The vaseline trick has always worked for me!!

It even worked when I was rebuilding a (cough) Dodge motor.

 

well, the oil pump drive does not move!!! I removed the oil pump and had my wife crank it over and the drive does not rotate. I think its time for a real mechanic to take over. Any last suggestions other than dynomite?

 

Scottie,read my above post again about "bench" bleeding a master cylinder.The theory is the same for the oil pump;"bench" prime it,as he said he did.And,you see another person knows about the "vaseline" trick! Stick around;you'll learn something from us old farts!

 

hi, the drive for the oil pump is the shaft that runs down from the cam synonizer. you have a new cam cover to use as a replacement so its all in the same area. i am not sure if the shaft is an easy purchase but its worth a try. some one here will be able to help.
if you picked up the loss of pressure quickly the engine should be ok. good luck bokker.

 

hi did you get any result, bokker.

 

Just finished rebuilding a 97 4.2. The oil pump drive is indeed driven off the camshaft (sensor) syncronizer shaft which may be removed from the engine by first removing the EGR pipe & getting a heater hose out off the way. IF the oil pump drive shaft is still attached/retrievable therough the hole,the sensor is held in place by two screws & may be removed without any problem. The syncronizer assembly is held down by 1 bolt & large washer (much like a distributor). Note position of electrical connector (and the sensor vane at the top of the shaft) so the new shaft can be meshed with the cam gear to end up in the same direction. Note that the Cam sensor is only used to time fuel injection. #1 cylinder should be at TDC on compression stroke for above installation (tool available also to ensure correct syncronizer installation).
Haynes manual indicates oil pump prime procedure as: remove all sparkplugs, disconnect ignition coil and fuel pump (kill switch located behind passenger side kick panel) & turn engine until fuel pressure is indicated on gauge or idiot oil light goes out (noting this is for an engine rebuild & oil pressure should build quicker in an engine that hasn't been apart/cleaned).
Hope this is timely & helps
Cheers
Flagbagger

 

Hi everyone.
I am getting my 02 back today, with a diagnosis that the camshaft gear is toast, that drives the cam sync and oil pump.
I am not buying it, because if that were true, would I not lose my fuel/spark timing? I am thinking it's the cam sync to intermediate shaft.
Does Anyone have an illustration for how it goes together?
I have this pic, but do the gear teeth get machined into the cam?
Thanks for any insight.

 

If you don't agree with the opinion/cause, then by all means get a second opinion.

 

Spark timing is deived from the crank sensor. The engine is capable of running without the cam synchronizer.

 

Does the oil pressure relief install from the front of the cover or the rear?