1999 F250 XL 6.8L V10 5spd 4wd CCLB 238,000 miles

recent upgrades: New Warn Hubs, New Hercules 285/75R16 tires, couple of rear mud flaps, lo-profile tonneau, Dee-zee tailgate assist, Kwik Gate tail gate step, replaced rear door that was dented, upgraded gray vinyl benches to tan cloth buckets in front and cloth bench in rear and seat center flip up. (10) new coil packs and plugs. Heater core, serpentine belt, and finally, 4wd transfer case motor.

truck has zero rust, pretty good for 16 years old and 240k!
runs and drives like a champ.

this is my 5th Super Duty, my 2nd v10.

 

i will post a pic on this, but i am missing my passenger side sway bar mounting bracket. So i am looking to just replace all those parts I figured.

 

It's the bolted-on part, right? If so, I'd just get it from a junkyard/pickapart place.

 

Thanks. That's what I wanted to hear. Just never had one missing like that before!

 

Update: built this for my bed lights, rear bumper lights, a 12v inverter I plan to install in the bed for the occasional power tool off the tailgate and a free line, Incase I want to add something like a rack light.

 

No relays?

 

I'm running an LEd light in my bed and a few accessory switches. I just researched it and I can add it in. Just had not thought about. Kind of assumed I'd need a relay for things like air pump, winch, or other big accessory. Here the link I read on it. Thanks. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/relays.html

 

He may be assuming you are getting power from some switched source in the existing harness instead of directly from the battery.

But even from the battery, you don't want to be running high-current draws through those switches, they aren't designed for it.

 

Agreed. After I read the article I linked above, I updated my plans.
I'm not here to say I know it all...that's why I shared these plans. And sure enough, someone smelled a stinker. Glad its prewired and not a problem to fix.

 

Ok, NO RELAYS!!!!! So that was an EPIC waste of time. I spent all day watching videos, thinking I missed something! NOPE. I do not need a relay.

My LEDs for my bed, 3w at 12v is about 10A, and my switch is rated for 16A plus its fused from a panel, 10ga wire from the battery and 16ga wire for the switch running to the lights.

My 55w Hella back up lights are 15A, and according to EVERYTHING I read, you need to be considering a relay when the draw is greater 200w. So, I am stuck. I don't think I need a relay here either.

Finally, my last 2 switches are for a power inverter for my bed and a 12v lead for my trailer. Again, neither are running large power, I have 10ga from the wire from the battery to the fuse panel I put in. I have the appropriate fuses for the items. NO RELAYS NECESSARY as I see it.

Please, while I really appreciate the advice given, next time offer a little more than "why no relays" when asking what my usage and needs were. I am not upset by any means, but it was a big waste of time to research all this stuff for this project when in fact I didn't need them. NOW THAT BEING SAID, I know how to use relays for future projects and WILL MAKE SURE I incorporate them where necessary! FWIW, If I am wrong here on my calc/reasoning, PLEASE Explain so I can make the corrections.

Thanks again guys. Looks like I am all set. I will post photos once I get it all installed and working this weekend.

 

Having blown halogen light bulbs in the past, I will always use relays, for high draw items.
In one case, when the rpm dropped, the bulbs blew.
Bulbs aren't cheap, relays are.

 

Ok. Fair enough but I am using these only as back up/rear lights. If I need a relay then how should I insert into this setup? I don't mind adding one, but I everything I've read said I don't need them for this project.
Btw, please don't take my sarcasm for criticism. Just having some jesting fun. I really do appreciate all the insight.

Hella halogen 4.75" rubberized lights cost $5.99 from fleabay
Relay was $6.75.

 

They take longer, but I decided to wire relays. I already had them. And decided it was $5 worth of insurance for each item.

 

So update time:

253,000 miles

powder coated the aluminum factory wheels tan and took the steel wheels off. Kept the black plastic center caps.

 

The wheels look pretty cool!