & 64 econoline p/u
#7
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#8
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: La Verne, California
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Because FoMoCo used the same Brake Master Cylinder for several years of there trucks, this is supposed to work on our Orphan Years Trucks as well. Though when I do mine & add the Power Brake Assist, I'll be using one from the late '50s T-Birds. Which mounts under the Dash instead of being this ghastly ugly thing, that sticks out from the firewall & blocks access to important components when one wishes to do tune ups & the like.
#9
Great looking truck! Would love to see you get it back on the road. I'm going through a similar re-birth on my 1960. I would add that you should have a good understanding of a budget required. I've spent about $1,200 to get my truck running after years of sitting. And I used tires/wheels that I had lying around and the engine runs good without a rebuild. And I haven't gotten to the brakes yet as they work so far. So I'll be into my truck rebirth at least $1,500-$1,700 plus price of vehicle. So I'm guessing your rebuild budget will be in the $8-9k range maybe? I only bring it up because some years ago I got a free ranchero that cost me about $6k to get on the road. Could have bought one running for less. I love old Fords as much as anyone. I looked for a couple of years before I found the right candidate for a rebuild.
In any event, I would love to see that thing back on the road! I'm up the hill from you in Placerville.
In any event, I would love to see that thing back on the road! I'm up the hill from you in Placerville.
#10
Another option would be to pick up one running/driving and work on it while you enjoy it. Like say, this one.....
Ford F100 Shortbed Truck Runs Excellent
Ford F100 Shortbed Truck Runs Excellent
#11
That's not a bad looking truck, considering. It has potential. Welcome to FTE.
First thing to do is get the Ford Truck Shop manual for that year and study it, and make a plan. They have CD versions, but I still like paper manuals for the most part. Maybe one of each. The reproductions are about $45 or so, and worth it.
It makes sense to start from the dirty side on the ground and work on up from there. There are leaf spring suspension kits and spindle drops you can do, they come with disc brakes and the rest of it, not sure for that year but "probably".
You'll kind of have to map things out carefully because one decision in an area will affect so many others down the line and cannot easily be rectified once done. I'm not sure if later Ford front ends are a bolt up deal like they are on some years. Remember your truck has a straight axle, as Ford did not do away with on F100 till 1965
The 292 is a sweet motor, but you'll have to check it out carefully. Does it turn over with a wrench? Machine work and the like is getting expensive, and parts for anything other than a SBC can get spendy. On the other hand they are tough motors, if it is mechanically sound you'll get it running pretty easily. Many people claim they are among the very best sounding motors ever, especially with dual exhaust and glass packs or straight pipes. Thanks for signing up, thanks for the pics!
Ted
First thing to do is get the Ford Truck Shop manual for that year and study it, and make a plan. They have CD versions, but I still like paper manuals for the most part. Maybe one of each. The reproductions are about $45 or so, and worth it.
It makes sense to start from the dirty side on the ground and work on up from there. There are leaf spring suspension kits and spindle drops you can do, they come with disc brakes and the rest of it, not sure for that year but "probably".
You'll kind of have to map things out carefully because one decision in an area will affect so many others down the line and cannot easily be rectified once done. I'm not sure if later Ford front ends are a bolt up deal like they are on some years. Remember your truck has a straight axle, as Ford did not do away with on F100 till 1965
The 292 is a sweet motor, but you'll have to check it out carefully. Does it turn over with a wrench? Machine work and the like is getting expensive, and parts for anything other than a SBC can get spendy. On the other hand they are tough motors, if it is mechanically sound you'll get it running pretty easily. Many people claim they are among the very best sounding motors ever, especially with dual exhaust and glass packs or straight pipes. Thanks for signing up, thanks for the pics!
Ted
#12
Nice starter. Mine is the same color and I'd love to have that bed. The things one can do and the money spent can be endless, but like Ted said, make a plan, even if not very detailed. You may be surprised how decent these old trucks drive with a fully refurbished stock straight axle front end. The tires on mine wear a true as any vehicle I've owned. I wouldn't swap my y-block for any other in this truck! Keep us posted.
A small tip: Be very careful if you try to remove the hood ornament. No one reproduces that one that I know of. The mounting prongs are very easy to break and finding a good used one is really tough.
A small tip: Be very careful if you try to remove the hood ornament. No one reproduces that one that I know of. The mounting prongs are very easy to break and finding a good used one is really tough.
#13
Nice truck.
Keep us posted with lots of pictures please.
I just bought a 59 F100 short box step side big back window. I will try to get some pictures tonight. Just started collecting parts for it. I picked up a 351C for it as it already has a 351W in it and not a 292. If I remember right a 292 is the same as a 312.
Good luck with your build and hopefully you post a lot.
I just bought a 59 F100 short box step side big back window. I will try to get some pictures tonight. Just started collecting parts for it. I picked up a 351C for it as it already has a 351W in it and not a 292. If I remember right a 292 is the same as a 312.
Good luck with your build and hopefully you post a lot.
#14
Thanks for all the comments. Here is a link to my Facebook folder with the pics so far. It is public so you should be able to view it if you have a Facebook account.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=fc25fba436
It is now home and on jackstands. Since I last posted I learned the last registration expired in 1969. History is it was a farm truck and was sent to the graveyard for who knows what reason. Looking at the motor and seeing one of the rocker arms removed makes me think and internal engine issue. Once I pull it and tear it apart I will know more.
Anyway it took several hours to get the drums off. The brake shoes and drums had become one. Needless to say there will be nothing I can use except the front hubs. I am going to pressure wash it and scrub it good to get all the moss of and see what rust repair I have. I am then going to lower it. It will probably need to go at least 5 inches for the look I want. My goal is to keep it Ford and to buy as few aftermarket parts as possible. I am going to move the axles onto the top of the springs and play around with removing and reversing leafs to see what i will end up with. I will most likely need to notch the frame in the rear and I'm sure there will be some steering and linkage issues for me to deal with. Have done this a bunch so I am not too worried.
Does anyone know if there are any other year Ford straight axles that will have a lower spindle and help drop that way? Also, any later model 9" trucks or cars with the same brakes so I can try and find a donor? I saw one post that made me believe the brakes are the same up to the late 60's.
Here are a few pics and I'll post more as I get further into it.
Took a forklift and a backhoe to get it on the trailer. Wheel were locked up solid.
Keys were still in the ignition switch.
Bed has surface rust but is solid and all there.
After a lot of work, the brakes disintegrated and the drums came off.
Ready for pressure washing.
How cool is the radio?
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=fc25fba436
It is now home and on jackstands. Since I last posted I learned the last registration expired in 1969. History is it was a farm truck and was sent to the graveyard for who knows what reason. Looking at the motor and seeing one of the rocker arms removed makes me think and internal engine issue. Once I pull it and tear it apart I will know more.
Anyway it took several hours to get the drums off. The brake shoes and drums had become one. Needless to say there will be nothing I can use except the front hubs. I am going to pressure wash it and scrub it good to get all the moss of and see what rust repair I have. I am then going to lower it. It will probably need to go at least 5 inches for the look I want. My goal is to keep it Ford and to buy as few aftermarket parts as possible. I am going to move the axles onto the top of the springs and play around with removing and reversing leafs to see what i will end up with. I will most likely need to notch the frame in the rear and I'm sure there will be some steering and linkage issues for me to deal with. Have done this a bunch so I am not too worried.
Does anyone know if there are any other year Ford straight axles that will have a lower spindle and help drop that way? Also, any later model 9" trucks or cars with the same brakes so I can try and find a donor? I saw one post that made me believe the brakes are the same up to the late 60's.
Here are a few pics and I'll post more as I get further into it.
Took a forklift and a backhoe to get it on the trailer. Wheel were locked up solid.
Keys were still in the ignition switch.
Bed has surface rust but is solid and all there.
After a lot of work, the brakes disintegrated and the drums came off.
Ready for pressure washing.
How cool is the radio?