Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Transmission Guides
- How to Change Transmission Fluid
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Transmission Guides
C6 Transmission Fluid Change
#1
C6 Transmission Fluid Change
Friends,
I'm planning on doing a transmission fluid change on my 71 Ranger w/C6. The one Quikie Lube place in town won't do it, because they feel the F Type fluid would screw up their machine (by the way - is Type FA actually the same thing?). So, I plan on doing it myself, and wanna do it right using the Type F.
I spoke to the head honcho at the Quikie Lube place, and he said that even if I pulled the pan, I'd only get out about 2 quarts of transmission fluid out. Then, he recommended something I've never heard of.....
He said to do somewhat of a "power flush" on your own, take off one of the transmission cooling lines that go up to the radiator (gotta pick the right one). Then start the engine. It will pump out the transmission fluid, and in the meantime, you can be pouring it back in with a long spout through where the dipstick is. Thereby, you are sorta doing your own power flush of the system.
No need to pull the pan, and replace the gasket & filter. He said that the filter really doesn't need replacing, anyway.
Anybody else ever heard of this, or tried it?
Thanks,
Bob
I'm planning on doing a transmission fluid change on my 71 Ranger w/C6. The one Quikie Lube place in town won't do it, because they feel the F Type fluid would screw up their machine (by the way - is Type FA actually the same thing?). So, I plan on doing it myself, and wanna do it right using the Type F.
I spoke to the head honcho at the Quikie Lube place, and he said that even if I pulled the pan, I'd only get out about 2 quarts of transmission fluid out. Then, he recommended something I've never heard of.....
He said to do somewhat of a "power flush" on your own, take off one of the transmission cooling lines that go up to the radiator (gotta pick the right one). Then start the engine. It will pump out the transmission fluid, and in the meantime, you can be pouring it back in with a long spout through where the dipstick is. Thereby, you are sorta doing your own power flush of the system.
No need to pull the pan, and replace the gasket & filter. He said that the filter really doesn't need replacing, anyway.
Anybody else ever heard of this, or tried it?
Thanks,
Bob
#3
#4
If changing all the ATF including the torque converter, approx. 13 quarts of ATF will be required.
#5
Thanks Guys,
This is one that I have been definitely planning on doing myself. I already priced the filter & gasket, and it's really cheap. I'll have to look into the deal about draining the thing completely - I think I'd rather do that, and just start out with all new 12.75 quarts of Type F in there. This truck has been around awhile - and the first thing I did with it was change the oil/oil filter. Knowing that the transmission has been completely serviced will make me feel better.
Is there a schematic, or tech tip that shows how to get to the drain plug on the converter? Or, can somebody just point me in the right direction? I ought to be able to find a drain plug if I look hard enough.
Lastly, is Type F the same regardless of where it comes from. Advance auto Parts sells it for $4.99. WalMart has it for $3.58. Is it most likely the same quality?
Thanks!
Bob
This is one that I have been definitely planning on doing myself. I already priced the filter & gasket, and it's really cheap. I'll have to look into the deal about draining the thing completely - I think I'd rather do that, and just start out with all new 12.75 quarts of Type F in there. This truck has been around awhile - and the first thing I did with it was change the oil/oil filter. Knowing that the transmission has been completely serviced will make me feel better.
Is there a schematic, or tech tip that shows how to get to the drain plug on the converter? Or, can somebody just point me in the right direction? I ought to be able to find a drain plug if I look hard enough.
Lastly, is Type F the same regardless of where it comes from. Advance auto Parts sells it for $4.99. WalMart has it for $3.58. Is it most likely the same quality?
Thanks!
Bob
#6
IMO, buying fluids/oils from WalMart is kind of iffy, unless they have a product from a company that I know I can trust/something I've used often in the past. If it's some knock-off, cheapo looking crap, I wouldn't use it. I've never used anything cheap like that though, so I don't know if it's the same quality.
#7
To drain the torque convertor simply remove the dust cover from the bottom of the bell housing, then have a friend bump the starter over till you see a drain plug (not while you're under there of course).Be sure to bump it till it's at the very bottom to get all the fluid out.
If you can't get a helper, simply rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket till you get the plug at the six o'clock position.I think the plug is 3/8s but it's been a while so don't hold me to it. If at all possible, remove the pan and convertor plug and let them drain over night to get as much as possible to drain out. Good Luck,Calvin
If you can't get a helper, simply rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket till you get the plug at the six o'clock position.I think the plug is 3/8s but it's been a while so don't hold me to it. If at all possible, remove the pan and convertor plug and let them drain over night to get as much as possible to drain out. Good Luck,Calvin
Trending Topics
#8
To drain the torque convertor simply remove the dust cover from the bottom of the bell housing, then have a friend bump the starter over till you see a drain plug (not while you're under there of course).Be sure to bump it till it's at the very bottom to get all the fluid out.
If you can't get a helper, simply rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket till you get the plug at the six o'clock position.I think the plug is 3/8s but it's been a while so don't hold me to it. If at all possible, remove the pan and convertor plug and let them drain over night to get as much as possible to drain out. Good Luck,Calvin
If you can't get a helper, simply rotate the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket till you get the plug at the six o'clock position.I think the plug is 3/8s but it's been a while so don't hold me to it. If at all possible, remove the pan and convertor plug and let them drain over night to get as much as possible to drain out. Good Luck,Calvin
Bob
#9
#12
Advance matches prices so get the Walmart price and bring it to Advance. You can print out the price from the web site. I assume they're both the store brands, Super Tech and Advance brand. I use the Walmart brand oils in all my stuff for much less than others, including 2 stroke oil in my boats, and never had an oil related failure.
#14
I have done the DIY power flush on my Daily driver Kia . Never thought about doing it on the truck as it has a removable Pan .
to tell pressure line , when cold start engine . touch the trans lines going to radiator the one that gets hot first is the line you want . i marked mine with a stripe of paint for future reference .
You will need a big pan (tall ) as fluid comes pretty quick and have someone sit in car ready to turn off as soon as fluid stops flowing .
I then drop pan to get rest of fluid out (plug on Kia it has no pan)
to tell pressure line , when cold start engine . touch the trans lines going to radiator the one that gets hot first is the line you want . i marked mine with a stripe of paint for future reference .
You will need a big pan (tall ) as fluid comes pretty quick and have someone sit in car ready to turn off as soon as fluid stops flowing .
I then drop pan to get rest of fluid out (plug on Kia it has no pan)