Oil pressure gauge says Zero?
#1
Oil pressure gauge says Zero?
Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
#3
#4
If its the one on the dash its not a oil gauge,its more like an oil switch! Have you noticed that it only displays two positions? It either shows "0" or it rests right in the middle.it only has to sense 7 lbs. Of pressure to turn on. Don't worry these trucks won't run without oil pressure. Sounds like a loose connection or a dirty oil regulator piston (front of motor next to crank). Pull the cover off to inspect it.
#5
I was/am having the same issue. Do you have any aftermarket gauges in your truck, specifically voltage?
Can you do me a favor and set your odometer to display the alternator voltage (odometer trick). I would be interested to see if your voltage is dropping when your gauge reads 0.
Josh
Can you do me a favor and set your odometer to display the alternator voltage (odometer trick). I would be interested to see if your voltage is dropping when your gauge reads 0.
Josh
#7
Have 2006 Ford Power stroke with 6.0 in it.. Just started doing this ... When Im driving the oil pressure gauge is fine and motor sound fine, but sometime when I come to a stop sign the oil gauge will drop all the way down to zero, the motor still runs fine and has plenty of oil in it. After I press on the fuel pedal to raise the RPMS just a couple the gauge goes back up. the odometer will all so blank out and it will flash "read gauges" when this occurs,, its driving me crazy and not sure where to start..
problem with the cluster. First thing would make sure that the plugs for
the cluster are plugged in and the locks are in place. Then it going to be a hunting
expedition for a broken/chaffing wire. Also check the condition of the wire plugs.
If you all will recall the 6.0 needs oil in the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) system that it gets
from the LPOP (Low Pressure Oil Pump). So if the engine is running there is good chance that
he has oil pressure in the LPOP system . The easy to check this would be an oil pressure gauge.
So check the cluster and go from there.
Sean
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#8
Easy way to check the idiot gauge is to ground out the sensor wire. The gauge, if working properly, should peg HI.
If it does nothing or barely anything the wiring is bad.
If it does show HI then the sender is at fault.
However, with the entire cluster acting up you have some bad connections either in the main connector or the dash circuit board.
Josh
If it does nothing or barely anything the wiring is bad.
If it does show HI then the sender is at fault.
However, with the entire cluster acting up you have some bad connections either in the main connector or the dash circuit board.
Josh
#10
x2.
Mine was soooo bad it would even come on occasionally at highway speeds!
The older dash has a "check gage" idiot light when the oil pressure goes
to 0.
On the newer dash with the message center it sounds like you get
a different message but that is probably all that is going on with your display.
The Oil Pressure switch is easy to get at, it's in the 11 o'clock position
looking DOWN onto your oil filter. It has only 1 wire and it's right
next to the oil feed tube to your turbo.!
Mine was soooo bad it would even come on occasionally at highway speeds!
The older dash has a "check gage" idiot light when the oil pressure goes
to 0.
On the newer dash with the message center it sounds like you get
a different message but that is probably all that is going on with your display.
The Oil Pressure switch is easy to get at, it's in the 11 o'clock position
looking DOWN onto your oil filter. It has only 1 wire and it's right
next to the oil feed tube to your turbo.!
#11
Low oil pressure pegs to zero
I am having exactly the same problem, except that my odometer does not blank out. My mechanic says it is a problem with the low-pressure oil pump, and that I should get rid of the truck because it's a 10-hr pull just to get to the pump. He says he replaced the oil pressure sender, and that was not it. Well, at least he billed me for it. I have no idea how to track down a problem with the instrument cluster, and I'm not sure that's it. I can check for a loose wire at the switch but that's about it. Before I take it somewhere else I want to be sure there are alternative explanations.
BTW at the same time this happened I started to have problems with stalling right after startup. The same mechanic checked the codes and diagnosed the problem as a malfunctioning fuel injection control module (FICM), the repair for which cost me over $1,000.
2004 F-350 6.0 with 137K
BTW at the same time this happened I started to have problems with stalling right after startup. The same mechanic checked the codes and diagnosed the problem as a malfunctioning fuel injection control module (FICM), the repair for which cost me over $1,000.
2004 F-350 6.0 with 137K
Last edited by sgsibob; 02-12-2013 at 10:12 PM. Reason: add text
#12
#13
I am having exactly the same problem, except that my odometer does not blank out. My mechanic says it is a problem with the low-pressure oil pump, and that I should get rid of the truck because it's a 10-hr pull just to get to the pump. He says he replaced the oil pressure sender, and that was not it. Well, at least he billed me for it. I have no idea how to track down a problem with the instrument cluster, and I'm not sure that's it. I can check for a loose wire at the switch but that's about it. Before I take it somewhere else I want to be sure there are alternative explanations.
BTW at the same time this happened I started to have problems with stalling right after startup. The same mechanic checked the codes and diagnosed the problem as a malfunctioning fuel injection control module (FICM), the repair for which cost me over $1,000.
2004 F-350 6.0 with 137K
BTW at the same time this happened I started to have problems with stalling right after startup. The same mechanic checked the codes and diagnosed the problem as a malfunctioning fuel injection control module (FICM), the repair for which cost me over $1,000.
2004 F-350 6.0 with 137K
#14
It would be pretty easy to take the oil pressure switch out and install a test gauge. It's completely possible for the oil pump to have failed, but not very likely. Usually oil pumps fail when they pump a ton of trash, said trash coming from the bearings as the engine implodes. You tend to notice when things like bearings fail.
Brian
Brian
#15
I just started having the same problem. When the truck starts I get a oil temp reading immediately, but then suddenly it drops to zero and the check gauge light comes on.
I am about to head out and get a few parts to check this.
1- Oil Pressure Switch - cheap and will eliminate that as the problem.
2- Oil and filter - I always use Fords filter and Rotella
Questions:
1- If I was to get a test pressure gauge which one should I get?
2- To use the test pressure gauge I guess I just pull the switch and connect it there?
3- Fal-308-Win says: Sounds like a loose connection or a dirty oil regulator piston (front of motor next to crank). Pull the cover off to inspect it.
Not sure where this is anyone have a picture or diagram. I have searched the net but no luck.
Just 2 weeks ago I had a Powerstoke shop do an EGR delete, FICM, and new oil cooler. Geez I hope they did it right as they are 300 miles from here.
I am about to head out and get a few parts to check this.
1- Oil Pressure Switch - cheap and will eliminate that as the problem.
2- Oil and filter - I always use Fords filter and Rotella
Questions:
1- If I was to get a test pressure gauge which one should I get?
2- To use the test pressure gauge I guess I just pull the switch and connect it there?
3- Fal-308-Win says: Sounds like a loose connection or a dirty oil regulator piston (front of motor next to crank). Pull the cover off to inspect it.
Not sure where this is anyone have a picture or diagram. I have searched the net but no luck.
Just 2 weeks ago I had a Powerstoke shop do an EGR delete, FICM, and new oil cooler. Geez I hope they did it right as they are 300 miles from here.